Best glues (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Spitfrnd
- Start date
fishead19690
Command Sergeant Major
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- Nov 3, 2005
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Zap-A-Gap!!!! Great stuff for both metals and plastics. I,ve assembled a ton of casting kits with this glue and never had any problems. I also use this on my plastic conversion work and to fix just about anything around the house also. $7 bucks gets you a bottle that seams to last forever.
theBaron
Major
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- Mar 27, 2008
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I use both fast-acting CA glue (like fishead19690's Zap-a-Gap) and a 2-part epoxy, which is probably the same thing that Jeff is talking about. Both have their advantages and specific uses.
I've settled on Hobbytown's own brand for both.
Fast-acting CA (the C is "cyano-", I forget the "A", is it "acetate"?) often is used in conjunction with an accelerator. Zap-a-Gap has one. You flow the glue onto the area to be glued, then spray a quick shot of the accelerator, which contains a catalyst that speeds up the drying time. Though most fast-acting glues dry in seconds, anyway (mind your fingers!)
2-part epoxies consist of a glue and a catalyst, which you must mix, usually in equal parts. They set in about 5 minutes, and take longer to cure to full hardness, so their advantage is that you can make adjustments while the glue cures.
I have read that, in the long run, the fast-acting glues become brittle, so the join might tend to break if the figure falls over. In contrast, 2-part epoxies have been said to have stronger joins that last longer. But we're talking years, decades, really, and I don't know if anyone has ever done a proper, scientific study on either glue's holding power.
Both can be used to fill gaps, too. Fast-acting CA glue can be flowed into a gap, hardened with the accelerator, then sanded and painted. 2-part epoxy can, too, but you want to let it cure fully, before working it.
Hope that helps, prosit!
Bradley
I've settled on Hobbytown's own brand for both.
Fast-acting CA (the C is "cyano-", I forget the "A", is it "acetate"?) often is used in conjunction with an accelerator. Zap-a-Gap has one. You flow the glue onto the area to be glued, then spray a quick shot of the accelerator, which contains a catalyst that speeds up the drying time. Though most fast-acting glues dry in seconds, anyway (mind your fingers!)
2-part epoxies consist of a glue and a catalyst, which you must mix, usually in equal parts. They set in about 5 minutes, and take longer to cure to full hardness, so their advantage is that you can make adjustments while the glue cures.
I have read that, in the long run, the fast-acting glues become brittle, so the join might tend to break if the figure falls over. In contrast, 2-part epoxies have been said to have stronger joins that last longer. But we're talking years, decades, really, and I don't know if anyone has ever done a proper, scientific study on either glue's holding power.
Both can be used to fill gaps, too. Fast-acting CA glue can be flowed into a gap, hardened with the accelerator, then sanded and painted. 2-part epoxy can, too, but you want to let it cure fully, before working it.
Hope that helps, prosit!
Bradley
binder001
Command Sergeant Major
- Joined
- Apr 30, 2005
- Messages
- 2,729
The best repair method relies less on the glue than the support you give the part. If you have any skill at small stuff, or know a modeler, the strongest joint will come from drilling into each side of the joint and spanning it with a piece of wire. A "pinned and glued" joint will be stronger and longer lasting than just glue alone.
Word of warning - many types of ACC ("super glues") leave a whitish residue after curing. Less is more - use only what you need. One suggestion is to put a dab of whatever glue you're using onto a piece of wax paper and transfer the glue with a toothpick. Further, more ACC does not create a stronger joint, but ironically often a weaker one. You want glue bonding to metal, not glue bonding to glue.
Last comment - even though ACC sets up fast, leave your repair alone for a while. If you can put the figure where the repaired arm will be supported while the glue stes up to maximum strength. Handle the repaired figure gently - most super glues are not good at handling "shock" forces.
Gary
Word of warning - many types of ACC ("super glues") leave a whitish residue after curing. Less is more - use only what you need. One suggestion is to put a dab of whatever glue you're using onto a piece of wax paper and transfer the glue with a toothpick. Further, more ACC does not create a stronger joint, but ironically often a weaker one. You want glue bonding to metal, not glue bonding to glue.
Last comment - even though ACC sets up fast, leave your repair alone for a while. If you can put the figure where the repaired arm will be supported while the glue stes up to maximum strength. Handle the repaired figure gently - most super glues are not good at handling "shock" forces.
Gary