Help fixing a glossy....!? (2 Viewers)

[Aggie99]

I have a glossy painted metal figure that apparently had a crack in his paint which caused some of the paint to chip / crack and fall off.

Fortunately, this was only in one spot on his arm (the elbow), and is towards the back of the figure. He now has an unpainted, or bald, elbow and I want to fix it.

I am not looking to really do a complete repair job on his arm, and really just want to find a way to ensure that the paint doesn't continue to crack and fall off. In other words, I am not really set up to repaint the arm, etc. (I have no glossy paint).

I first thought that coating the spot with super-glue (or something similar), might do the trick. My thought was that the super glue would dry clear and coat the chipped area, thus "sealing" any cracks. However, as always, before I do anything to a figure, I post here and see what everyone else says.

Does anyone have any suggestions? I can post more info about the damage if need be. I can even post a photo. Just let me know, and as always, thanks so much for the help. (This forum is a life saver!!).

Oh, and as a side note (as I am not sure this is important), the figure appears to be gold under his paint. When the paint chipped, I expected to see a dull grey metal underneath the paint, but instead it is a very shiny gold metallic color. I am not sure that changes anything, but just thought I would mention it.

Gig'em {sm0}

 

[theBaron]

I would not use superglue (aka cyanoacrylate or CA) to cover the spot. I would paint it and seal it with a clear acrylic or a clear gloss varnish. That's an immediate and probably suitable solution. You mention that you have no gloss paints, but if you have matte paints and can match the color, you could touch up the damaged area and then cover it with the gloss coat. A lot of us painters do that, anyway--use matte colors and then seal them with a gloss coat. I use Future floor wax for mine.

Let's look at the cause of the chipping, to decide whether it might spread. Did the figure get knocked over, and the paint chipped? Or did it just flake off in the course of handling? You mention that the figure looks gold under the paint, which makes me think that it's not a white metal (tin/antimony/bismuth/lead alloy of some combination) but perhaps brass or some other alloy containing copper. Or maybe it is gold. Or someone just painted over an older coat of a gold-colored paint. In any case, it makes me think about the primer coat that was used, or not used. Paint can flake off, if something happens to a figure, like getting knocked over, with a piece getting bent to the point that the paint cracks. Or, it can flake off because it's not adhering to the surface below. That's the main reason we painters prepare our surfaces by cleaning them and priming, to increase the odds as much as possible that our finish colors will remain on the figure.

My thought is to strip the figure entirely and repaint it, but I'm a painter, so it would be a fun exercise for me. I don't know if you'd want to do that. But in repainting it, I would make sure that the bare metal surface is clean--I use warm water and a couple of drops of the de-greaser SuperClean--then I would prime, then paint.

Do you have any pictures of the figure? I'm curious now to see this figure.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Aggie99]

I would paint it and seal it with a clear acrylic or a clear gloss varnish. That's an immediate and probably suitable solution. You mention that you have no gloss paints, but if you have matte paints and can match the color, you could touch up the damaged area and then cover it with the gloss coat. A lot of us painters do that, anyway--use matte colors and then seal them with a gloss coat. I use Future floor wax for mine.

Brad,

As always, thanks for the help.

[First] Lets see if I understand you correctly..... you would paint the spot with matte paint (as I have no glossy), and then cover it with a gloss coat. Correct?

I am not sure what "Future Floor Wax" is, but I am assuming that is a gloss coat. Where can I find a gloss coat? Is this something that I can find in a paint aisle at the store where I buy my matte paints? Or is it something else entirely.

[Second] Stripping and re-painting the figure scares the hell out me. haha

However, I am guessing it shouldn't due to the fact that I actually have two of this particular figure. I could keep one (as is) and then experiment on the one with chipped paint. However, I am still worried I will mess it up.

I have a decent amount of experience painting with matte paints on plastic figures, but have never done a metal one. Further, I have never stripped the paint off a figure. How do I do that? Also, do I use the same spray-on primer on this metal figure that I use on my plastic figures?

It's an interesting thought, but I am not sure I am willing to risk messing him up even more than he already is.

I will try to post a photo in the near future.

 

[theBaron]

Sure thing!

Regarding using matte or gloss, it depends on the color. That is, we're fixing a gloss figure, and I have a matching color, but it's a matte finish paint, then I'll use that color, knowing that I'll have to apply the gloss coat afterwards.

Future is a clear acrylic floor wax made by SC Johnson, Co. The formal name of the product now is "Pledge (with Future shine)", after a series of mergers between companies. Here is a link to an article outlining the origins of the product and its uses, tip of the hat to Matt Swanny's Models:

http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html

When I got back into scale modeling 15 years ago or so, using Future was one of the tips I learned about early on. Modelers use it for all kinds of things, like dipping clear parts (it fills all the microscopic scratches and makes the clear part look clearer), as a gloss undercoat for decals (helps prevent clear decal film from silvering), and also, as a gloss coat for toy soldiers. The great thing is it's a lot cheaper than glosscoat products made by hobby suppliers like Tamiya or Testors, and easy to work with--no fumes, it's non-toxic (but still, don't chug it), and your mom probably used it or something like it on linoleum floors. You can find it in the cleaning supplies section of your grocery store.

If you do decide to strip the figure, here are the steps I would follow:

1. Strip the paint. You can use a number of things, from oven cleaner to brake fluid to mineral spirits (not as effective) to bleach. Oven cleaner will definitely take the paint off, but it's very caustic, so you'd best wear gloves and work in a well-ventilated area. I used to use oven cleaner, but switched to Super Clean a couple of years ago. It's a de-greaser, used to be made by Castrol under their own brand, and now it's made by a subsidiary. I get mine in gallon jugs at Walmart. The great thing about Super Clean is that it is much easier to use than oven cleaner. It doesn't give off fumes, it's not nearly as caustic as the lye-based oven cleaner (though the bottle instructions do recommend wearing gloves) and you can use a batch of it over and over (oven cleaner is once-and-done). I keep a glass jar filled with Super Clean and soak pieces to be stripped. After about 15 minutes, the top coats become softened enough that I can scrub the paint away with an old toothbrush. I also use it to clean my brushes and airbrush, when I've used them with acrylics.

2. Clean the piece. By this, I mean that you clean off the remaining residue from the stripping process, leaving the bare metal surface. I use warm water and Super Clean for this, too. I discovered the first time I used that stuff that it really is a de-greaser. I had stripped the chrome of a fret of chromed parts in a car kit, and when I picked up the sprue, it was literally squeaky clean. All of the surface oils and grease, from mold release compounds to my own skin oils, were gone. Anyway, I would rinse the piece and let it dry on some paper towel.

3. Prime the piece. You asked about using the same primer that you use for plastic figures. I guess that would depend on the primer. Is it formulated specifically for use with plastics? I use an automotive primer (Walmart's generic brand) for everything I build, because it adheres well to metal, plastic or resin, and it provides a good "tooth" for the top coats of paint, that is, they will adhere well to the primer, and that's the reason for priming.

4. Apply your finish colors and seal as necessary. As I mentioned before, I use both gloss and matte paints, as long the color is what I need, and seal everything with a gloss coat.

However, you'll probably be able to touch up the damaged area, if you can match the color.

I hope that all makes sense.

Prost!
Brad

 

[blaster]

Hi,

Is it possible to tell if that figure was painted with enamels or acrylics? Matching the touch up paint would be easier then.

Rgds Victor