Applying Matt finish to gloss figures, doesn't always work (1 Viewer)

N

nmrocks

2nd Lieutenant
Joined
Aug 6, 2005
Messages
3,629
As much as I love JB's beautifully done high gloss works, I have found a glossy reflection to be a bit of a hinderence to seeing and photographing and I hope it's not just my old eyes! :p
So I have been giving my sets a spray coat of dull coat or Matt finish, I've found that a flat lacquer works best. However regardless of the brand or number of coats there are some particular painted figures that will not dull! Is it some coating on these particular painted figures that resist the matting properties of the lacquer?
I would like to hear from some of the masters here.
Ray
 
Ray...

Walmart sells 2 different brands...

one is Testor's dull coat...

the other is Krylon Matte...

the Testors works much better...much more of a matte finish...

while the Krylon leaves a "satin" finish on the figures...

but it's quite a difference...

try the Testor's spray...
 
mikemiller1955 said:
Ray...

Walmart sells 2 different brands...

one is Testor's dull coat...

the other is Krylon Matte...

the Testors works much better...much more of a matte finish...

while the Krylon leaves a "satin" finish on the figures...

but it's quite a difference...

try the Testor's spray...
Click to expand...

Hi Mike,
This is my experience exactly but I have been using the Model Masters spray made by testors. But that is the remarkable thing, these figure which I purchased many years ago will not lose the high luster regardless of the brand or even 5 or 6 coats! {eek3}
Ray
 
nmrocks said:
Hi Mike,
This is my experience exactly but I have been using the Model Masters spray made by testors. But that is the remarkable thing, these figure which I purchased many years ago will not lose the high luster regardless of the brand or even 5 or 6 coats! {eek3}
Ray
Click to expand...

See............even your figures refuse to de-gloss! :wink2: jb
 
nmrocks said:
Hi Mike,
This is my experience exactly but I have been using the Model Masters spray made by testors. But that is the remarkable thing, these figure which I purchased many years ago will not lose the high luster regardless of the brand or even 5 or 6 coats! {eek3}
Ray
Click to expand...

Hi Ray,

Perhaps the gloss varnish finish is not compatible with the spray on lacquer?

I had a bad experience of trying to spray on some new fangled-gloss varnish over previously varnished furniture. The spray on started to bubble and clump up!!!

I worry about your 5-6 coats. Desist!


Rgds Victor
 
blaster said:
Hi Ray,

Perhaps the gloss varnish finish is not compatible with the spray on lacquer?

I had a bad experience of trying to spray on some new fangled-gloss varnish over previously varnished furniture. The spray on started to bubble and clump up!!!

I worry about your 5-6 coats. Desist!


Rgds Victor
Click to expand...

Hello Victor,
I'm not making a habit of multiple coats, just tried it on a single figure to no avail, I've even tried brush on Vallejo flat, totally resistant
Ray
 
johnnybach said:
See............even your figures refuse to de-gloss! :wink2: jb
Click to expand...

I have been humbled by glosses resistance and blinded by it's reflected brilliance!
Oh the devilry of this magic!
Seems I must concede this point to the Glossy Master Blaster....Well played sir!
Ray
 
nmrocks said:
I have been humbled by glosses resistance and blinded by it's reflected brilliance!
Oh the devilry of this magic!
Seems I must concede this point to the Glossy Master Blaster....Well played sir!
Ray
Click to expand...


Gloss is Boss!:salute:::rolleyes2:
 
Some pictures here of before and after

http://www.hobbyhovel.com/2010/08/tips-and-tricks-spraying-flat-top-coat-on-unpainted-models.html


I used Mr. Top Coat (Flat/Matt) before but it turns out semi-gloss not matt {eek3} . Anyway I am not a modeller ^&grin


The three big choices are the Mr. Top Coat (Flat/Matt), Mr. Super Clear (Flat), and the Tamiya Modeller TS-80.


How to Spray

The short answer would be “push down on the spray nozzle”, but you knew that already, didn’t you? So here’s the long version:
◾Dip your spray can in hot water for a few minutes. I forget where I got this tip from, nor do I remember why this is helpful, but I think this makes the spray mist a little finer due to the heat’s ability to make the particles in the can more excited (did I get that right? It’s been a while since my elementary science classes).
◾Hold your models around 20-30cm away and flick your wrists back and forth while spraying. This is not precision work, so go nuts. If you spray the parts too closely, you risk the chance of producing a milky fog on the surface of your model.
◾Spray continuously for a few seconds at a time, not in short bursts. Shake the can well before each spray to get even results.
◾You don’t have to spray your model piece by piece, but it is a good idea to at least separate the model into several smaller components (e.g. arms, legs, torso, backpack [if large enough]) to avoid excessive obstructions.
◾Let your parts dry before spraying another coat. You don’t want your parts to be dripping. How much you want to spray is completely up to you – just make sure the parts are evenly coated.
◾Make sure to set down the freshly-sprayed parts in a safe manner (i.e. don’t set down a wet part flat against another surface). The coat dries within minutes, so it would be reasonable just to hold onto the part in your hand for a while to have it dry a little.
◾If you are planning to use decals on your model, make sure you apply them before the applying flat top coat. Decals like smooth and even surfaces, and the rough finish that flat top coat leaves would cause major if you need to apply decals on top of that.
 
Ray,

What figures are applying the matte finish to?

I suspect that if they were painted in full gloss enamel I don't think a matte finish is going to work.

From my experience it works best going from matte to gloss not gloss to matte.

Might be time for a repaint.:)

Scott
 
Ray,

I meant by the last post that I think the physical thickness of the gloss coat has some affect on any subsequent finish.

Scott.
 
DM101 said:
Some pictures here of before and after

http://www.hobbyhovel.com/2010/08/tips-and-tricks-spraying-flat-top-coat-on-unpainted-models.html


I used Mr. Top Coat (Flat/Matt) before but it turns out semi-gloss not matt {eek3} . Anyway I am not a modeller ^&grin


The three big choices are the Mr. Top Coat (Flat/Matt), Mr. Super Clear (Flat), and the Tamiya Modeller TS-80.


How to Spray

The short answer would be “push down on the spray nozzle”, but you knew that already, didn’t you? So here’s the long version:
◾Dip your spray can in hot water for a few minutes. I forget where I got this tip from, nor do I remember why this is helpful, but I think this makes the spray mist a little finer due to the heat’s ability to make the particles in the can more excited (did I get that right? It’s been a while since my elementary science classes).
◾Hold your models around 20-30cm away and flick your wrists back and forth while spraying. This is not precision work, so go nuts. If you spray the parts too closely, you risk the chance of producing a milky fog on the surface of your model.
◾Spray continuously for a few seconds at a time, not in short bursts. Shake the can well before each spray to get even results.
◾You don’t have to spray your model piece by piece, but it is a good idea to at least separate the model into several smaller components (e.g. arms, legs, torso, backpack [if large enough]) to avoid excessive obstructions.
◾Let your parts dry before spraying another coat. You don’t want your parts to be dripping. How much you want to spray is completely up to you – just make sure the parts are evenly coated.
◾Make sure to set down the freshly-sprayed parts in a safe manner (i.e. don’t set down a wet part flat against another surface). The coat dries within minutes, so it would be reasonable just to hold onto the part in your hand for a while to have it dry a little.
◾If you are planning to use decals on your model, make sure you apply them before the applying flat top coat. Decals like smooth and even surfaces, and the rough finish that flat top coat leaves would cause major if you need to apply decals on top of that.
Click to expand...

Thanks DM,
This is pretty straight forward and the way I've been doing, I would say about 96% of the time it's fine but there are a handful of figures I purchased years ago from a gentleman or 2 in Europe that are Truly resistant to an applied matt finish.
Ray
 
Hazebrouck said:
Ray,

What figures are applying the matte finish to?

I suspect that if they were painted in full gloss enamel I don't think a matte finish is going to work.

From my experience it works best going from matte to gloss not gloss to matte.

Might be time for a repaint.:)

Scott
Click to expand...

Thank you Scott,
I think you may have been on the mark here, for the most part the 30mm flats I have purchased are done in a semi-gloss but there are a handful that have a Very high gloss, perhap enamel vs. acrylic?
Ray
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2024 XenForo Ltd.
Back
Top