Simulating Sweat (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter jomartvr
- Start date
theBaron
Major
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- Mar 27, 2008
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DeAgostino figures? So they're around 56mm, maybe as large as 60mm?
I would use two methods. For a large area of skin, covered in sweat, I would use a gloss acrylic. I use Future floor coating for things like this.
For beads of sweat, which you could see in that scale, try using an artist's acrylic gel medium, applied in drops or beads with a toothpick or a straight pin. Use the toothpick or pin to pick up a small droplet of the gel medium and place it where you want it. You'll need to make sure that you choose a gel medium that dries clear, not opaque.
Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad
I would use two methods. For a large area of skin, covered in sweat, I would use a gloss acrylic. I use Future floor coating for things like this.
For beads of sweat, which you could see in that scale, try using an artist's acrylic gel medium, applied in drops or beads with a toothpick or a straight pin. Use the toothpick or pin to pick up a small droplet of the gel medium and place it where you want it. You'll need to make sure that you choose a gel medium that dries clear, not opaque.
Hope that helps, prosit!
Brad
Hello Brad,
Attached is a photograph, from the web, of the figure. I purchased four for $28 and this included shipping from the U.K. While they are not up to KC standard, I like them and am willing to paint them. When you referred to "Future floor coating" you mean the floor wax from S.C. Johnson?
Thanks for the tips.
Benjamin
Attached is a photograph, from the web, of the figure. I purchased four for $28 and this included shipping from the U.K. While they are not up to KC standard, I like them and am willing to paint them. When you referred to "Future floor coating" you mean the floor wax from S.C. Johnson?
Thanks for the tips.
Benjamin
theBaron
Major
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- Mar 27, 2008
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Sure thing! And yes, that's the product, though today, it's "Pledge, with Future Shine", after several mergers and other changes. Many scale modelers use Future for things like gloss-coating before applying decals, or to dip clear parts in, and help clean them up. For decals, the gloss coat provides a surface relatively free of the tiny air pockets that cause "silvering". And with clear parts, like an airplane canopy, the acrylic fills in the tiny imperfections in the surface, like small scratches, allowing better transmission of light and making the parts clearer. I also use it as a sealer on my gloss toy soldiers. There are other gloss coat products, to be sure, but you can't beat the price, and it's easy to work with. It can be cleaned up with a mild ammonia solution, like Windex, and it's self-leveling, so you can apply it with a brush or even an airbrush. And you can also vary the gloss of the finish by cutting it with other things, though I've never done that myself. Cutting it with some of Tamiya's clear coat products can produce a satin finish, between a full gloss and a full matte, for example.
Matt Swann, a scale modeler who keeps a website/blog called Swanny's Models, has this page about Future, at his website:
http://www.swannysmodels.com/TheCompleteFuture.html
Hope that all helps, prosit!
Brad