A question of a sticky nature..... (1 Viewer)

Rob

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Guys, am trying to find a glue that will stick polystyrene (or foam as my US friends call it) to hardboard. I find pva glue sometimes melts the poly/foam, anyone know of a make that sticks not melts???

Any help most gratefully accepted:smile2:

Rob
 
PVA melted the foam? Hmmm that is what I used. You may try hot glue

Thanks Scott, I read that some pva's do and some don't, but not sure you can tell by just reading the bottle?? Hot glue maybe the way forward.

Rob
 
Hi Rob,

Try Liquid Nails if they have it there. Or any other construction adhesive in a tube from the local hardware store like OBI or Castorama or Leroy Merlin not sure what you have in the UK. Hope this helps


Dave
 
Hi Rob,

Try Liquid Nails if they have it there. Or any other construction adhesive in a tube from the local hardware store like OBI or Castorama or Leroy Merlin not sure what you have in the UK. Hope this helps


Dave

Thanks Dave, we do have liquid nails over here......and I have some in the garage! So I'll try that first.:salute:: (I understand white Carpenters glue may work too)

Cheers mate

Rob
 
Rob, my friend keep it simple ,use white wood glue, it does the trick every time ( leave it to dry for at least 8 hours)
guy:)
 
Rob, my friend keep it simple ,use white wood glue, it does the trick every time ( leave it to dry for at least 8 hours)
guy:)

I agree, White or clear wood glue will solidly bond the Polystyrene without damaging it. Plus you have time to make adjustments of the bonded surfaces before the glue dries.
If ever a doubt when using paints, glues, etc. test it out on a spare piece of Polystyrene.
 
Guys, am trying to find a glue that will stick polystyrene (or foam as my US friends call it) to hardboard. I find pva glue sometimes melts the poly/foam, anyone know of a make that sticks not melts???

Any help most gratefully accepted:smile2:

Try Instant Grab Adhesive (solvent free) , £1.59 a tube from Wickes. I have used it only to stick Polystyrene to ply wood and its good stuff, dries off quite quickly.
 
Rob, my friend keep it simple ,use white wood glue, it does the trick every time ( leave it to dry for at least 8 hours)
guy:)

I agree, White or clear wood glue will solidly bond the Polystyrene without damaging it. Plus you have time to make adjustments of the bonded surfaces before the glue dries.
If ever a doubt when using paints, glues, etc. test it out on a spare piece of Polystyrene.

Guys, am trying to find a glue that will stick polystyrene (or foam as my US friends call it) to hardboard. I find pva glue sometimes melts the poly/foam, anyone know of a make that sticks not melts???

Any help most gratefully accepted:smile2:

Try Instant Grab Adhesive (solvent free) , £1.59 a tube from Wickes. I have used it only to stick Polystyrene to ply wood and its good stuff, dries off quite quickly.



Thanks to all you guys for your very kind replies, I now have several choices to try out on my new project. Your help is much appreciated my friends:salute::

Rob
 
Guys, just as a follow up, I've done experiments with liquid Nails, White wood glue and Wickes Grab adhesive and am pleased to say all work very well indeed with no melting.....so I am in fact spoilt for choice!:salute::

Thanks guys, so good this forum for getting friendly helpful advice, much appreciated

Rob
 
Guys, just as a follow up, I've done experiments with liquid Nails, White wood glue and Wickes Grab adhesive and am pleased to say all work very well indeed with no melting.....so I am in fact spoilt for choice!:salute::

Thanks guys, so good this forum for getting friendly helpful advice, much appreciated

Rob

I used to use Liquid Nails, which does work well.. however I prefer white wood glue (specifically Gorilla Glue). Either will get the job done.


Jim
 
Thanks Dave, we do have liquid nails over here......and I have some in the garage! So I'll try that first.:salute:: (I understand white Carpenters glue may work too)

Cheers mate

Rob


Make sure you use the latex Liguid Nails. It's called Liquid Nails for projects here and comes in a smaller tube so you don't need a chaulk gun. The other formulas will melt foam. White glue needs air to dry so if it's between two layers of foam it won't dry all the way. I learned this the hard way from my train layout building days.
 
Make sure you use the latex Liguid Nails. It's called Liquid Nails for projects here and comes in a smaller tube so you don't need a chaulk gun. The other formulas will melt foam. White glue needs air to dry so if it's between two layers of foam it won't dry all the way. I learned this the hard way from my train layout building days.

Oh that's very interesting re the white glue Paul. We have 'No more Nails' over here and that seems to have worked well as does the grab adhesive.

Best
Rob
 
Oh that's very interesting re the white glue Paul. We have 'No more Nails' over here and that seems to have worked well as does the grab adhesive.

Best
Rob

I had built a train layout for someone years ago. I carved mountains out of foam insulation panels. We had used Elmer's glue to adhere the large foam panels together. Two years later we were making some chances to the layout and the glue was still wet in from the edges when we took them apart. After that I did some research and this was a common problem.
 
Rob, my friend keep it simple ,use white wood glue, it does the trick every time ( leave it to dry for at least 8 hours)
guy:)

It's the best solution . I used it .

You can also use this glue diluted with water to make camouflage net . Drop a piece of medical gaze in it . Put it in form when still wet, wait untill it's dry, than it becomes rigid and you can paint it .
Like here ( done in the 70ies )
W-Other087b-Resized.jpg
 
Thanks guys, so far I'm finding the grab adhesive very good, goes off quickly and holds very well.

Rob
 
I had built a train layout for someone years ago. I carved mountains out of foam insulation panels. We had used Elmer's glue to adhere the large foam panels together. Two years later we were making some chances to the layout and the glue was still wet in from the edges when we took them apart. After that I did some research and this was a common problem.

this is true...it has happened to me several times also...if white glue doesn't get anough air on it...it will never dry...just like it never left the bottle...Liquid Nails project is the same way...it needs air on it to dry...if it's in a cavity...it will never dry...

I build a lot of foam buildings and I always use a hot glue gun...I like it because it dries completely in 15-30 seconds...so you can build a building as fast as you can cut your foam...

most glue guns have 2 settings...warm and hot...warm won't melt the foam...hot will melt the foam...

I use mine on hot...but I apply it to the tongue depressor size popsickle stick...let it cool about 5-10 seconds...and them smear it on the spot I want...it won't melt the foam if you let it cool enough...and it dries completely very fast...usually in 15 seconds or so...

I don't have the patience for the slow drying glues...the glue gun is the only way for me...

be careful on the hot setting...if you get it on your skin...it's like napalm...it won't rub off til it hardens...and will give you a heck of a burn followed by a heck of a blister...
 
this is true...it has happened to me several times also...if white glue doesn't get anough air on it...it will never dry...just like it never left the bottle...Liquid Nails project is the same way...it needs air on it to dry...if it's in a cavity...it will never dry...

I build a lot of foam buildings and I always use a hot glue gun...I like it because it dries completely in 15-30 seconds...so you can build a building as fast as you can cut your foam...

most glue guns have 2 settings...warm and hot...warm won't melt the foam...hot will melt the foam...

I use mine on hot...but I apply it to the tongue depressor size popsickle stick...let it cool about 5-10 seconds...and them smear it on the spot I want...it won't melt the foam if you let it cool enough...and it dries completely very fast...usually in 15 seconds or so...

I don't have the patience for the slow drying glues...the glue gun is the only way for me...

be careful on the hot setting...if you get it on your skin...it's like napalm...it won't rub off til it hardens...and will give you a heck of a burn followed by a heck of a blister...

Thanks for this Mike, I might have a go with one of these, although the dangers for someone as accident prone as I are scary!^&grin I managed to drop some melted cheese sauce straight from the oven on my hand the other week and man that burnt............can only imagine the pain of hot glue!{eek3}:salute::

Rob
 
Thanks for this Mike, I might have a go with one of these, although the dangers for someone as accident prone as I are scary!^&grin I managed to drop some melted cheese sauce straight from the oven on my hand the other week and man that burnt............can only imagine the pain of hot glue!{eek3}:salute::

Rob

I've tried cheese sauce Rob. Very good 'grab' properties, but it makes your building stink if it's not refridgerated.:smile2:
 
I've tried cheese sauce Rob. Very good 'grab' properties, but it makes your building stink if it's not refridgerated.:smile2:

^&grin^&grin

Well I was going for realism mate, I was going to do a scene involving French resistance fighting the Germans at a Brie factory!:salute::

Any chance you'll be in London in December Simon, sorry I missed catching up last time.:(

Rob
 

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