Casting multi cavity molds (1 Viewer)

kilted vampire

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So I am on a mission to cast another six Motorcycle and sidecar combos with riders. I had two bikes next to each other and said to myself that's cool:cool:. I bet that would look better with another half dozen or so. So I got serious and have been casting all evening. I have all the parts I need. I have even primed some of them and made a few extra parts that I needed.

So I discovered something about multi cavity molds. When casting it is best to focus on one piece. Clamping pressure is important and too much on one side can effect the other. Go figure!

I was having problems with the driver. One hand would not come out. The side car rider cam out every time. By adjusting the pressure of the clamps I was able to get the hand to come out perfectly! The next five came out as well!

The handle bars were giving me fits as well. Then I remembered the wire trick. I laid a piece of wire the shape of the handle bar next to the impression. They came out every time again.

Boy the learning curve just shot way up!
 
Must admit that I've a liking for bikes as well!

Were you using fibreboard btwn the clamp and the mold? They're supposed to distribute the pressure across the mold, but sometimes this is not enough. Talcum and graphite powder also help distribute the flow, but I dislike the latter as it contaminates the metal for later use.

When making a mold, I put little piece of wire at critical points next to the master to allow air to escape. Kinda hard to describe them . . . almost zee-shaped, with bends at right angles. One leg is embedded in the plasticene, the middle part parallel to the surface and touching the master, and the third piece sticking up in the air where the silicon will capture it. When the mold is complete. the wires are removed, leaving small cavities for the air to collect.

If the mold is already made, you can small drill holes or cut channels with a hobby knife to achieve a similar effect.

How about sharing some images of the bikes, both as they came out of the mold and as assembled?

Al
 
Must admit that I've a liking for bikes as well!

Were you using fibreboard btwn the clamp and the mold? They're supposed to distribute the pressure across the mold, but sometimes this is not enough. Talcum and graphite powder also help distribute the flow, but I dislike the latter as it contaminates the metal for later use.

When making a mold, I put little piece of wire at critical points next to the master to allow air to escape. Kinda hard to describe them . . . almost zee-shaped, with bends at right angles. One leg is embedded in the plasticene, the middle part parallel to the surface and touching the master, and the third piece sticking up in the air where the silicon will capture it. When the mold is complete. the wires are removed, leaving small cavities for the air to collect.

If the mold is already made, you can small drill holes or cut channels with a hobby knife to achieve a similar effect.

How about sharing some images of the bikes, both as they came out of the mold and as assembled?

Al

I was talking to Bob O'Connell about casting tricks and he helped me out a bit to. I was using the fibreboard and doubled up on them as well.



 
Pictures of riders and motorcycles sidecars and wheels already flashed primed and painted. After I get them together and detailed I am going to try and sell some of them at a local toy train show.










 
Looking good KV can't wait to see them painted up.

Thanks. I am having a debate right now with the base color for the bikes and hacks. It looks to light grey but it contrasts the uniforms great. The details on the bike do not show up though. Looking for a darker grey.
 









Some more shots. getting more paint on the figures. Left the sprues on to hold the figures. It works sometimes, depending on the figure.

2nd shot is some of the sub assemblies for the sidecar .
 
Hey KV, you're motoring on with these :eek:

Look forward to seeing the Chapter develop
 
Thanks, I have all but one completed. I have gotten hooked on these bikes. I am looking for a 1 to 1 scaled set up. The Russians make a bomb proof one called a Ural Patrol/ Gear Up

These little guys will be for sale. I will be making more American ones as well.







 
Hi Vamp,

I am very impressed with the work you are doing with the bikes and their riders. You indicate you will be selling some of these pieces. Do you have a price in mind for them?

Warmest personal regards,

Pat :)
 
Hi Vamp,

I am very impressed with the work you are doing with the bikes and their riders. You indicate you will be selling some of these pieces. Do you have a price in mind for them?

Warmest personal regards,

Pat :)

Thank you Pat wait till you see the group photo.

For forum members the price will be $45.00 US Plus shipping Conus only $7.50 US
 
They look bad-*** in their SS uniforms. Great job so far. We need close ups of the complete setup!!
 
Thank you Pat wait till you see the group photo.

For forum members the price will be $45.00 US Plus shipping Conus only $7.50 US

Hi Vamp,

Thanks a million for the information. Your group photo is awesome!

Warmest personal regards,

Pat
 
Thanks Jeff! I went to a train show and actually sold some figures and one of the bikes based on the merit of their looks. I am totally stoked! To the other forum members who have bought figures from me and the bikes thank you one and all. Have more bikes left and will be doing some of the other camouflaged bikes soon. Once you get the hang of it , it is really fun.

Also i will be making a partial casting of the rider for one of the Herzers that I have. It came with no figures.
 

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