polystone break repair (1 Viewer)

[billy1]

I ran across an article summarizing repair of different plastics. I cut out a section on polystone. Here it is:

Repairing polystone breaks Repairing broken arms or legs.
If the break is a clean one it will be an easier task to complete. Make sure both surfaces are clean from dust by brushing them with your soft brush. Then use a toothpick to apply the super glue to both surfaces. Wait a few seconds and then realign the broken parts. You may have to support the appendage until the glue dries depending on the weight of the broken piece. If you find that the break was not clean and that now there is a slight gap in places between the two pieces, you can take a toothpick and work a bit of two-part plumbers/epoxy putty into the crack making sure that you are smoothing it down with a dampened paintbrush into the existing detail. This is important; as you will not be able to sand the area once it is dry. Be careful that you use the bondo only on the exact area of the crack, as the bond will mar the good portions of the surface it is applied to. Allow the bondo to dry overnight and use your paints to retouch the small area and blend it into the existing paint color.

 

[steel wheels]

I own the sandbagged K&C sherman tank. One day I accidently dropped the Patton figure on a hard floor. and the legs broke off. I almost had a stroke! I simply reglued and touched it up, and you would never know, unless you took a good hard look. The tough think with these limited sets, is you can't buy the figures seperately, so if they break, you either fix them, or buy a new set which is very costly.

 

[sceic2]

I have become very fustrated with my inability to handle many pieces in my collection without causing some sort of damage. I am constantly glueing on bayonets and various weapons parts. Bent gun barrels and trenching tools are the most common. I try not to handle my stuff but when I do, its a fricken nightmare for me. I try to keep everything in perfect condition but find that I have become very proficient at super glueing and using my drill to insert metal pins to add support to the broken section.

I find that using metal pins of some kind to reinforce the parts when super glueing them is important. A small hole drilled on both pieces and then gluing seems to reduce rebreaks. Remember that super glue is not very viscus and will run every where and leave a glossy shine.

I broke one of the gun-trainers seats on the Britains 88mm gun set. They made them of very frigile and thin metal rods. So, I just cut them off to the base and removed them from the bottom of the seat, I then drilled a small pilot hole, enlarged the hole to fit a finishing nail cut to size, reglued all back together and painted it grey. Now if I could just figure out how to make those **** napoleonic bayonets stronger.

 

[Harrytheheid]

I have become very fustrated with my inability to handle many pieces in my collection without causing some sort of damage. I am constantly glueing on bayonets and various weapons parts. Bent gun barrels and trenching tools are the most common. I try not to handle my stuff but when I do, its a fricken nightmare for me. I try to keep everything in perfect condition but find that I have become very proficient at super glueing and using my drill to insert metal pins to add support to the broken section.

I find that using metal pins of some kind to reinforce the parts when super glueing them is important. A small hole drilled on both pieces and then gluing seems to reduce rebreaks. Remember that super glue is not very viscus and will run every where and leave a glossy shine.

I broke one of the gun-trainers seats on the Britains 88mm gun set. They made them of very frigile and thin metal rods. So, I just cut them off to the base and removed them from the bottom of the seat, I then drilled a small pilot hole, enlarged the hole to fit a finishing nail cut to size, reglued all back together and painted it grey. Now if I could just figure out how to make those **** napoleonic bayonets stronger.

I've experienced the same problems guys. I've found that superglue gel works better than the normal stuff and cos it takes a bit longer to set, it allows you time to ensure perfect alignment.
Cheers
H

 

[OzDigger]

I've experienced the same problems guys. I've found that superglue gel works better than the normal stuff and cos it takes a bit longer to set, it allows you time to ensure perfect alignment.
Cheers
H

I can recommend Superglue Gel because it's ideal for glueing absorbent materials like polystone as well as non absorbent materials like pewter.

 

[maddadicus]

I also use an industrial wood putty as a filler. Since I have been able to match most of K/C's colors, I usually do not find major repairs too daunting and am not afraid to extensively sand down and paint, if needed...I usually like buying K/C wrecks from a hobby store for a steep discount and fixing it as new, for my personal collection....Michael

 

[billy1]

(also posted in another thread) I received this reply from Super Glue in response to my inquiry regarding the appropriate Super Glue product to use in the repair of polyethylene-derived products.

Dear Bill,
Plastic Fuse, 15104, may be the best product for your application. It is a two part gel glue and activator adhesive that bonds to polyethylene. It can be purchased at True Value stores.
Regards,
Jennifer Barclay
Jennifer Barclay
Super Glue Corporation
9420 Santa Anita Avenue
Rancho Cucamonga, CA 91730
Tel: (909) 728-4255/Fax: (909) 728-4355
www.supergluecorp.com
click to enlarge Plastic-Fuse®



This advanced formula plastic adhesive solution works on most plastics, even plastics used for most kids’ toys. One of few recommended products for use with polyethylene and polypropylene based materials.

Item # 15104
Click for MSD sheet
Click for PD sheetWorks best for:• All Plastics including polypropylene & polyethylene

• Toys
• Equipment
• Furniture
• House wares