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"9th Battalion" www.toyboxarmy.com

The plume should be blue and white, I'll fix it.. www.toyboxarmy.com

http://www.britishpathe.com/record.php?id=50242 This site has tons of awesome video from yesteryear...happy hunting{sm4}

6th Eritrea Battalion of Italian Colonial Army, ca. 1940 and German Seebataillon of Boxer Rebellion. Hope you like :) http://www.ebay.com/sch/mytoyboxarmy/m.html?_trksid=p4340.l2562 www.toyboxarmy.com

Very cool.

www.toyboxarmy.com

I use two reference books for zouaves, "Don Troiani's Civil War: Zouaves, Chasseurs, Special Branches & Officers", and Osprey Elite Series #62 "American Civil War Zouaves". This figure is modeled on a skeleton I made a long time ago, just now utilizing it. I will probably do some more zouaves...

I love the colorful zouave uniforms of the early Civil War, the first toy soldier that ever really caught my eye was a zouave I picked up about 15 years ago. At that time I had no idea that anything other than blue and gray was ever worn. Public school system at work :) www.toyboxarmy.com

91st Highlander of Zulu War, and New Orleans Gray Alamo Defender: www.toyboxarmy.com

hi Naps, I use Mold Star 15: http://www.smooth-on.com/a76/A-New-'Beginner'-Silicone---Mold-Star%3D-15/article_info.html It is a very simple 1:1 mix by volume, no scales needed. From there I add my own iron oxide powder just to give more heat resistance to the mold. It isn't cheap, as you can...

Thanks guys. I just love makin' 'em {sm4}

Well, this ride has come to an end. I never promised perfection, only completion {sm2} The first pic is what is left of my originals after extracting them from their molds. Then the completed figure. Thanks for following along everyone. www.toyboxarmy.com

Si, Senor, it can be done! (okay, true confessions...it took me four pours, some tiny air vent cuts, and tilting the mold while pouring it).

Oh yeah, I would LOVE to have the set up these manufacturers have! And you are right about weapons and all that. I do the same thing with my skeleton figures basically. If I ever make a gun worth copying, you'd better believe I'll mold it separately! {sm2}

I'm assuming they do the separate little castings because they use spin-casting, and the rubber they use is probably much harder than this stuff which necessitates pieces fit easily into a two part mold for easy extraction (lay flat in some way). So far I've been pretty amazed at what I can get...

Next I see a man about a horse. Same process as before, notice I build a pretty substantial frame with Play-doh around the horse. You really only need about 1/2" of silicon around the model, so there is no sense in wasting all that rubber. Also, with a four leggy creature, it becomes very...

Time to remove those sprues from his feet..."Hold still soldier, my eyesight ain't what it used to be"...Then it is a matter of filing and sanding. Sometimes I use a Dremel, but mostly some little files and wire brushes. Then some primer. I use gray, white, black, whatever I have enough of at...

Next, time to find out if this is going to work...pour the metal, and if all goes well, the metal should be visible in the hole I'm pouring in, and come out the one I'm using for air flow. Let it cool about 15 minutes, open 'er up, and have a look-see. What you don't see here is my first pour...

At this point I actually start getting anxious to pour it and see if my mold is going to cooperate with my mind. I clean off the lubricant, then put baby powder over the mold, supposedly this aids the flow of metal. Then I put the mold back together, put mold boards along each side and wrap...

Okay, here goes nothin'...Free your mold from the makeshift box, then carefully pull it apart. I sometimes use a black marker along the edge of the first half to better know where to start pulling them, but I forgot on this one obviously. Once it is apart, remove your original. Then I clean...