How I build large scale dioramas! (5 Viewers)

The Hasagawa 1/6th Sopwith Camel to be included in my new diorama
"The Contenders Vimy 1917"

This will not be a review in the regular sense of the word.It is not an "out of the box"kind of build but one where I use this model as part of a larger storyboard shadowbox diorama.
My methods of building are my own and do not necessarily correspond with the normal practice of step-by-step model building.The plans and the instruction booklet that comes with this model will be for reference only.The text will be integrated with the pictures.Things will constantly change as I go along ,and there will be some experimenting as the build progresses ,as this will be a learning experience for me as well.
I haven't built a plastic airplane model in 14 years so I will also have to re-learn a lot of things as well as get up to date with modern building practices.
The pictures will not be professional looking but will be taken at my workbench in real day to day time.There will be mistakes made and a few trips down the wrong path on occasion but that is part of the fun in the creative process.There will be gaps in the build at times when I am researching or building other things for the diorama.I have other threads for these topics that will not be included here.
 
Because parts of this Camel kit are essentially already painted I will try to take advantage of this by roughening up the shiny plastic surface to give it more of the texture of wood and also prepare it for the pastels.(pastels will not stick to a shiny surface)I have experimented with different sandpapers etc.. and I have found that a very fine needle file works best for getting in and around the detail.Some fuzzy residue will be left behind but when I wash it down with an abrasive cleanser (Comet)it will be removed.It is a long and tedious job but it will be essential for this experiment to have a chance to work.
If I decide to use acrylics after all the roughened surface will ensure that they stick as well.
 
It is important throughout a shadow box build to check every once in awhile to see how things look under what will be the principal lighting source.In this case it will be somewhere from above but the final positioning will made only late in the build when the composition is finalized.
 
There is a certain freedom and responsibility involved when working on a museum piece.The freedom comes in knowing that once it is in the case it will be subject to the best conditions possible and also will be maintained in the future. Therefore the use of some materials such as pastels is a realistic consideration,
knowing they won't be handled a lot in that setting.
Also painting figures is a lot easier when scale distance,lighting and angle of view can be established ,especially in shadowbox work.



The responsibility lies in making sure that only the finest materials are used and that they will stand up to what can be the very polluted atmosphere of an enclosed case.To be on the safe side I have recommended that they allow for some air exchange.
Metal is especially subject to corrosion so I seal it well and try not to use incompatible materials together.

I have had a mixed media HMS Victory in a ventilated case for almost fifteen years now without any problems with corrosion or dust.Also the only material I used that doesn't have long standing durability record is a little super glue on the rigging.(I have since developed an allergy to it so that hasn't been a consideration for awhile now.)
 
JohnReid said:
Hi guys! I am new to this forum.Although I am not a collector ,I do build dioramas and thought that you guys might enjoy seeing them.Pictures to follow.
Cheers! John.;)
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Old member returning after a long absence:salute::
 
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