Basecoating metal castings (2 Viewers)

[Wolfgang]

Hello,

just played around with some of my paints to gain back some practice in painting. I realized studying some of the intersting threads here at the forum on painting (aaah can't get enough of those!!!!) that quite a few of you use the grey automotive sprayprimer. Well it never really worked for me, must have gotten the wrong brands, what I used was either ending up as a shiny grey basecoat that peeled off at some occassions or -even when keeping the right spraying distance between nozzle and figure- a too rough almost textured surface. OK that was with my beloved 75mm Elastolins but I doubt that the results would have been any different in 54 mm. I than came back to the ancient Plaka "school" paints - if you had grown up in germany you surely would know these actually really good "casein" posterpaints. The where around long before acyllics became widely available. German Zinnfiguren collectors and painters swear on a white Plaka basecoat for their figures. Still this did not make my day since the white pigments in the paint soaked up a lot of the later applied paint. Irregular basecoat (difficult to avoid with most paints) resulted in a irregular basecoat - somehow.
Then I gave GESSO a try, that is the stuff artists prime their canvasas with. A very thik and heavy paint, almost a paste. Well the secret is to dilute it with a good portion of (god dont know the correct english word so I call it "battery"-water and some drops of acrylic fluid improver. Cover your figure twice with a thin coat. Looks rather odd once dried (which takes quite some time - at best overnight) but you will love it. This basecoat really got teeth which will hold your paint in place and help tu ensure an even coverage. Remember Primer ist not your first coat of colour but your base (canvas) to paint on - no need for your troops to look like pieces of chalk - it is the "gripping" effect of the Gesso-mix that will make painting a success. The dull silver whitmetal may (must) very well be visible through such a thinly applied coat. Have not tried it with Humbrol Gloss yet but when acryllics "swimm" happily and evenly on such a coat so will Humbrol.

You should get Gesso everywhere at the local arts dealer shop. Price should be within the 10 € range - ah whereever you may live. One pot (?) will last a collecters lifetime. As for the "B-water" check your local GAS-STATION. If you can' t get the flow improver - or if you are an professional pennysafer -at your art shop, use a drop (YES JUST ONE!) of dishwashing-liquid (.. is that correct???) ... anyway give it a try

regards

Wolfgang

 

[Wraith]

Wolfgang,

Thanks for the tips. I keep hearing of gesso for a number of different applications, but have never used it, so I will look out for it. The battery water is distilled water here in the UK.
Re the auto primer, I can only guess that the primers in Sweeden use a different paint mix. All of the ones I've used have been dead flat and have gripped to the figure like a vice.

Cheers
Simon

 

[Njja]

I am certainly not in the ballpark with some of our Forum painters but I have

used a laquer spray primer that worked quite well. It dryed in minutes, and

the laquer base once cured had no adverse effect on the paint applied.

Problem is the shop I purchased my supply (1/2 dozen cans) is out of

business. I should dig out a can and see if it is still available on the net.

Njja

 

[Wolfgang]

Wolfgang,

Thanks for the tips. I keep hearing of gesso for a number of different applications, but have never used it, so I will look out for it. The battery water is distilled water here in the UK. AAAAAh, yes
Re the auto primer, I can only guess that the primers in Sweeden use a different paint mix.Yes that must be the case somehow but I also had bad luck with a german product ... All of the ones I've used have been dead flat and have gripped to the figure like a vice.



Cheers
Simon

Thank you Simon, I will try my luck again on my next trip home.
rgds
Wolfgang

 

[Wolfgang]

I am certainly not in the ballpark with some of our Forum painters but I have

used a laquer spray primer that worked quite well. It dryed in minutes, and

the laquer base once cured had no adverse effect on the paint applied.

Problem is the shop I purchased my supply (1/2 dozen cans) is out of

business. I should dig out a can and see if it is still available on the net.

Njja

One reason for my bad luck so far could be the switch to more and more water based products among paint industries products I have been told.
I will keep on experimenting anyhow
rged
Wolfgang

 

[Njja]

I will try and dig out that primer, to see if it is still available. It was made

specially for toy soldiers I believe.

Njja

 

[kilted vampire]

Games workshop primer is tops. Does not obscure detail. The particles are very fine as they were designed to be used on very small miniatures. 28mm.

 

[Wolfgang]

Games workshop primer is tops. Does not obscure detail. The particles are very fine as they were designed to be used on very small miniatures. 28mm.

Sounds good, I can get a hold of it where I am living now, thank you !!!!

Regards
Wolfgang

 

[aujj65]

This is the grey primer that I use on my metal castings. £4 and goes a long way, also gives a smooth and even matt finish which is dry within a few minutes although I leave it for a couple of days (allows for the smell to disappear).

Jeff

 

[Njja]

Uh ohhhhhhh I for got this is an International Forum!

I don't think thats available at my local "Pep Boys"

Njja

PS 4L whats that at our current exchange rate about $28

 

[theBaron]

Holy cow, that's $8, more or less! Even Rust-oleum isn't that much!

I use WalMart's store brand, costs something like 98 cents, and is actually finer-grained than Rust-oleum's or Krylon's primers. I use both the dark and light gray versions, depending on the colors to go over the figures.

 

[thebritfarmer]

Holy cow, that's $8, more or less! Even Rust-oleum isn't that much!

I use WalMart's store brand, costs something like 98 cents, and is actually finer-grained than Rust-oleum's or Krylon's primers. I use both the dark and light gray versions, depending on the colors to go over the figures.

Maybe but having a heart attack will cost you much much less

 

[aujj65]

It's £4 or $8 for a 500ml can and will cover approx 200 figures, so I wouldn't call that expensive.

Jeff

 

[Njja]

Jeff:

Actually thats not to bad, I just needed some spray paint to cover a couple
of plywood bases. I was suprised most of the sprays were $5+ at Home Depot
which usually is fairly inexpensive.

Prices are on the rise!

Njja

 

[theBaron]

I still think $8 or $9 is a bit high for a can of spray paint. The generics, like WalMart's, are a dollar. I do concede that I don't prime 200 figures with one can, though.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Njja]

Brad:

Reguarding the $1 paint....... Sometimes you get what you pay for!

Last piece of plywood I used under diorama I sprayed with $1 spray!

What a mess! It raised the grain, had to be sanded smooth, came off

in sheets and in general took twice the time to complete.

Recently I did two more sheets 20" X 20" this time with a custom quart of

Behr interior satin $9 and rolled 3 coats on each side & edges. It went on

beautiful, no raised grain, no sanding, it was ready for use the 2nd day.

Njja

 

[theBaron]

Oh, absolutely, I agree with you, I'm not advocating lowest price at any cost. But I've found the generic or off-brand at WalMart to be pretty good, especially compared to the brands made for use with metal (like Rust-oleum, Krylon). And even those were about $5 a can.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Njja]

I agree! My problem is I am very picky, and not real patient! I like to use

5/8" plywood for stability under my dioramas. It also makes them easier to

move around and more stable. I usually use black or a nice green paint to

give them a more finished look.

Once I start the project I usually can't wait to put it in place.....so spray is

usually my first choice, I must admit I usually get a much smoother finish

with a nice rolled surface. I usually set it up in my shop where I can roll a

coat then do something else for an hour or two then apply another. It

usually takes a day or two, but I have always been happy with the results.

Njja