Battle damaged Cuirassier (1 Viewer)

John fantastic thread 10/10......im also glad its here in the "how to section" or i might have missed it.
 
Superb job John,
I must try and use one of them there drill bits without skwering my finger.
 
I'll be posting some more soon, as I have another trooper wanting his sword scabbard re-attached, and thats another new method I can show you.

John
 
John, Do you ever use solder to do repairs?

I recently did a sword repair on one of my damaged figures and I find that soldering works great because the joint is as strong or stronger than the original metal.

Chuck
 
skeeterbuck said:
John, Do you ever use solder to do repairs?

I recently did a sword repair on one of my damaged figures and I find that soldering works great because the joint is as strong or stronger than the original metal.

Chuck
Click to expand...
How do you get it to be strong and small enough to fit a sword repair?
 
Chuck,

I have tried solder, but I've not had any luck with that, as I usually melt the metal of the figure. Maybe I've got the soldering iron too hot?

I also do leadlight windows and that solder is fine, so I assume that its the composition of the metal being not lead but an alloy of lead/tin (pewter) that causes my problems.

I'll stick with cold Supa Glue :)

John
 
Spitfrnd said:
How do you get it to be strong and small enough to fit a sword repair?
Click to expand...

The last one I did the sword was broken off at the hilt. I cleaned and squared off both edges of the break area with a flat needle file. Then using a clamp called a extra hand, I align both pieces exactly as I want them. Them I apply a drop of mild acid flux to the joint.

Using a tempature controlled soldering iron set on medium (approximately 10-15 watts), I put a small amount of low temp solder on the tip and then just touch it to the break area, them immediately remove it. If I'm lucky, the joint is almost instantly fused and they is a little excess build up at the joined area. I them remove the figure form the clamps and lightly stress the joint area to be sure the joint is strong.

I file off any excess solder and smooth the area until the joint is invisible. I them wash the figure with mild soap and water to completely remove any flux, fillings etc. After it dries, I prime and repaint the area.

I admit that this type of repain takes some pratice. I would recommend getting some junk very damaged figure and try them first. Many years ago. I started with Britain hollowcast figures and they were very tricky. :eek:

Chuck
 
Chuck,

thanks for your advice on soldering.

I think that my iron was too hot, and I didn't use low temp solder, so I melted the parts.
I'll investigate getting a new soldiering iron this week, and then try some over the holiday period, when I've got some time off. No worries about figures to work on, as I can cast some at home from Prince August Moulds, and if I mess up, they go back into the metal pot and recast :)

Maybe when you some more repairs to do, you can post a thread in this section on soldering, I'd love to see that done!

regards,

John
 
Obee said:
Chuck,

thanks for your advice on soldering.

I think that my iron was too hot, and I didn't use low temp solder, so I melted the parts.
I'll investigate getting a new soldiering iron this week, and then try some over the holiday period, when I've got some time off. No worries about figures to work on, as I can cast some at home from Prince August Moulds, and if I mess up, they go back into the metal pot and recast :)

Maybe when you some more repairs to do, you can post a thread in this section on soldering, I'd love to see that done!

regards,

John
Click to expand...
So would I. It sounds really promising but perhaps somewhat daunting as well.;)
 
Obee said:
Chuck,

thanks for your advice on soldering.

I think that my iron was too hot, and I didn't use low temp solder, so I melted the parts.
I'll investigate getting a new soldiering iron this week, and then try some over the holiday period, when I've got some time off. No worries about figures to work on, as I can cast some at home from Prince August Moulds, and if I mess up, they go back into the metal pot and recast :)

Maybe when you some more repairs to do, you can post a thread in this section on soldering, I'd love to see that done!

regards,

John
Click to expand...


John, I planned on doing just that and took some pics but somehow between downloading them to the computer to a file so I could post them, they got lost. I not the most computer savvy guy to begin with.

Since then, I just seem to forget to take any pics until AFTER I'm done soldering. Hopefully, I get my act together to get some clear pics to try and show you all. FYI this is the solder and flux I use.


http://www.langley-models.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Solder__Glue___Fillers_100.html

NOTE: Page down on the link to see the low melt solder sticks and liquid flux.

Chuck
 
skeeterbuck said:
John, I planned on doing just that and took some pics but somehow between downloading them to the computer to a file so I could post them, they got lost. I not the most computer savvy guy to begin with.

Since then, I just seem to forget to take any pics until AFTER I'm done soldering. Hopefully, I get my act together to get some clear pics to try and show you all. FYI this is the solder and flux I use.


http://www.langley-models.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Solder__Glue___Fillers_100.html

NOTE: Page down on the link to see the low melt solder sticks and liquid flux.

Chuck
Click to expand...
Clearly I don't know anything about soldering. What is the flux for, I thought you just melted the solder with an iron. What do you suggest for that BTW?
 
Spitfrnd said:
Clearly I don't know anything about soldering. What is the flux for, I thought you just melted the solder with an iron. What do you suggest for that BTW?
Click to expand...


The flux helps clean the metal. Oxidation on the metal, no matter how little will hinder the transfer of heat fron the tip of the soldering iron to the metal. With soldering, the cleaner the metal the easier to flow the solder and the neater and stronger you joint will be.

Soldering in a low temp version of welding. ;)

Chuck
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2024 XenForo Ltd.
Back
Top