Metal Question (1 Viewer)

[Peter Reuss]

Right now we're using a lead free metal (EZ Pour from Dunken), and while it pours very well, it's quite brittle.

What mixtures of metal do you guys tend to use? Ben would prefer lead free if possible.

Thanks! We're learning as we go.

Pete

 

[Obee]

Pete,

I use lead / tin alloy, but I know you should also have Bismith in it too, but I use recycled metal, such as pewter goblets from garage sales and lead tyre weights or printer's lead.

Sorry, can't help with non lead metal,

John

 

[theBaron]

I use linotype metal, which is an alloy of tin, antimony and lead, about 4-12-84, percent-wise. I wouldn't worry about using alloys that include lead, it's not like it's radioactive, despite the hysteria. Just cast in a well-ventilated area, and make sure you wash up afterward, both of which you should do as a matter of course. Adding lead to the alloy can reduce the brittleness, which increases as the percentage of tin in the alloy increases.

Antimony and bismuth both expand as they cool, which helps in casting alloys to help with crisp detail. They also impart some hardness to the alloy, as does tin, and so, casting alloys have traditionally used combinations of these metals in various ratios.

Prost!
Brad

 

[trooper]

If you solder any pieces together beware of using too much bismuth. For some reason heat travels to the thinnest part, for example if you are soldering an arm on to a figure you inevitably find the wrist suddenly melts. Also if you make a multi mould from parts cast with bismuth the heat will distort the pieces and render the mould useless. For commercial purposes it is best to use a proffesional alloy. Here in the UK the best one I have found is MMX42 made by Summit Solders. It has good flow properties enabling very fine detail and small parts to be cast easily and has a dross inhibitor which does away with the tiresome task of scooping off dross and then at some date having to put up the heat and render the dross down to powder. All you get is a fine powder which is easily removed.

 

[Scarlet Pimpernel]

I could not agree with Brad more. The 4-12-84 mix is excellent. Bismuth is recommended for crispness and relatively low melting point, and frankly you want a bit of lead to reduce brittleness...you can't have it both ways. I don't think there has ever been a reported case of lead poisoning from toy soldiers. If you are chewing on them, you are more likely to choke on the bayonette.

 

[kilted vampire]

I am a big fan of pewter. It is expensive but worth it.

Holy Crap that is post 7000!

 

[Igor]

There are no problems doing the casting an alloy with lead
The most important thing to wash your hands after work (preferably in a 1% solution of vinegar)

 

[sunyi]

There are no problems doing the casting an alloy with lead
The most important thing to wash your hands after work (preferably in a 1% solution of vinegar)

In the lead casting process, the key is to control the temperature. This is because the melting point of lead is 342 degrees Celsius, when the molten lead is heated to above 400 degrees Celsius, the steam will be discharged lead. As with the steam in the discharge of lead in lead released into the atmosphere is divided form, so be inhaled into the lungs will enter the body by the blood, the formation of blood lead and lead poisoning disease. Usually when the processing of lead with the lead hand will not even eat his mouth into the blood, only discharged with the stool.
Warning: When the molten lead with particular attention to temperature control! Must be less than 400 degrees Celsius.
If only the processing of lead or tin, temperature control, which is no problem. If the molten copper, the copper melting point is 640 degrees Celsius, copper block in the form of lead will be discharged steam. So you may have never heard of lead poisoning in printing typesetting work, but the copper plant will be the person they are nothing but blood lead disease.
My uncle lives like heat his lunch on the molten lead, has never been ill.