A note about materials used in manufacturing. (1 Viewer)

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Hello there. From time to time I notice that there is some confusion about what some of the common materials are that many of our collectibles are made from. For now I will limit this to 'white metal' and 'resin' products that are produced and sold as predecorated 'limited runs'.

A. Pewter: Almost all companies that we discuss here including but not limited to, K&C, Frontline, W.Britain, ONWTC, Jenkins, Figarti, and the many others, use a white metal alloy commonly known as pewter. This is an alloy of Tin with various amounts of Antimony, Copper and Lead. Some companys use an alloy with no Lead content and some use as much as 50% Lead in their alloy. There are pros and cons to using various combinations ranging from ease of casting to price of materials or susceptibility to damage. This material is usually centrifugally, or spun cast in vulcanized rubber molds to make components that are then cleaned, assembled, primed and painted to create various miniatures. Three of the companys I have worked for in this market, Conte, ONWTC and W.Britain have elected to use a Tin Alloy with no Lead content.

B. Resin: Many of the vehicles and scenics that are offered are made from filled resins. The two most common resins are Polyester and Polyurethane. The most common one we encounter from off shore sources is Polyester with some inert filler. This can be almost any material...Microballons for light weight, metal powders such as Bronze, Steel, or Aluminum for 'cold cast' metals, and fine materials such as Marble, which is cheifly calcium carbonate. This last type of filler is often used to make what has been coined 'Polystone'.
The material of choice in North America has been Polyurethane resin, a thermoplastic that is used in most of the scale model railroad, aircraft, armor and figure kits that we see in hobby shops. In some applications it is more resistant to damage, but the material is usually more exspensive by weight. Both of the materials have advantages and disadvantages as a finished product. Generally the uncured and unmixed materials in the Polyeurethane family are less toxic to the folks handling them. Polyesters are easier to use with a multitude of different fillers with predictible results.

C. Photo Etched: This would be a fine detail part made from a thin sheet of alloy such as Copper, Brass, Stainless Steel or Magnesium. It is chemically milled, or etched from scale artwork. The prepared artwork is transferred to a sheet of alloy that is coated with a photosensitive resist. After this step it is then placed in a chemical bath to etch and remove the areas not protected by the coating. Once the unwanted areas are etched away the parts are rinsed to stop the chemical etching, cleaned, formed if needed, assembled primed and painted.

I hope this clears up some questions for the new folks to the hobby. If there are additional questions I will try to help.

 

[APACHEJOL]

Hi I am a new collector to the metals have collected timpo plastics for all of my collecting life. The research that I have done says pewter lead free is the best way to go. Quality of the figure is better and it is safer. Is this true? I was attracted to Conte figures because they were lead free wanted to get into the K@C stuff but was staying away because I could not find out if it was lead free. Plan to pass my collection to the next generation and want quality figures that will last a lifetime. AM I on the right track? Thanks Joel

 

[Njja]

Hi Joel:

I have collected all types of figures over the years, from the Britians

lead hollow cast, to their New Metal, old Dimestore, and various other

Manufacters. The King & Country Figures are the most durable I have ever

had. They can take a bump or tip over better then anything I have ever had.

Minor bends of delicate gun barrels can be easily corrected with a steady

hand.

Pewter is a combination of 85 to 99% tin, copper, antimony, or bismuth in

place of lead so it should be safe (you could contact King & Country to be

100% sure) and I can tell you its durable.

Njja

 

[Njja]

Of course I defer to Ken, a true expert in this field.

Njja

 

[APACHEJOL]

Thanks I will be looking into the K@C stuff as well as Conte I just dont know if I can get over the bigger figures. I really like the 1/32 scale everything I have castles forst etc are all 1/32. It will be nice to add groups of figures to my collection, searching for rare timpo figures I am lucky if I add five figures a year to my collection and those five figures cost as much as buying three or four entire lines of K@C or Conte. Just want to make sure I am not buying any garbage as I really dont know what I am doing yet. Thanks for the help. Joel

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

One of the disadvantages of non lead alloys is the lack of strength in thin cross sections. With that said, with careful handling this should not be an issue. As a model maker I have always liked some of the carecteristics of lead/tin alloys as it is easy to work with and easy to repair distorted or damaged finished products.
You should understand that vintage collectibles will probably have lead content. I would disagree with the previous post about pewter being identifyed as a high tin content alloy only. It is a well known fact that even early dinnerware such as plates, spoons and drinking cups had a lead content. I collect period pieces, but I do use them for serving.
The same can be said about your miniatures, display them but do not play with them. In the hands of a youth it may be a concern, and a poorly cleaned and unprimed metal casting could have future issues, even if decorated with paint.
It is appropriate that I only speak for the manufacturers that I have direct information for, and newly manufactured products. I recommend, however that if you are concerned, you should contact the manufacturer of the collectible that you are interested in. As a consumer you have a right to know the content so you can make an informed decision. They really do not have to give you the exact alloy make up as each company will usually have a proprietary mix that they use, but they really must give you a content listing, including lead content.
Again I hope this helps.

 

[binder001]

Thank you Ken. I knew that in the last few years there was a move away from the older high lead content figures, but didn't know about the variables in pewter. I have been a model-builder and have used resin cast parts but didn't know how that related to "polystone". Very interesting stuff! I enjoy hearing some of the nuts-and-bolts stuff about the hobby.

Gary B.

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Sitting here at the bench working on new W.Britains British Napoleonic infantry and it occured to me that there are a couple of other ranges I worked on that also use a high Tin/no Lead alloy.
These would be the sets done for Troiani Historical Miniatures, The US developed Corgi figures for fire and military, the US produced metal figure kits from ONWTC & Valiant Ltd. and the monochromatic painted metal figures included in the Conte playsets.
The three WWI figure kits released by ONWTC are cast here in the US with Polyureathane resin.

 

[Njja]

Ken:

Many of us counld only imagine how much fun it must be to sit at your

workbench and design new figures and related items. I hope it is as much

fun for you as we imagine! I hope deadlines, and business details do not

make it more of a job, then a labor of love.

Any plans to do anymore buildings to complement the Conte Church?

Njja

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Hi there! I hope you are well.
Yes you are right on a couple of points...my job is great fun. I get to examine great original items when working with museums, and then I often get to represent some of the bits and pieces on some of the miniatures for the collectibles market. Traveling to U.S., G.B. and European sites are also fun and they help connect me to the subjects that I have been lucky enough to work on. If you ever go to the Museum of the Civil War Soldier at Pamplin Park, VA...take a look at the 1/1 (fullscale) figures I did for that site. I made the figures from life casts of real people and dressed them with hand made reproductions of period clothing. All of the clothing was made and worn to break it in before the figures were dressed...then I added 'Mud' and 'Dust' to finish them up.
Deadlines are the hardest part, and once in a while they prevent us from going back and re-evaluating the models before they are put into production. I will honestly say that mistakes still get by, but we always try to avoid it a second time around. This has been hard working for some companys as they were not always interested in following known historical evidence for the prototypes, or did not develope series that supported later releases.
The next hardest thing to see is the actual production models, as they can have not only mistakes, but distortions. I have mentioned this before, but sometimes it happens, then you must adjust on models for future production. Sometimes I see a production model that is ruined by sloppy paint. A recent example here would be some of sets in the Corgi 1/50th figure range.
As far as new buildings? Yes I am working on a couple of projects for myself, that will include a limited production so a few others can get some. As these will be all US made and finished by me there will not be too many to go around...but don't look for anything anytime soon as I am pretty tied up with the W.Britains work. There will be additional buildings for their ACW and WWI/II line yet this year, along with a few more generic scenics. Most of these have been designed to use with most of the availible figures on the market, including the 1/30 ranges.

 

[Njja]

Ken:

Thanks for the insite, and keep us posted on your work. Every time I walk in

my Den the first thing I see is your Church Priory Courtyard and related

buildings with the paratroopers decending upon them. I can't wait to see any

new building you may creat when time permits!

Always a pleasure.

John A

 

[kilted vampire]

Just wanted Joel to know that Conte and one or two other manufacturers tried that whole lead pest crap on buyers awhile back ago. Most manufacturers are using pewter. Not only is it not as toxic, it has a lower melting temp so it is easier on the molds. Down side is it is more expensive.
BTW welcome to the addiction..er..ah.. I mean insanity uh.... forum