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  1. #11
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Bethlehem PA, USA

    Default Re: The Army of Frederick the Great-regarding New Hope Designs figures

    Quote Originally Posted by Oberstinhaber View Post
    Re: New Hope Design/ Osprey Men at Arms. 7YW Prussians

    A little while ago I decided to paint up one of each pose of the NHD Prussian Infantry. For variety, I selected one from each of the 3 regiments represented ( ie IR Nr 6, IR Nr 15 and IR Nr 40)

    Recently, I reached the stage where I was just about finished, and I would "dry- fit" the arms. I wasn't having mush luck with doing that, as some of the arms didn't seem to accord with my ideas of what "Make Ready" and "Attack March" looked like. No illustrations with the kits. Last night I remembered that there was an illustration in the catalogue.

    So I printed that off this morning and went out to the workbench. Well, "Attention" works OK, but "Make Ready" as illustrated, bears no resemblance to the kit (pose, and arm positions) I can just make the arms hold the musket in a "Port Arms" type pose. There is no way I can get the "Attack March" figure to work at all.

    Has anyone else encountered this problem, and, is there a solution (other than scratch building a new set of arms!)

    On a positive note, I liked the figures, crisp casting, good detail. I have put them beside Hecker & Goros, Realmodel, and Puchala figures and they are compatible.

    Happy Modelling,

    I haven't had quite the same trouble as you ran into, but you're probably in the right track.

    First, with New Hope Designs figures, as with any kit figures, I test-fit, which you also do. This isn't particular to our part of the hobby, either; it's a general step, whether in scale modeling, model railroading, carpentry, etc. It's akin to "Measure twice, cut once". Anyway, test-fitting can reveal problem areas, as you've found.

    The next step is assembly. I prefer to pin the joins on these kits, or on Imrie-Risley kits, even though those have small lugs for arms to fit into the shoulders, for example. I am more confident with a good pin to strengthen a join, as opposed to a simple butt-join. For shoulder joins, I drill all the way through the arm and into the shoulder. I use wire salvaged from Chinese takeout containers for this. It's a good gauge, it's as strong as brass rod, and it's free, or rather, I'd just throw it out, otherwise.

    As far as glue goes, I prefer to use 2-part epoxy for the major joins. It is stronger than CA glue (ie, super glue), particularly in providing shear strength perpendicular or at other angles to the join. I currently use a 15-minute epoxy, which gives me plenty of time to make adjustments while it cures. But I will switch to a faster-curing formula, when I use up what I have. Whether you use epoxy or CA glue, it has an additional benefit of filling any gaps in that join.

    Once the join has cured, I'll grind or file down the ends of any pins that protrude (usually this is just on the shoulder joins). If anything needs filling, I often reach for my sculpting putties-Milliput, or Aves Apoxie Sculpt. You can use whatever you want.

    Then I move on to priming.

    Now, to your specific problem of the arms' pose, you could try repositioning them to the desired pose. It might be as simple as making a couple of cuts placed strategically to allow you to bend them, or as complex as cutting them apart and then reattaching them and pinning them with wire, to get the desired pose. Fill any cuts or gaps as described above. This is the same technique for repositioning plastic figures, by the way; it's just that the materials and adhesives are different.

    If you can't use the kit parts at all, then yeah, you'll need to find a substitute or scratchbuild one. But I think you can modify the kit part sufficiently to be used.

    Hope that helps!

    Brad James
    Bethlehem PA

    "The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen"
    Likes: (2) johnnybach (01-13-2018),Oberstinhaber (01-13-2018)

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