Blockhouse full Roof (1 Viewer)

[RISORGIMENTO]

Handling my Jenkins sets searching new display ways, I thought to craft a proper full roof for its Blockhouse to hide the division line between the parts.
I know the original is stunning mainly when displayed up against the shelf back, this is just an enjoyable conversion.
I hopeful expect our skilled John to release some new frontier buildings and among these the lodging of the recent Blacksmith.
Carlo

 

[thebritfarmer]

WOW !!

That look slike it was crafted by John himself. :salute::

 

[mikemiller1955]

Carlo...that is perfect...your seamless roof looks great...I think John needs to move you from Italy to Hong Kong and get you on his payroll...fantastic job on the shingles...

 

[mikemiller1955]

and yes...a small blacksmith shop would look great inside my fort...I know it would make Fraxinus very happy....

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

thanks Mike,
I'd be very proud but I believe that my 'cat-woman' Paulina would not be too happy to move so far!
...I forgot to add to my wants a Tavern with loads of rum of course,
ciao

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

thank you very much Thebritfarmer,
we are just keen pupils of a great teacher!
With the same spirit I tried to made this stockade, may be you enjoy...

 

[mikemiller1955]

Great job on the stockade walls Carlos...

you're a fantastic model maker...they look really good...

did Paulina get into your rum...she looks pretty relaxed...^&grin

 

[Fraxinus]

Wonderful work, simply wonderful. It really does look like an original roof. I could use 2 please. In my display case, the Blockhouse is also closed. With all the surrounding figues and scenery, opening it to show off the interior is really a non-option. I have learned to live with the seams.

Carlo, if you get ever want to build a stockade wall or an earth-filled bastion wall, there is a page of illustrations in the below text that would be very helpful in both design and the actual construction. Or you can very carefully review the visual tour of the Fort Ligonier website that I recently posted.

http://www.pabookstore.com/frandinwarin.html

 

[thebritfarmer]

I am speechless, that is just fantastic. You should be working for John !!!

as for the black smithy and tavern.............great ideas but I am sure that you could make an equally great job of them.

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

thank you Ken,
I'll look for the book, I'm very interested.
In the meantime I'll make a second roof trying to speed up the work, to shingle the roof takes a lot of time... could I set up an assembly line!!

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

Ken,
as a great fortification connoisseur I submit you this stockade version with the inner platform. This requires more work but may be more correct. I have seen these duckboards in many pictures of early forts.
Thanks for the suggestions

 

[Fraxinus]

Much Better!!!!

Now anyone standing on the outside of the wall cannot use the opening to fire inside as the openings are too high on the wall. Generally, the bottom of the opening would be 6 feet, or better yet, 6 1/2 feet above the ground level, as determined from OUTSIDE the wall. Actually, with the bottom of the window opening at 6-foot in height, it makes it awkward for anyone outside the wall to even see inside the fort, unless they are exceedingly tall,

The same would be true of the first floor of a blockhouse. You can see high window openings on the Barzo blockhouses. A distinct safety advantage for those people who are engaged in or whose sole job is to reload muskets.

In many blockhouses, especially those blockhouses that are isolated and do not have a surrounding palisade wall, there would be a stout palisade wall right in front of the door leading into the blockhouse. Often it would shaped as an Capital - L shape.

This would prevent a battering ram, swung log, or a crowd from beating on the door. There would be no room in front of the door, to swing or gain momentum.

 

[mikemiller1955]

that looks nice Carlos...can you show a picture of an unfished dowel and tell me what size you buy them in...length and diameter...

 

[Fraxinus]

Often with palisade walls, there would be a smaller log, really a sapling, placed in the saddle between the larger logs.

These smaller saplings would be much shorter in height than the larger logs. The height of these saplings would match the bottom of the musket openings - 6 or 6 1/2feet off the ground as measured from the outside.

Placed in the saddle between the larger logs, this would effectively block anyone from outside seeing between poorly fitted larger logs. While at the same time, anyone standing on the inside of the wall on a platform or raised mound can look outside as these saplings only extend to a height of 4 1/2 to 5 feet above the platform height.

As the larger logs do not have to perfectly butt up against each other to seal any opening, this second log allows for a much less refined and finished wall construction -- sloppier work.

Check out this link, particularly the 3rd and 6th pictures in the bottom row (full row)

http://fortligonier.org/photo_gallery.php

The 6th picture in the first row shows double-wall construction (earth filled) with the butt-ends of the frequent cross members. With double wall construction it is the cross members that give the wall it's structural rigidity and it allows lap joints or even butt joints instead of the more difficult and precise saddle joints (Lincoln Logs).

The 5th row, 4th picture is also very good at showing double wall construction.

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

Mike,
here you find a couple of pictures of the stockade with platform and dowels. The european size is 30mm high, diameter 8mm. I use those ready to fit the furniture sidewalls.
I took also some pictures to compare the soldiers level in front and behind the stockade, I think this clarifying of Fraxinus words. At last a nice picture G. Clark defends a stockade.
Saluti a tutti.....

 

[mikemiller1955]

Carlo...thanks for the info on the size of the dowels...again...your work is quite spectacular and very precise...I like that you took the time to texture the logs and give them a more realistic look...they look very sturdy...how did you adhere them...glue?

and yes...the painting you posted is very nice...

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

Yes Mike, I learned the lesson.
From my first Blockhouse (do you remember?…) now I spend a lot of time scratching my logs, the first were too smooth. Then I stick them together with normal wood glue or more strong when needs (here named ‘Cianacrilato’).
Painting is done by an acrylic base with tempera shading, at last an airbrush touch where necessary.
Really I have to learn to give to these items much wartime appearance, uneven and less tidy!
Carlo

 

[Fraxinus]

Carlo,

How are you texturing the log surfaces? They look great. The photo of the "Ticonderoga" figures outside the wall with the French marines and miltia inside speak volumes.

Thanks

 

[RISORGIMENTO]

Ken,
for the walls I use a big rasp like that in the picture… really few minutes later I have arm and hand hurt but the passion is stronger!
In the meantime I progressed with the palisade and crafted a couple of ‘S’ pieces to build a bastion stockade. This time I put the platform boards horizontally. In the following bare setting you can see the final outcome.

At left you a new attempt of an all wooden Blockhouse is present.
Ciao.

 

[thebritfarmer]

That is cool !! Bellissimo :salute:::salute::