German WW2 castings? (5 Viewers)

pwalms said:
Anyone know of German WW2 castings out there (c/w K and C)
Paul
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What are you looking for? I have some I can make for you. Motorcycle combos with riders, officer in long coat soldier firing in long coat, throwing grenade, and marching slung rifle
 
I use a pointed toothpick for the black dot KV. I have had success with a very fine sharpie marker as well.
 
thebritfarmer said:
Forgot to say Figures look good by the way :cool:
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KV.... I have helpful hint I have found working well for doing eyes. First, I found that working with the figure ** upside down ** helps. That way you're painting down into something versus painting up into something. Think of painting the baseboard around a floor versus painting *up* the walls to a ceiling. Using a 000 brush, I make 2 black dashes in the eye socket area. Then, I use light, light grey or more recently, light, light 'linen' (all craft paints). It was a suggestion from my wife who found the white to be a bit startling. I then "cut" the black line with the light color. That way, if the black is a bit thick, no matter. You know have a thin black line and a much thicker light one, horizontal striped. Now, here's the kicker. Instead of a dot, which seems impossible, I then go vertical from the middle of the black line, with black or dark blue, making a short "T" After that, just go horizontal again with the flesh colour and as they say, trim to size. It looks a mess, sort of dripping down but then painting horizontal, you can work your way up to the thickness that's best.
Tomorrow, I'll tell you how to make that rifle turn out on the standing/firing guy....
 
Gneisenau said:
KV.... I have helpful hint I have found working well for doing eyes. First, I found that working with the figure ** upside down ** helps. That way you're painting down into something versus painting up into something. Think of painting the baseboard around a floor versus painting *up* the walls to a ceiling. Using a 000 brush, I make 2 black dashes in the eye socket area. Then, I use light, light grey or more recently, light, light 'linen' (all craft paints). It was a suggestion from my wife who found the white to be a bit startling. I then "cut" the black line with the light color. That way, if the black is a bit thick, no matter. You know have a thin black line and a much thicker light one, horizontal striped. Now, here's the kicker. Instead of a dot, which seems impossible, I then go vertical from the middle of the black line, with black or dark blue, making a short "T" After that, just go horizontal again with the flesh colour and as they say, trim to size. It looks a mess, sort of dripping down but then painting horizontal, you can work your way up to the thickness that's best.
Tomorrow, I'll tell you how to make that rifle turn out on the standing/firing guy....
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Thanks gregg I keep forgetting that technique. It works pretty good for you then? I learned it a little bit different but, I suspect your way might be a little bit better.
 
I received 3 molds today. I got the standing German firing MP 38/40, the US standing/firing M3, and the German kneeling/firing panzerfaust. All 3 are absolutely stupendous. Not a flaw in the group. Any usual Dutkins errors were eliminated in these molds. The weapons are slightly over-sized so the barrels cast all the way to the end of the muzzle. The straps of the weapons, sculpted hanging came out easily, no problems. All 3 were free of any defects in the molds and that includes any pitting (usually in the abdomen area or on great coats or along belts), misdirected pieces....I can't say enough good things about them. If I could be slightly picky (and this is digging), the gas mask on the Germans seems added as an afterthought. Also, there is no ejection port on the M3 (easily added). Even the slightly leaning back stance, which is !@$!ardization of the rifle figures works with these guys. The appear to be leaning from recoil. One piece castings, no epoxying...immediate gratification.
 
Gneisenau said:
I received 3 molds today. I got the standing German firing MP 38/40, the US standing/firing M3, and the German kneeling/firing panzerfaust. All 3 are absolutely stupendous. Not a flaw in the group. Any usual Dutkins errors were eliminated in these molds. The weapons are slightly over-sized so the barrels cast all the way to the end of the muzzle. The straps of the weapons, sculpted hanging came out easily, no problems. All 3 were free of any defects in the molds and that includes any pitting (usually in the abdomen area or on great coats or along belts), misdirected pieces....I can't say enough good things about them. If I could be slightly picky (and this is digging), the gas mask on the Germans seems added as an afterthought. Also, there is no ejection port on the M3 (easily added). Even the slightly leaning back stance, which is !@$!ardization of the rifle figures works with these guys. The appear to be leaning from recoil. One piece castings, no epoxying...immediate gratification.
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Hey I thought you were going to tell me how to get the rifle barrel to come out better. Glad to here about the castings. I thought pitting was kind of a fact of life with metal pieces. That they just have to be polished out?
 
kilted vampire said:
Hey I thought you were going to tell me how to get the rifle barrel to come out better. Glad to here about the castings. I thought pitting was kind of a fact of life with metal pieces. That they just have to be polished out?
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The key on the rifle barrel is that if you look at the mold, the rifle doesn't actually exist beyond the stub that is the primary barrel band at the end. Here's what I did..(not for the meek of heart). I trenched with an X-acto knife a proportionate length of barrel in the mold, then, using the hand/rifle combination that comes with the WWI advancing German, I cut enough of the rifle to fit into his cheek and trimmed off part of the hand (left) that goes where the new hand will form. I now have about 1/2 to 2/3 of the Kar98 from the WWI mold in the German mold. Since it's really the same rifle (Rich reuses the parts..or rather, his sculptor does), I then slide the rifle in the mold until the appropriate parts line up (barrel band at end and thickened barrel by the breech/bolt assembly). Put the other half on and cast around it. Mostly what happens is that the left hand melts and fuses with the end of the barrel, the middle stays intact, and the end by his cheek melts and fuses. Wait a little bit and voilà! Complete German. You can also use the end of the barrel from the kneeling/firing WW1 German **or** the complete rifle from the WWI Cavalry rider. Some of those cavalry guys are good to have because the mold is really worth more for having the parts.. Good sources are M1 Garand (Rowers from raft), Jar (Cavalry rider), Springfield rifle (US Mule handler), Martini-Henry (wounded Zulu kneeling over (includes bayonet), or marching 24th foot (no bayonet), !st Series ACW Rider Confederate with pistol (rifle in scabbard..good for motorcycle troops/FFL officer) and rolled blanket. Second series ACW Union firing pistol (cavalry sword in scabbard and kepi head (separate).
The pitting is due to the vulcanization process somehow. I haven't figure it out yet but it seems to occur in the middle so my guess is moisture that can't escape or uneven pressure.
 
Did you order the new molds yet? Oh...another thing that hit me about the German(s)...it took me a bit to figure it out...on the MP 38/40, there is this little bump on the inverse side of the sight. If the weapon is fired over the top of a vehicle (say a half-track) or out a firing port, it helps reduce the chance that the recoil or a bump in the ground, etc. will allow the weapon to accidentally move inside while the infantryman is firing. It's missing. I'll have to see if I can cut the mold slightly to allow for the casting of that part.
 
Gneisenau said:
...on the MP 38/40, there is this little bump on the inverse side of the sight. If the weapon is fired over the top of a vehicle (say a half-track) or out a firing port, it helps reduce the chance that the recoil or a bump in the ground, etc. will allow the weapon to accidentally move inside while the infantryman is firing.
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Never knew that. Thanks for the info.

Simon
 
Gneisenau said:
Did you order the new molds yet? Oh...another thing that hit me about the German(s)...it took me a bit to figure it out...on the MP 38/40, there is this little bump on the inverse side of the sight. If the weapon is fired over the top of a vehicle (say a half-track) or out a firing port, it helps reduce the chance that the recoil or a bump in the ground, etc. will allow the weapon to accidentally move inside while the infantryman is firing. It's missing. I'll have to see if I can cut the mold slightly to allow for the casting of that part.
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I ordered the first set and I got so many calls I ordered more. Bands and soon pipes. and more WWII stuff. Would like to see a picture of the recoil bump.
 
I did. They are great. You gave me some ideas on painting that I did not have. The marching DAK for instance.
 
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