ACE-32 Airco DH.2...aka..."The Impossible Model" (2 Viewers)

[ivanmoe]

An incredible model for sure- with an equally incredible review and photos. Top job Moe :salute::

(With all the wealth of detail, my particular favourites are the Bag on the Lewis to catch the spent cartridges and the paint work on the stitching on the canvas fuselage sides.)
Really does look like they are actually stitched onto the model!

The DH2 for me is probably the most evocative plane of the WW1 Air war - a real "string bag"

Just wonderful..................

Thank you, Bill. Having posted several pics of the model, let me report a failing in my exposition. I tried to get a good pic of the cockpit, but the results were typically awful. I just can't get enough light into the cavity to allow my camera proper focus. At this point, I'm about ready to change my sig to the following:

Moe don't do cockpits!

Having come up short in an important regard, let me describe some of what I consider worthwhile regarding the interior detail on ACE-32...

The walls of the cockpit and structural components are the same gray color as the gondola, excepting the simulated canvas which is the same buff color as the external "canvas" covering. There's a nice seat painted khaki-brown. A black control-column with a brown handle sits atop it's associated hardware, and is positioned directly behind two brown rudder-pedals. Several mechanical controls are located on the sides of the cockpit, including a throttle-quadrant and a fuel valve. There's a black instrument-panel with three dialed-instruments. Blocking the panel from easy view is the very nice gun and bag that Roy described above.

I'm sure that I forgot something!:redface2:

-Moe

 

[chalklands]

Hi,
Great review Moe as always! Your photo's bring out detail my eyes wouldn't pick up!!

I received mine a couple of days ago, very pleased with it.

I have a question though; has anybody tried using it with a stand (using the extra bits included)? Is it just me, but it doesn't look to me that you can use both resin washers as there would be no thread left on the screw to attach to the model. Also, the undercarriage 'strut' (if that is what it is called) seems to be flush against the stand fixing if that makes sense. I'm worried that it it were too tight it may bend of snap the strut. Or have I fitted the stand incorrectly?

Pete

 

[ivanmoe]

Hi,
Great review Moe as always! Your photo's bring out detail my eyes wouldn't pick up!!

Thanks Pete!

I received mine a couple of days ago, very pleased with it.

Agreed, IMO, this one's definitely a cut above what we might expect to be able to purchase "off the shelf."

I have a question though; has anybody tried using it with a stand (using the extra bits included)? Is it just me, but it doesn't look to me that you can use both resin washers as there would be no thread left on the screw to attach to the model. Also, the undercarriage 'strut' (if that is what it is called) seems to be flush against the stand fixing if that makes sense. I'm worried that it it were too tight it may bend of snap the strut. Or have I fitted the stand incorrectly?

Pete, I haven't looked at this. However, I'm thinking that you might be able to resolve the issue by reorienting the model on the stand. Tell me, are you trying to do this with the model pointed to the front or rear of the stand? If you've got it pointed to the rear, try reorienting it to the front. There's what sounds like a similar problem with the Fokker Dr1 + stand combo, BTW. Let us know what you find out!

-Moe

 

[ivanmoe]

Hi,
Great review Moe as always! Your photo's bring out detail my eyes wouldn't pick up!!

I received mine a couple of days ago, very pleased with it.

I have a question though; has anybody tried using it with a stand (using the extra bits included)? Is it just me, but it doesn't look to me that you can use both resin washers as there would be no thread left on the screw to attach to the model. Also, the undercarriage 'strut' (if that is what it is called) seems to be flush against the stand fixing if that makes sense. I'm worried that it it were too tight it may bend of snap the strut. Or have I fitted the stand incorrectly?

Pete

Hi Pete,

Part 2...found JJ's pic of the model on a stand. Is your model setup like the one below?

-Moe

 

[chalklands]

Hi Pete,

Part 2...found JJ's pic of the model on a stand. Is your model setup like the one below?

-Moe

H Moe,
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply to my post. It is now! With the other models it is possible to display in any direction, but I think with this one it can only be set up in one direction, otherwise the undercarriage strut gets in the way.

Thanks again

Pete

 

[ivanmoe]

H Moe,
Thanks for taking the trouble to reply to my post. It is now! With the other models it is possible to display in any direction, but I think with this one it can only be set up in one direction, otherwise the undercarriage strut gets in the way.

Thanks again

Pete

You're certainly welcome, and glad you've got her airborne!

For our other readers (and for posterity), the issue that Pete raises also occurs with the Dr.1 model + stand. A lot of us like to display these models with the back of the stand to the front. This allows for figures or vehicles to be displayed on the stand's base. However, that won't work with the Dr.1 and DH.2, because the UC will run afoul of the stand mounting. Put more simply, in all but these two instances, the models can be posed in a full 360 degree arc on JJ's stands. BUT, in the case of these two models, the arc is reduced to something under 150 degrees and the model MUST be oriented to the front of the stand.

-Moe

 

[chalklands]

You're certainly welcome, and glad you've got her airborne!

For our other readers (and for posterity), the issue that Pete raises also occurs with the Dr.1 model + stand. A lot of us like to display these models with the back of the stand to the front. This allows for figures or vehicles to be displayed on the stand's base. However, that won't work with the Dr.1 and DH.2, because the UC will run afoul of the stand mounting. Put more simply, in all but these two instances, the models can be posed in a full 360 degree arc on JJ's stands. BUT, in the case of these two models, the arc is reduced to something under 150 degrees and the model MUST be oriented to the front of the stand.

-Moe

Hi Moe,
After some experimentation, it is possible to display the model in either direction by placing the thin washer on top of the stand (I'm not sure about the thicker washer as that doesn't seem to leave too much screw thread visible to screw into the model and may not be as secure).

So the order of assembly is: Stand, thin washer, tube, model.

I think It's also easier handling the model fixed to the stand (as long as it's secure), as you can hold the stand and not the model (lots of delicate rigging)

Pete

 

[ivanmoe]

Hi Moe,
After some experimentation, it is possible to display the model in either direction by placing the thin washer on top of the stand (I'm not sure about the thicker washer as that doesn't seem to leave too much screw thread visible to screw into the model and may not be as secure).

So the order of assembly is: Stand, thin washer, tube, model.

I think It's also easier handling the model fixed to the stand (as long as it's secure), as you can hold the stand and not the model (lots of delicate rigging)

Pete

Thanks for the info, Pete. We'll have to take a look at the Fokker Tripe and see if the extension screw and sleeve help with that one as well.

-Moe