How to strip paint from pewter miniatures (2 Viewers)

Sgtkillroy1944

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Howdy fellas was just curious on what liquid solvents , to use when stripping paint from metal miniatures , I watched a tutorial online of a dude from the UK stripping wargaming metal miniatures with great ease with a solution called cellelous thinners . I’ve looked everywhere for this thinner and have found that the North American solution is acetone or laquer thinner . I’ve hit this figure with both of these solution sand it’s an incredibly slow go . I got these figures relatively cheap for prepainted but being a perfectionist when it comes to collecting and or painting soldiers I figured I could do a better more accurate job if I stripped them down and repainted them myself .


Here’s a link to the video this guy dunks them in waits for a few minutes and there nearly as good as new like magic !

https://youtu.be/MUaN_s5-pGs


Any help on this would be greatly appreciated

Take care fellas happy collecting and painting !
Stay healthy!
 
Some are doing this by using a bath of brake fluid
Or a level lower : liquid for cleaning oven ( my choice )
Only experience will tell you how long : I had some completely cleaned in 30min, other took 3 times 24 hours, toothbrushing at each step, depending of kind of colours used and thickness of the layer(s)

Be carefull : toxicity, disposal
Use gloves, protect your eyes, do it in open air



Take out of the bath, and wash with toothbrush ( eium smooth ) under running water, then, when you are satisfied with the result wash in water with soap and rince, let it dry and apply the first undercoat for protection against any kind of corrosion, metal disease and any other incovenients .
( Sometime the glue will dissolve )

Best
 
I would be wary of a couple of things in that video. First I would be using gloves using any thinners like used there. Secondly I would suggest that being a paint thinner there is a danger of fumes in a confined space.

When I strip metal figures (both white metal and pewter) I use domestic paint stripper. I have an old steel bowl that I place the figures in and cover with paint stripper and leave for around 30 minutes or so, before scrubbing the paint off with an old toothbrush. I do it outside and wear rubber gloves. Sometimes I need to use two applications.

What is also very important is mentioned by Mirof. Once you have removed the paint you need to remove all traces of the stripper off the figures with a bath of water and detergent and a good scrub with a clean tooth brush. If you don't you can find later that you have paint adhesion problems.

Another point worth considering is what kind of paint have the used figures been painted with. As mentioned in that video, modern acrylics are easy to remove with methylated spirits or oven cleaner. Older paints like enamels and you will need paint stripper.

If you use automotive brake fluid- again wear rubber gloves to protect your skin.

Scott
 
I have to agree with both Mirof and Hazebrouck about the methods used.

Give it a go, and see how it works, every figure is different but you will get a good result if you stick at it, but take care with these corrosive products,

John
 
Hi All,

I just want to add that I have never had any success in trying to strip paint with brake oil fluid. Nothing comes off. Presumably the composition (synthetic or not) of brake fluids matter?

When I dunk the figures in dettol, cellulose or lac thinner, everything comes off.

Rgds

Victor
 
Kilroy, since you're in the US, go to Walmart and buy a gallon jug of SuperClean and use that. That's what I use.

SuperClean is an automotive de-greaser, originally made by Castrol, but now it's spun off. Years ago, on a modeling forum, I saw someone use it to strip the chrome from plated model kit's sprues. I tried it myself on the chromed frets from a kit. It removed the chrome in under two minutes. I tried it next to strip paint from old figures. It will soften and dissolve paint in minutes, and the longer you leave the piece in it, the more effective it is. After a soak, I remove the figure and use an old toothbrush to scrub away the rest of the softened paint. Usually one pass is sufficient, but sometimes it might take a second pass.

Also-and here's the best part-you can re-use a batch of it over and over. I use glass jars of different sizes as baths for figures of different sizes or numbers of them.

SuperClean does not affect metal, nor styrene, nor resin.

I use it around the house for cleaning, too, since it is a de-greaser.

Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad
 
I use Simple Green . . . a household cleaner available at most grocery stores. Takes a few days, but environmentally safer. When most of the paint is gone, I don a facemask , rinse the figures in water, and scrub with a toothbrush. A dental pick or similar tool is helpful in getting rid of residual paint. Then continue the soaking/scrubbing/picking process until clean. Prior to painting. I remove residual paint and oxide with a wirebrush and a powertool. Be sure the brush is soft unless you want to show hair lines in horses. Don't know if it's the fastest method, but it's worked for me for over twenty years. Main points: don't rush; take safety precautions, make sure it's environmentally safe.

Bosun Al
 
thank you for all the tips and suggestions fellas , i applied all your tips and methods to the miniatures i have been trying to strip and their now ready to be primed and repainted, took some experimenting and trial and error but there as good as new now and ready for a revamp! ^&grin
 
I have been using Paint Stripper from AK interactive and I am pretty happy with the results so far.
 

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