Solder and Glue (1 Viewer)

[Boo]

Hello All,
I have been a lurker here for a long time and have found this forum to be very helpful. We have recently had some trouble with items coming apart in shipping so we have decided that it was time to look into figuring out how to solder or finding a better glue. I wanted to pass along a good solder called Tix solder. It melts at 275 degrees so I can heat it without melting the arms off of my guys.

While I am happy with Tix for most joints I haven't had much success soldering rifles onto the men. Can anyone recommend a good glue?

 

[Obee]

I've not had any luck with solder, I've only managed to melt parts so I use Super Glue, and also pin the parts if a better join is needed on parts that could be dammged easily.

John

 

[noli-poli]

I've not had any luck with solder, I've only managed to melt parts so I use Super Glue, and also pin the parts if a better join is needed on parts that could be dammged easily.

John

I use Gorilla brand super glue for polystone and plastic. In areas where you want to "build-up" to fill huge gaps, I first super glue in place and then use wood filler to fill gaps. When dried, I sand smooth and coat with for strength.

for metal-to-metal, I used JB Weld. It is the type of glue auto-mechanics use for car repairs on metal parts.
he
For broken rifle tips or bayonets (white meta or plasticl) , I use super glue. You have to be patient as you are gluing a thin small part. Let the glue hold or "sit" for about 30 minutes. When dry, coat the entire rifle tip for strength.

As a rule, when I get my "soldiers," I coat the rifle tips/baonets with super-glue for strength.

Also, please take note that the bond gets weak when you paint over the broken part because chemicals from the paint will seep-thru the glued part. Be sure to "overlap" coat the repaired part with super glue around the area of the repair. Coat with primer when dry then paint.

Hope this helps.

N-P

 

[johnnybach]

Hello All,
I have been a lurker here for a long time and have found this forum to be very helpful.

While I am happy with Tix for most joints I haven't had much success soldering rifles onto the men. Can anyone recommend a good glue?

Hi Boo. Glue.

I use two types. When I want a really runny glue - (to seep into joints, for example) - I use tubes of it from the Leader-price chain. Cheap as chips - and very runny.

When I want it not to run - I use a slightly "thick" gel - that goes where its put and stays there. It's in a handy squeezy bottle with a nozzle and made by "robbe" and (don't laugh!) is called "Extra Speed Dick". Has German instructions - so I guess zey haf vays off making sings stick!

I would use the non-runny type for weapons to hands - and maybe a touch where it touches a shoulder (for slope arms). I usually inspect the joint before its fully set - and remove any surplus "ooze" with the corner of a tissue.

This is in Europe, however - what you can get where you are - may have somewhat different names (hopefully). However the principles will be the same - use runny or thick - for what you want to do. Hope that helps. johnnybach

 

[theBaron]

I recommend 2-part epoxy glues to straight CA (cyano-acrylate, aka Super Glue) with or without an accelerant/hardener. CA tends to become brittle over time.

I'm with Obee on soldering, I'm not very good at it, so I haven't really used the technique, beyond applications like soldering a figure to a base via pins cast in its feet, or soldering 2 halves of a horse casting together.

Hope that helps, prost!
Brad

 

[johnnybach]

Yep - glue, or pin and glue when necessary, has stood me well for the last 12 years - and nothing has fallen off yet. Gave solder a try years ago. When La Commandante asked what I was making - I told her - " A Blob!".

Will try and find some two-part stuff in the UK though - and give it a try. Thanks Boo et al for an interesting and informative debate on sticking bits together. johnnybach

 

[MarkeytMaker]

Super Glue Epoxy...works wonders!

 

[johnnybach]

Never seen that product in France - but have now progressed to using "Araldite Rapide" (which I can find). It's a two part epoxy resin. Comes in two 15ml tubes - one is resin in a white tube, and the other is hardener in a red tube. Works a treat too - just don't put the wrong top back on the wrong tube - or you will never get it off again.

Another benefit is - I dont get so much on my hands now - so don't need to unstick my thumbs from the rest of my digits quite so often^&grin jb:rolleyes2:

 

[johnnybach]

And in the spirit of helping others know what the heck I'm on about - this is the glue product I'm talking about. A picture saves a thousand words... jb

 

[theBaron]

I use those fake credit cards that come in the mail as palettes when mixing 2-part expoxies. They used to be plastic, and I used them as a free source of plastic card stock for scratchbuilding. But a couple of years ago, most credit card issuers switched to using paper card for the mockups instead. The paper from the mail gets shredded, or used to start the Weber, and the cards go into a stash on the bench.

Prost!
Brad

 

[MarkeytMaker]

I use those fake credit cards that come in the mail as palettes when mixing 2-part expoxies. They used to be plastic, and I used them as a free source of plastic card stock for scratchbuilding. But a couple of years ago, most credit card issuers switched to using paper card for the mockups instead. The paper from the mail gets shredded, or used to start the Weber, and the cards go into a stash on the bench.

Prost!
Brad

Brad,

Automotive paint stores have 500 page 12 X 12 palette books. Body shops use them for mixing the two part bondo..use one peel it off and you have 499 left! Each sheet is sort of waxy and there is no bleed thru to the pages below. I think it cost about $10

 

[johnnybach]

And I use my old favourites - margarine tubs and lids to mix just about anything. (paint, glue etc.). They come free after you have used up the spread - and get thrown away after use - and I just reach for the next one. Just about any pot will do (Yoghurt, cream etc.) I have used them to make belts and webbing on plastics in the past - but just make up metal castings now. jb

 

[Warrior]

Super glue does not work well for me.

Gorilla glue, in a word, sucks.

THE best glue out there is called "Locktite", they sell it at Home Depot, it comes in a blue bottle.

It will glue any broken metal 100% of the time, bonds almost instantly and most importantly, will work on plumes and bayonets.

I had the handle bars on a K & C motorcycle break and it worked on that, I give it four *'s.............

 

[45thdiv]

I have to second LOCKTITE as a great glue. I'm curently working on a few rockets that are set to launch early next year and we go through gallons of Locktite to make sure the screws don't come loose during flight. Lots of vibration to the rocket when it takes off.

Matthew