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Nice figures, nice subject, great paint finish.

Great looking displays from various members combined in one thread, very cool :cool:

Now I am happy to clean them all up, prime and paint them. I will try to give every figure a different paintsheme, hemet actually. When finished I will post a photo of it. In case you are interested on how this figure struck my attention and how it came to be, have a look here...

I found a few nice patterns of German WW1 M16/M17 steel helmets showing the medic´s red cross symbol - can´t load them up all. Found some nice Austrian helmet samples as well.

Much better now. The laws of Optics are playing with this picture a little, but believe me they are all nice proportioned and equal to each other. None of them had to suffer. Still on the cat walk, ten all together. Better to have more Stabsärzte rather than only one Stabsarzt.

Much better now. See the effect of the additional vent in the resulting casting. You need a pressure pot to achieve this result as gravity on its own is a much too weak force to do this job.

Use a brass pipe and sharpen the edges on one and. Than poke a hole into the rubber from the inside out. Not a very sharp picture but you can sport the little rubber spagetti that the brass pipe created.

Finished to cast the figure. Use clear shot glasses to measure equal amounts of Part A and Part B. Poor both into a paper cup. Paper cups are best for this job as they can handle the heat generated by the kicking resin best. Furthermore you can form a simple pouring funnel by just squeezing...

Finished the casting of this figurine. I just have posted more pictures about this recent casting project here: https://forum.treefrogtreasures.com/threads/a-bid-of-sculpting-casting-and-a-little-magic.41237/page-5 I will post a picture of the painted figurine once it is done

I agree with Brad as far as a smaller scale is concerned. Sorry, but I can not recognize who actually made them but could it not be that these where made by Tradition of Scandinavia (Sweden)?

I have seen a couple of photos showing the swastika being worn on the outside of the overcoat. --------------------------------- Interesting I never have. But that does not matter anyway, nor does the thick or thin "issue", in reference to #5.

Who had that brilliant idea to put a swastika armband on the civilian coat? After 1933 armbands showing the swastika where worn to certain uniforms only. Not by the Geheime Staatspolizei who, still as part of the police apparatus, where considered to be civilians. Calling this thread...

As the model is made truly in the old school manner using litographed sheet metal it is understandable why. The process of lithography or silk screen printing on metal - in such moderate numbers - is dirty expensive. Yet, it does look like a very nice future birthday present to myself.

I always liked the Tradition figurines albeit the constant shifting of scale within their ranges. The prices are a bit steep but at least they offer unpainted castings as well. Yet Brexit does help to make ordering "from the continent" even more unattractive. Marching back 150 years "Buy German...

I love the the model of the church in #2 and the overall impression it creates. Made of tin-plate in Gauge 0 by a german company I persume? Glossy figures demand glossy buildings, resulting IMO in a much more harmonic appearance. Pity that there are not many around these days.

..... There are figures from other brands for those subjects, but it would be nice to have them from the same hand as the rest of the series. Very very true, not to speak about those wonderful and colourful militia and free corps formation. Wolfgang

One single rubber band will be enough to secure the mould during the following casting process. Casting resin can become very messy indeed. To retain domestic peace sit the finished mould, secured by its envelope and the rubber band(s) into a dissposible vessel of any sort. Remember it has...

Form an envelope out of the two pieces of cardoard and combine both halves with tape. Secure the tape with an extra horizontal strip. Now I got all I need to assemble the mould.

Finished cutting the mould apart. The most upper section of the mould remains intact. This will provide for a perfect lock of the mould. There is no better way to produce a two part mould as to cut a block mould. Have a look at the inside of the mould again, it did pay to laquer the figure...

Start cutting open the mould beginning at the top next to the pouring funnel Cutting very slow and gentle milimeter by milimeter trying to hit the ideal parting-line of the mould