Best Saw for Converting figures? (1 Viewer)

[arnhem44mad]

What's the best saw for Converting figures?

Is there a small saw which is best?

Also what's the best way to let the figures off of their bases?

Scott

 

[Horus]

What's the best saw for Converting figures?

Is there a small saw which is best?

Also what's the best way to let the figures off of their bases?

Scott

Hi Scott.

I've done a couple of conversions on WB figures which involved swapping heads and used a Craft scalpel, though that was from what I have, to what may be on the market.
Be aware if doing this to carefully chose the two figures you want to convert or you'll only be able to use one figure, but I guess if that happens you'd still be able to make use of the second figure as a casualty.

I drill a hole in head and torso to fit a piece of thick wire in which is to secure the head in position, which I superglue.

You'll also need Milliput, I use the White Superfine to fill the gaps then paint.

Some minor conversions you can probably do with just paint, as I have with some new USMC where I've changed Green uniforms to Camouflage ones or you could use Milliput for changing head gear or modelling packs etc.

If you can, try a practice run on some low value or broken figure.

I expect other forum members have their own way of doing conversions, which hopefully they will chip in with, but this works for me.

Steve

 

[Poppo]

Guy explained how to take off the base: a lighter under the base for 15-20 seconds, and you can take it off. I did like this and it worked very good.^&cool

 

[Partner]

I use a jewellers saw. The blade is very fine . You may be able to salvage both figures if you are swapping similar parts such as heads .
Kirk

 

[theBaron]

There's no one best, but rather, you'll get personal preferences. I use X-Acto razor saws, Nr 35 and 34, for white metal. They fit into a Nr 5 handle:

http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/tools-accessories/detail/X75350

I also use a Nr 15 keyhole saw blade for some cuts, depending on how thick the material is and for hard-to-reach spots where the razor saw won't fit:

http://www.xacto.com/products/cutting-solutions/blades/detail/X215

Those fit into a standard handle, the same one that Nr 11 blades fit into.

I use these with white metal and with styrene. With resin, and also with styrene cuts where I want a finer cut with less waste (less of a kerf, to put it technically), I use this saw from Czech Model Kits:

https://www.cmkkits.com/en/others/cmk-holder/

It has a fine blade, with 70 teeth on the one edge and 42 on the other. It produces a very fine cut.

Prost!
Brad

 

[arnhem44mad]

Thank you lads!

It's actually for taking figure's legs off at the ankles and knees to simulate wading through water!

Scott

 

[theBaron]

Thank you lads!

It's actually for taking figure's legs off at the ankles and knees to simulate wading through water!

Scott

Yeah, any of the saws we've mentioned will do. So, you'll remove him from his base, pin him, and attach him to a new base that is painted to depict water?

Prost!
Brad

 

[arnhem44mad]

Yeah, any of the saws we've mentioned will do. So, you'll remove him from his base, pin him, and attach him to a new base that is painted to depict water?

Prost!
Brad

Yes mate...or remove from base. Repaint base and add back except with ankles cut off.

 

[Guy]

Thank you lads!

It's actually for taking figure's legs off at the ankles and knees to simulate wading through water!

Scott

You don't have to. If you work with "Still water" in your diorama, you can colour the water with acryl paint so that the base is no longer visible, or you can cover the base with whatever the bottom of the water is made of ( sand or mud etc..)
Very soon I will start working on a small D-Day beach diorama (only 5 figures coming out of the sea) and that's how I will do it.
guy