Panzer iii vs Jagdpanzer iv (1 Viewer)

braddinpa

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Quick question. I picked up the Stug IV and love it. Anyone that has purchased the Panzer iii. What are your thoughts on it. Was thinking about purchasing the Jagdpanzer Iv (but I am aware of the upside down tracks. I thought about fixing it myself. But worried about damaging it). Anyway, any comments would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch. Brad
 
Quick question. I picked up the Stug IV and love it. Anyone that has purchased the Panzer iii. What are your thoughts on it. Was thinking about purchasing the Jagdpanzer Iv (but I am aware of the upside down tracks. I thought about fixing it myself. But worried about damaging it). Anyway, any comments would be appreciated. Thanks a bunch. Brad
It all depends on how much importance you give to historical reality but, unfortunately, the three jagdpanzer IV are not very accurate.
For more details you can read my previous messages about them on this forum, but here is a little summary of the main inaccuracies :
- BB069 : the barrel should be the long version without muzzle brake and the camo painting scheme is, IMHO, not very successfull.
- LWG035 : the barrel should be without muzzle brake and the tank should be coated with zimmerit.
- NOR101 : the barrel should be without muzzle brake and the tank should be coated with zimmerit.
And also hard edge camo painting scheme is very unlikely at this period and the big "L" front marking is suspicious.

In regard of PzKw III série, the models seem more accurate (minus PzKwIII Auf N).
 
The Kursk Panzer III is totally worth it. The model does not have as many opening hatches as the War Park or JJD Panzer IVs, but the paint and detail is amazingly beautiful. If you get a Jagdpanzer IV, the winter or Normandy versions with the side skirts are the best. There’s a lot of accuracy issues with the FL Jagdpanzer IV (the upside down tracks being the most glaring) but the paint and weathering are extremely well done. And the tracks can be fixed with a little work…

IMG_4958.jpegIMG_5880.jpegIMG_5878.jpeg
 
The Kursk Panzer III is totally worth it. The model does not have as many opening hatches as the War Park or JJD Panzer IVs, but the paint and detail is amazingly beautiful. If you get a Jagdpanzer IV, the winter or Normandy versions with the side skirts are the best. There’s a lot of accuracy issues with the FL Jagdpanzer IV (the upside down tracks being the most glaring) but the paint and weathering are extremely well done. And the tracks can be fixed with a little work…

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I like the weathering on the Jagdpanzer. But the upside down tracks are hard to ignore. Oh and both of your dioramas are great!!!
 
I like the weathering on the Jagdpanzer. But the upside down tracks are hard to ignore. Oh and both of your dioramas are great!!!
braddinpa, fixing the spare tracks on the Jagdpanzer IV is very much possible!

The spare tracks are a solid metal piece that mounts to the front armor glacis via a couple pegs that insert into holes on the vehicle. I used an exacto knife to carefully and gradually pry off the part. I then did a little sanding and trimming of the pegs, then glued the part back on in the correct orientation. You can see my pics below.

I would say one shouldn’t have to modify a premium and expensive model like that; however, the manufacturer should have caught the error from the get-go as well…

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Just purchased the new Kursk Panzer III, terms tank destroyers, the Normandy John Jenkins Jagdpanther is simply sublime.
 
T-Man,

Thanks for the great pics on the Jagdpanzer track-link fix. That will make it very easy to do my planned conversion/repaint in the future.
 
braddinpa, fixing the spare tracks on the Jagdpanzer IV is very much possible!

The spare tracks are a solid metal piece that mounts to the front armor glacis via a couple pegs that insert into holes on the vehicle. I used an exacto knife to carefully and gradually pry off the part. I then did a little sanding and trimming of the pegs, then glued the part back on in the correct orientation. You can see my pics below.

I would say one shouldn’t have to modify a premium and expensive model like that; however, the manufacturer should have caught the error from the get-go as well…

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What kind of glue did you use? Tamiya clear? I really like the weathering on this.
 
What kind of glue did you use? Tamiya clear? I really like the weathering on this.
Bradinpa, I used “Super Gold” CA glue with an accelerant to glue the tracks part back on. CA glue is often used for attaching metal photo-etched (PE) parts to plastic or resin and doesn’t dissolve/bond the plastic. The glue isn’t cheap (a 1 oz. Bottle costs around $18) but it’s worth the cost. Many hobby retailers have their own brands of the same type of glue and you can find it on Amazon as well.
 
Bradinpa, I used “Super Gold” CA glue with an accelerant to glue the tracks part back on. CA glue is often used for attaching metal photo-etched (PE) parts to plastic or resin and doesn’t dissolve/bond the plastic. The glue isn’t cheap (a 1 oz. Bottle costs around $18) but it’s worth the cost. Many hobby retailers have their own brands of the same type of glue and you can find it on Amazon as well.
Thanks very much.
 

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