Painting eyes on 1/35 scale (1 Viewer)

jsteedman8

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Okay i know what your probaly going to say but a 000 brush doesn't always do it. How can i get them even and then add pupils with out having a blob in the middle. Any help would be appreciated.
 
There are a few people here who work with 1/35 kits but if you really want a bigger audience then you should go to the links listed below. I usually paint the white part with an off white color and don't worry if its not even then I concentrate on the pupil. Sometimes I use a toothpick or needle for the pupil. Then I paint with flesh around the eyes to make them even.

www.hyperscale.com
www.missing-lynx.com
 
Thanks for the tip it's funny i have made some 1/72 scale but i thought that 1/35 scale would be popular. From a paint perspective that is
 
I've used a paint maker with a very fine point (for the pupil). If painting you really don't need a small brush as much as one with a very sharp point.
 
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Hi Guys,

I like to use a pin or a really sharp fine point paint marker. Of course I also have to use a light enhanced magnifing glass for the really detailed work getting old stinks!

Dave
 
I like to use floquil golden fox f307 25/0 or f306 20/0 they work really well for me on fine detail. Don,t go cheap on brushes and take good care of them and like soldier brigade said its more in a sharp tip than anything. The floquil golden fox I think are around $6-$8 per brush I think but they are worth the extra money in my opion but what works for me may not for others and everybody has there own opion so give a few different brushes a try and see what works best for YOU. A good light and magnifier will make a difference also and i like to add eyebrows over the top also it makes them look alot better. I,m no great painter but I hope this helps!!! What does fubar have to say on this he,s always painting? And if all else fails just paint them over a few times till you get them right.
 
I agree with the idea of using a pin or such to help paint the iris. I always have bits of small wire laying around the workbench. A piece of .012 or .015 wire dipped into a small puddle of paint will carry just about enough for an eye. Let the paint "drop" off the wire, that is, just touch the wire to the eye and let the paint come off as a "dot". Just wipe the wire tip off with a paper towel and you can move on to the next eye. (If you don't clean the wire tip, the paint drop will get larger). I follow with the "classic" approach - paint the white, then the iris, then paint the flesh color on the face around the eye.

I looking at some of the modeling websites, there are those who believe that the eye should be "suggested" rather than detailed. Try a few and see what looks best and works best for you. Use a few extra or cheap figures for practice.

Gary
 
I like to use a small wire or rounded toothpick for the dots.Also like the rest I shade around eyes and paint brows. Sometimes I use the magnifying light but don't like it. Usually can do better using my regular glasses. I do like floquil Ultimate brushes and not has expensive has Winsor-Newton Series 7 brushes. One stupid thing I did once was send away for eye ball decals- not a pretty sight even if you got them lined up. They looked weird. Faces are the most challenging thing on painting figures. Leadmen
 
jsteedman8 said:
Okay i know what your probaly going to say but a 000 brush doesn't always do it. How can i get them even and then add pupils with out having a blob in the middle. Any help would be appreciated.


Hi...I think everyone who paints struggles with both facial/skin color and then of course the eyes. I personally prefer a 0000 sceptre gold II 101 by Windsor Newton. I recently finished a 1/32 Robert E. Lee, that sits on my desk who's body but specifically whole face is so lifelike you think you have him in person. Patience is the key. John at upnaway has tremendous tips. I usually start with just a almond shape of white and go back with the appropriate color, usually dark grey and just dot the eye. then I follow up using the flesh color to reduce the white as needed. as for getting them even...so they appear on the same plane... that also is a steady hand and just lots of practice.
I have 65 Bussler Confederate figures due in from a customer for painting and have found that custom work from clients is a definite blessing, especially if you are like me and cannot get out and about.
good luck,
steve
 

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