Brad,
This request would probably be better addressed in the "Diorama How-To" section, but I saw the title of the thread and thought I'd look in.
Can you, or anyone else, please offer some advise on how to make a proper "Light Box (?)" for taking photographs of small vignettes consisting of a few figures and the odd piece of scenery? A friend of mine in Hong Kong told me you can buy them, but facilities for purchasing these kind of things are limited where I live and the natural light in our present home is horrible for taking decent photos.
Thanks
Harry
Hi, Harry, that's a good question, I never thought of making a "light box" in that sense. I don't know that you'd need a box of fixed size, necessarily, as much as having good light sources--note the plural--to light the piece for photographing.
I draw on experience from another hobby, stage lighting. If you think about it, a diorama is like a scene on a proscenium stage (the traditional stage), and we're sitting in the audience, about 40 feet away.
One general rule in lighting a stage is that you want two sources of light on every target, to reduce shadows as much as possible, and to help preserve the 3-D effect. A single source of light on a scene will tend to make it flat to the viewer. The next time you watch the news on TV, take a good look at the anchors, and you'll see that they're backlit from above, for the same reason. Also, studio portrait photographers do the same thing.
For my pics, I'm currently using a pair of quarz halogen work lights mounted on a stand, angled in at about 45 degrees. I still get some shadows on the ground, but for my purposes, they're not too bad. In a dio, those shadows would be diffused into the scenery. But you could also use smaller, portable work lights, that have a spring clamp base and a stamped metal reflector, I've seen a lot of guys use those.
If you can, put the subject on a table or some other kind of platform, and arrange the lights so you're hitting the subject from either side, and from slightly in front, anywhere from a 15 degree to a 45 degree angle. The 45 rule is a good rule of thumb for the elevation of the light source, too, that is, the light should strike the subject from about 45 degrees up in the air. The higher the angle, the more overhead the light source is, the more you get shadows on the object (like onstage, an actor's eyes will go dark, because his brow starts to cast a shadow).
Beyond positioning a white light, you might think about color, too. White light will tend to wash out the natural colors, and so we use colored gels to tint stage lights. (Called gels because back in the day, they were made from colored gelatin, poured out in very thin sheets). You can get them at a stage supply company. For a general scene, we use shades of amber-in catalogs here, they're 01, 02 and 03 ambers. Amber has the effect of making human skin tones look normal and healthy, they way we look in ordinary daylight. Straw yellow replicates sunlight, reds will add warmth or heat to the lighting, and blues will cool them.
Bit of a ramble, I suppose, but I hope it helps!
Prosit!
Brad