I just received my Dick Rossi P40 (1 Viewer)

Louis Badolato

Louis Badolato

Lieutenant General
Joined
Apr 25, 2005
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17,462
Rick,

I just received my Dick Rossi autographed P40 Curtis Hawk, and I just wanted to saw thank you. The plane and the pilot are excellent and will fit right in with my collection of K&C Warbirds. Above all else, the fact that it is autographed by Dick Rossi, in combination with the lovely hard cover folder containing the letter from Mr. Rossi and the certificate from your dad, make this a truly special addition to my collection. I am going upstairs to set this plane next to my K&C P40 (#68, with a sliding canopy and detailed cockpit).

Thank you again,

Louis
 
What's the plane made of and how does it compare it to the K & C warbirds. Since I probably won't be getting any more warbirds, this might be the next best thing.
 
Louis Badolato said:
Rick,

I just received my Dick Rossi autographed P40 Curtis Hawk, and I just wanted to saw thank you. The plane and the pilot are excellent and will fit right in with my collection of K&C Warbirds. Above all else, the fact that it is autographed by Dick Rossi, in combination with the lovely hard cover folder containing the letter from Mr. Rossi and the certificate from your dad, make this a truly special addition to my collection. I am going upstairs to set this plane next to my K&C P40 (#68, with a sliding canopy and detailed cockpit).

Thank you again,

Louis
Click to expand...

Dear Louis,

I am happy you are pleased with our limited editon Rossi's P-40, this was a very special project for us (for my Dad). Thank you for your support!

Rick
RWFigarti
 
I was looking at the canopy here on Treefrog. Does it slide open or fixed in place?
 
I've never tried to slide the canopy, as I think the arm of the Rossi Figure would be in the way.
 
Louis,

You said that you were going put the plane next to your K & C planes. Now that you did, how you do you think it compares?
 
They don't really mix well. Both are excellent, but there is a difference in the materials used and weathering of the paintjobs on the aircraft that gives them a very different appearance.

I think that the upcoming K&C aircraft, which are supposed to have a matt, weathered finish, as well as clear canopies and cockpit details, will probably mix better with Figarti's efforts.
 
I assume, then, that this is something closer to K & C polystone planes than the wooden warbirds. I'd like to get one but would like to see it in person.
 
Cheers Squadron Members. Here is my recently required Figarti Signed P-40 coupled with a GMP Pacific Diorama Kit. The figures are a match of Figarti (Pilot); Frontline; King & Country and the GMP smaller 1/35 figures. The Figarti P-40 is a true work of art and is also quite delicate. I am proud to have it in my collection. The GMP diorama kit is stunning and was very well packaged complete with the wood base. They also make 1/35 aircraft which are really closer to 1/32 that absolutely blow Corgi out of the water. Let me know if you want more information on them. Enjoy.

Beaufighter
 
Here are some other views of the Figarti P-40 Diorama. Please excuse the sub-par photography but I had trouble scaling the images down to fit.

Check Six,
Beaufighter
 
Please, please, please help me:eek: I need some serious help:p I have started to stare longingly at 1/32 Corgi, and FOV and 21st Century and Figarti aircraft with lust in my eyes. I need help:p I can't start another venue in this hobby, I will completely run out room if I start using fishing line and hanging them from all over my ceilings:cool:
 
What better use for all that dead air space?:p

Unfortunately I can't help you with any of these items. I'm all out of Dick Rossi planes except for one that is smashed to bits. The question is, now that you've switched to a Napoleonic diorama which side gets the planes?
 
Shannon Reuss said:
What better use for all that dead air space?:p

Unfortunately I can't help you with any of these items. I'm all out of Dick Rossi planes except for one that is smashed to bits. The question is, now that you've switched to a Napoleonic diorama which side gets the planes?
Click to expand...

Obious, the French. They need all the help they can get (as usual):D :D :eek: And Brad, don't have a kaaniption fit. It's just a joke:cool:
 
Mon dieu, mon dieu! :D

Michael, a couple of months ago, Hobby Bunker had a couple of the Rossi planes. You might want to check with them. I saw one of these and frankly it didn't do much for me. The resin has a funny feel to it. In my view, they have nothing on the K & C polystone planes, which I think were better made.

BTW, if you do start to become interested in planes, and buy some mahogany ones, I'd be leery of hanging them from fishlines as this can put a lot of stress on the wood unless adequately supported.
 
I've had some of those mahogany planes from the Phillipines. They look great, at first, then they dryout and crack in really bad ways. I purchased about 10 of them in 1977 from the Navy Exchange when I was in Subic Bay, PI. I have become very leary of wooden models. Ya never know if they used cured wood or not.
 
I know that does happen. However, I've been fortunate with the ones that I have. They're in perfect condition.
 
Hi Michael:

The same exact thing happened to ALL of my wood aircraft despite utilizing stuff to help preserve the wood. In the end, I sold off all of my wood aircraft with the exception of some wartime trenchart versions which of course I kept! Ironically, they help up better than the modern day Phillipine wood versions. That is why I like the K&C polystone versions as well as the 1/32 Corgi & GMP aircraft. The 1/32 Corgi Mosquitoes are fantastic & you can pick them up at a fraction of the retail price on eBay via a U.S. seller. The GMP aircraft (P-40 & P-51 Mustang versions) are detailed beyond belief. In short, quite addicting but well worth it. As mentioned before, the Figarti P-40 is still a spectacular model which was well researched! Best of luck!

Check Six,
Beaufighter
 
Hi Brad:

At first I just dusted with a soft cloth. Keep in mind that all of the models were always kept in rooms with temperature control so there were no dramatic temperature swings. Ironically, most of the damage was done while I lived on the California coast in contrast to Arizona. Anyway, once the cracking started I called some furniture craftsman & asked their advice. I experimented on some wood scraps to make certain the finish would not be harmed & tried linseed oil & eventually a wood paste/wax. The short term effect seemed ok but in the long run the wood continued to further crack. In the end, I did not come up with a working solution-I think what matters the most is the type & actual quality of the wood and or how it was prepped. Listed below is part of an article I had saved when researching my "save the wooden warbirds" campaign. Maybe it will help & I hope this posting might have done the same for someone else...

It was once thought that furniture needed to be "fed" with various mixtures of oils and other materials to keep it from drying out. These mixtures enhance the appearance of wood temporarily, but ultimately do not keep wood from drying out. No amount of oil will prevent furniture from drying out if the RH remains below 30% for a period of time. A better approach would be to keep furniture in a stable environment. Furniture oils are not recommended for maintenance as many of them contain linseed oil or other drying oils, and when used repeatedly will create a gummy, insoluble surface coating that darkens and obscures the grain of the wood. Other furniture polishes contain non-drying oils such as lemon oil and although they do not harden or darken, they nevertheless attract and entrap dirt and grime. Silicone polishes are also not recommended as they leave a film that is difficult to remove and can interfere with future finish treatments.

The best maintenance for clear varnished furniture is a coating of good paste wax. Wax is a very stable material that does not change chemically over time and provides protection from moisture and airborne pollutants. Good quality paste wax is available in most hardware stores. A thin coat applied following the directions on the can is all that is needed, no more than once a year. It may not be appropriate to wax furniture that is gilded, painted or lacquered, or furniture that has unstable veneers or flaking finish. Consult a conservator if any question about the appropriateness of waxing arises.

Once a protective coat of wax has been applied, dry dusting with a soft cloth is recommended for routine cleaning. Dust and dirt are harmful to finished surfaces and should be regularly removed as they can scratch or otherwise damage polished surfaces. A soft cotton cloth or artist’s brush is best for dusting.

Best of Luck!
 
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