Primer Update (1 Viewer)

Carnahan

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Joined
Jul 26, 2009
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Anyone use Model Master gray enamel primer lately? I had a big problem a few years back with two bottles - the stuff left a rubbery, shiny finish that I couldn't fix with dullcote to save myself. I switched to Floquil, but with that gone I need an alternate.
 
I used to use automotive primer but I have started using Tamiya's surface primer. Rattlecans in each case.

Prost!
Brad
 
After I tried out various brands of rattle cans I returned to useing PLAKA-Paint white (or black) applied by brush in two thin coats. Still works best for me.
Kind Regards
Wolfgang
 
I used to use automotive primer but I have started using Tamiya's surface primer. Rattlecans in each case.

Prost!
Brad

When I use it at all - that's the one that I use too Brad. Works just fine. jb
 
Anyone use Model Master gray enamel primer lately? I had a big problem a few years back with two bottles - the stuff left a rubbery, shiny finish that I couldn't fix with dullcote to save myself. I switched to Floquil, but with that gone I need an alternate.


Those were primer used when the figures were mainly made of lead, not only to have a base to paint on, bu also to isolate from air, moistures, and avoid lead sickness (lead decaying)
The mounted, primed kits were delivered as such (70ies)
Lasset (note : the shield was no protected by the same layer so 40 years later : ... rust
54mm A71.jpg
Sovereign
R Lasset 75mm 1 bis.jpg

Stadden, Serie 77 ( when produced in England )

Today, I use Tamaya Metal primer, and Citadel skull white ( mainly for plastic )
 
I'm another who uses and likes the Tamiya primers. I use the surface primer for metal/plastic which is a finer coat than the their grey surface primer.

Scott
 
I started using the Tamiya primer for two reasons. The automotive primers I bought were WalMart's store brand, and I found lately that the cans tended to clog, leaving me with nearly half a can of paint and no easy way to decant it. The other was that the Tamiya primer is very fine-grained, and for my scale models, it does produce a noticeably better result than the automotive primers, which seem to have more coarse pigments to them.

I also tried Rustoleum's metal primer for a while, years ago, but I found that a can didn't last very long, and was more expensive than the generic primers (like Walmart's). I've never gone back to Rustoleum, for toy soldiers or models; I use it now only for 1:1 projects around the house and garden.

Prost!
Brad

I should add this postscript, too...

A couple of years ago, my buddy Scott (oldtrousers, here in the forum), got me into building Maschinen Krieger kits. It's a line of science fiction subjects, armored suits and the like. Working with other MaK builders, I also picked up on using Army Painter Matte Black enamel primer. It, too, is fine-grained and covers well, and it dries rock-hard. We use it as the base for a weathering technique, in which the finished colors are applied using acrylics. Then, to replicate the chipping and scuffing of natural weathering, you take a nylon scouring pad, like an old ScotchBrite pad, and use it to scrape away paint. I can see using that primer on figures, too, because it covers so well and provides an excellent base for finished coats. It is a little pricey, though. I get mine from Hobby Bunker.
 

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