Greenstuff? What other fillers are you using with figures? (1 Viewer)

[Hazebrouck]

I'm working on some dragon 1/35 figures and filled some cracks with my trusted old tube of Squadron Signal Greenstuff earlier today.

The thing about Greenstuff is that it smells and I have always found it difficult to apply as it is quite dry. I normally push it into gaps with a toothpick or apply it with my finger (covered in surgical gloves or glad wrap).

I have used it on metal figures I have constructed, but have found that the good castings don't need much additional filling if I use ample araldite.

I should say that I persevere with the Greenstuff as it sand wells and adheres to the figures.

Am I behind the times? What other fillers are figure builders/painters using?

Any application tips with Greenstuff?

Scott

 

[theBaron]

Hi, Scott!

On my metal figures, I've used Milliput, and also, wood putty-Elmer's is our brand up here, made by Borden, but I'm sure there's a similar product available in Oz. Neither of those two have any fumes, at least, the wood filler doesn't. If Milliput does give off any fumes, I don't notice them, though I think the label does suggest using gloves when handling the putty. But I'm using up the last of my supply, and I probably won't get any more.

I also have used solder. But most frequently, I've used slow-flowing CA glue or 2-part epoxy.

On plastic models, I use Squadron's white putty, thinned with acetone.

For sculpting, I've picked up Aves 2-part modeling epoxy, which can also be used for filling gaps, but I haven't tried it yet for that purpose.

Hope that helps!

Prost!
Brad

 

[Wraith]

I also use Squadron green stuff (and more recently, whitestuff, as it's an easier base to paint on to).
Still like it for the reasons already mentioned.

Simon

 

[johnnybach]

Answer - mostly whatever I can get!

Milliput - mostly - but I have also used a product called "No Nails". It is meant to be a fixer of things to other things - but works well as a filler too. In France it is called "Ni Clou - Ni Vis" (No nails - no screws). Dries quickly - and wipes clean with a damp tissue. It's cheap as chips - and fills in joints beautifully - then accepts paint perfectly too. jb

 

[Hazebrouck]

Thanks Gents,

I will give Milliput a go as it appears to be available down here. They also sell a wax carving and sculpting kit, the sculpting tools of which look useful for applying the filler to areas my fingers are too large to reach effectively. The problem I have is containing it directly to the joint.

I gather you guys use the standard Yellow Grey Putty?

Johnny,

'No more nails' is used in the building industry here. I have seen a builder using it but it never crossed my mind to use it as a filler for soldiers. I can see some advantages to cleaning up the excess with a wet cloth. When I get brave I will give it a try!

Back to the workbench!

Scott

 

[johnnybach]

Hey - Scott - or even a wet finger - wipes away the excess - and it dries and shrinks into the joint a little bit too. Within an hour it's solid and you can paint it!

Where I am - you use whatever you can get!! - so I often experiment. Milliput IS the biz though! jb.

 

[Hazebrouck]

Coming back to this thread after a while. Recently I purchased some Citadel Liquid Greenstuff in a bottle and have had the chance to try it out during the last few days on some figures. The chief benefit I have noticed (and the reason I started this thread) being that this product is a brush on type filler. I applied it to some seams on the figure below and you can work it into the joint tidily and easily with a brush.

I allowed it 24 hours to dry and it sanded back nicely. The other thing I like about it is that it cleans in water and doesn't have those toxic smells of the Squadron Greenstuff. Can't comment as to how it takes paint yet, but hope it is of some interest!

 

[theBaron]

Interesting stuff, Scott. It sounds a little similar to Mr. Surfacer in its results, except that Mr. Surfacer needs lacquer thinner to clean up, and also, its thickest grade is still too thin to use fill most gaps, it's more for seams.

Prost!
Brad

 

[binder001]

My current favorite filler for figures is Kneadatite two-part epoxy. I have posted photos of a number of my conversions on this forum and in the Gallery. Most of these have Kneadatite in varying amounts. I have used this for all kinds of applications. Biggest complaint is that (like most epoxies) it fills your files or sanding sticks faster than other fillers.

Gary B.

 

[Hazebrouck]

Kneadatite is what Games Workshop marks up, repackages, and sells as Greenstuff. What they've done to it to make it liquid, I can't guess. Personally, I like to use Apoxie Sculpt for filling and sculpting. It's also a 2-part epoxie, but doesn't have Kneadatite's chewing gum in texture.

The naming is confusing as this liquid green stuff is more similar to the Squadron green putty (I've always known as greenstuff) than the two part epoxy greenstuff that they sell.

Scott

 

[Martin Tabony]

I always use miliput but does any one else remember when you had to make your own filler, by melting plastic sprue in paint stripper!

Martin

 

[theBaron]

I always use miliput but does any one else remember when you had to make your own filler, by melting plastic sprue in paint stripper!

Martin

A lot of scale modelers still do, on the theory that the resulting filler is made of the same material as the surrounding pieces, and so, it should react the same to sanding, priming, etc. It's also useful to use stretched sprue and liquid cement to fill fine seams or gaps, for the same reason.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Dave-LC]

I use Aves 2-part apoxie which is similar to milliput but in my opinion is easier to work with and lasts longer in the packaging.

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Although I agree with Dave that the Aves material is very good, I almost exclusively use Magic Sculpt for all sculpting, conversions and filling.
You will find that the Magic Sculpt is easy to shape when curing, and easy to sand, carve, mill or drill when completely cured.
The figures pictured below are made almost entirely from Magic Sculpt, except for the few parts in light yellow buff that are resin copies of earlier parts which were also made from Magic Sculpt. I rarely need to do any further carving or shaping after it is cured because the material can be shaped very precisely as it is hardening.

All the Best,
Ken Osen

 

[Martin Tabony]

Although I agree with Dave that the Aves material is very good, I almost exclusively use Magic Sculpt for all sculpting, conversions and filling.
You will find that the Magic Sculpt is easy to shape when curing, and easy to sand, carve, mill or drill when completely cured.
The figures pictured below are made almost entirely from Magic Sculpt, except for the few parts in light yellow buff that are resin copies of earlier parts which were also made from Magic Sculpt. I rarely need to do any further carving or shaping after it is cured because the material can be shaped very precisely as it is hardening.

All the Best,
Ken Osen

Ken,
Does it stand up to vulcanising or do you have to make a silicone mould?

Martin

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Hi Martin,
Both Magic Sculpt and Aves will be deformed and/or crack when going straight to a Vulcanizer. You will need to make an RTV mold to create masters for your production molds.

I used to use A+B Putty by Biggs (Later Hexal) which cured much harder and on occasion these patterns would survive long enough to make a Vulcanized mold.
There were other down sides of that material too. It had an unpleasant odor, the residue build up on the tools when working with it and the fact that when in fully cured it was very hard to carve, file, drill or mill.

In the end the hassle of making an RTV mold to create the production masters is well worth it as the material is very fast to work with and the cure can be accelerated with very low heat. As a matter of fact it is in the 90 Degree Fahrenheit range here at the moment, and it makes the material set up in about half the time so I have to watch how much surface area I am doing at one go.
This figure is magic sculpt over a styrene and wire armature. The shield, sword and dagger handle were shaped from styrene with a carbide cutter in an electric dental hand piece. I like to use Evergreen plastic with the Magic Sculpt as it is about the same hardness when cured and if adjustments need to be made then I can shape the two materials with the same tools and pressure.

If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.
All the Best,
Ken

 

[The Lt.]

Gee no sneak peaks of a figure from the hand to hand sets your creating Ken to feature as an example.{sm4}{sm4}{sm4}{sm4}

 

[Martin Tabony]

Hi Martin,
Both Magic Sculpt and Aves will be deformed and/or crack when going straight to a Vulcanizer. You will need to make an RTV mold to create masters for your production molds.

I used to use A+B Putty by Biggs (Later Hexal) which cured much harder and on occasion these patterns would survive long enough to make a Vulcanized mold.
There were other down sides of that material too. It had an unpleasant odor, the residue build up on the tools when working with it and the fact that when in fully cured it was very hard to carve, file, drill or mill.

In the end the hassle of making an RTV mold to create the production masters is well worth it as the material is very fast to work with and the cure can be accelerated with very low heat. As a matter of fact it is in the 90 Degree Fahrenheit range here at the moment, and it makes the material set up in about half the time so I have to watch how much surface area I am doing at one go.
This figure is magic sculpt over a styrene and wire armature. The shield, sword and dagger handle were shaped from styrene with a carbide cutter in an electric dental hand piece. I like to use Evergreen plastic with the Magic Sculpt as it is about the same hardness when cured and if adjustments need to be made then I can shape the two materials with the same tools and pressure.

If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.
All the Best,
Ken

Thanks for the info Ken, very nice of you. Although I think I'll stick with the Miliput, if I give it a go I'll be picking your brains.^&grin

Cheers,
Martin

 

[Martin Tabony]

Hi Martin,
Both Magic Sculpt and Aves will be deformed and/or crack when going straight to a Vulcanizer. You will need to make an RTV mold to create masters for your production molds.

I used to use A+B Putty by Biggs (Later Hexal) which cured much harder and on occasion these patterns would survive long enough to make a Vulcanized mold.
There were other down sides of that material too. It had an unpleasant odor, the residue build up on the tools when working with it and the fact that when in fully cured it was very hard to carve, file, drill or mill.

In the end the hassle of making an RTV mold to create the production masters is well worth it as the material is very fast to work with and the cure can be accelerated with very low heat. As a matter of fact it is in the 90 Degree Fahrenheit range here at the moment, and it makes the material set up in about half the time so I have to watch how much surface area I am doing at one go.
This figure is magic sculpt over a styrene and wire armature. The shield, sword and dagger handle were shaped from styrene with a carbide cutter in an electric dental hand piece. I like to use Evergreen plastic with the Magic Sculpt as it is about the same hardness when cured and if adjustments need to be made then I can shape the two materials with the same tools and pressure.

If you have any other questions feel free to PM me.
All the Best,
Ken

90 degrees! The amount of rain we've had latley I'm going to look for something that cures underwater!!^&grin

Martin

 

[Ken & Ericka Osen/H&A Studio]

Well you are in luck... The Biggs A+B epoxy putty was designed to cure under water. This is the material that was introduced to me by Shep Paine many years ago. I used this almost exclusively until I discovered the Magic Sculpt.

I have used almost everything, including Milliput, but at the end of the day I like the working characteristics of the material I currently use. It may be because of 11 years as a dental technician... it works well with the tools I am used to.
Stay dry and cool...
Ken