Importance Of Boxes (2 Viewers)

[1879fanatic]

What!!!!!

Your Trophy figures should be properly displayed.

er, I mean... my doubles only!

 

[glossman]

How about tissue paper?
Mark

Raymond,
You could pick up a roll or box of delicate wipes (KimWipes) that are non-acidic. We use them at work for cleaning delicate lenses and video/fiber equipment. Wrap each figure in one then place the figure in the foam so the two are separated. That's what I do with my precious Trophy guys
Mike

Mike and Mark,

I have looked up Kimberly-Clark products.

KimWipes

KimWipes are composed of virgin wood pulp from certified forests, with little chemical additives. As a result of the removal of chemical additives, the paper is somewhat not as soft as a Kleenex tissue. However, this lack of additives makes it ideal for cleaning and wiping applications in laboratories and research facilities.

Thanks very much for the help.

Raymond.

 

[blaster]

Hi Raymond and all,

Perhaps another alternative would be cloth, cotton, linen or silk, undyed... no more worries until another 100 years...

Rgds Victor

 

[glossman]

Hi Raymond and all,

Perhaps another alternative would be cloth, cotton, linen or silk, undyed... no more worries until another 100 years...

Rgds Victor

Hi Victor,

Thanks very much for your suggestions to protect figures from the long term effects of foam.

I would appreciate your views and advice on the display of figures (either gloss or matte) in our rather hot and humid climate.

Best Wishes, Raymond.

 

[damian]

The original boxes are a life saver when you move house.

 

[Aleš]

Well i am not a fan of used toy soldiers,but if i will buy any used toy soldiers i will be interested only in the ones with the box,because i think a box can be also very interesting,they protect a figure during transport,they can tell you which serie or number of the toy soldier is,if this is limited toy soldier than the serie number is also very immportant,maybe they have some informations on the box,...it is just something it must be,and i also not throw away boxes when i buy new figures(there is always a place left for the boxes).
I am sure when people sale their toy soldiers,they get less monney if they do not have boxes and it is correct that way,because when you buy a new toy soldier you also get a box or a shelf and that is also cost something and you pay for this,so if the seller do not give you boxes with the figures he must give a discount,i think this is something that must be,like a rule!

 

[blaster]

Hi Victor,

Thanks very much for your suggestions to protect figures from the long term effects of foam.

I would appreciate your views and advice on the display of figures (either gloss or matte) in our rather hot and humid climate.

Best Wishes, Raymond.

Hi Raymond,

Not being an expert nor really a curator..., here are my opinions:

Indeed we do live in a tropical clime with high humidity. I don't think the high temp is an issue as we live indoors but the high humidity is. Humidity does encourage chemical reactions. Any enclosed space therefore could lead to a build-up of fumes from the contents or the enclosure.

I am thinking of Oak or Mahogany (?) and other wood material which gives off resinous fumes leading to potential chemical reaction with either the paint or the metal - the dreaded metal rot disease. I think that there was a thread here discussing this. Even supposedly inert paint may not be susceptible to toxic fumes.

Fumes can also come from boxes (definitely not acid-free) producing foxing, and also from MDF and chipboard, which produces formaldehyde (smell of new modern furniture), a nasty stuff.

My advice therefore is to take out the figures for display occasionally and air the cupboards. For collectors who do not wish to take out the figures from the boxes, especially if these are tied into place, I would recommend that all mint sets be displayed in an open position with the tops removed.

Rgds Victor

 

[glossman]

Hi Raymond,

Not being an expert nor really a curator..., here are my opinions:

Indeed we do live in a tropical clime with high humidity. I don't think the high temp is an issue as we live indoors but the high humidity is. Humidity does encourage chemical reactions. Any enclosed space therefore could lead to a build-up of fumes from the contents or the enclosure.

I am thinking of Oak or Mahogany (?) and other wood material which gives off resinous fumes leading to potential chemical reaction with either the paint or the metal - the dreaded metal rot disease. I think that there was a thread here discussing this. Even supposedly inert paint may not be susceptible to toxic fumes.

Fumes can also come from boxes (definitely not acid-free) producing foxing, and also from MDF and chipboard, which produces formaldehyde (smell of new modern furniture), a nasty stuff.

My advice therefore is to take out the figures for display occasionally and air the cupboards. For collectors who do not wish to take out the figures from the boxes, especially if these are tied into place, I would recommend that all mint sets be displayed in an open position with the tops removed.

Rgds Victor

Hi Victor,

Thanks very much for your informative reply.

It would appear that keeping boxed sets of figures stored in cupboards for long periods of time is not the way to go.

Perhaps the use of all glass cabinets for the display of figures would be better. There are some of these available at V.Hive outlets, but unfortunately rather pricey. I am making the assumption (perhaps erroneous) that glass is more chemically inert than wood.

With all glass display cabinets, the effects of sunlight (indirect) on figures would need to be factored in. I have had my IKEA cabinets decoloured on the window side, even when placed well clear of direct sunlight.

Do you have any advice on the effects of air conditioners and the condensate that forms when units are switched off ?

Best Wishes, Raymond.

 

[blaster]

Hi Victor,

Thanks very much for your informative reply.

It would appear that keeping boxed sets of figures stored in cupboards for long periods of time is not the way to go.

Perhaps the use of all glass cabinets for the display of figures would be better. There are some of these available at V.Hive outlets, but unfortunately rather pricey. I am making the assumption (perhaps erroneous) that glass is more chemically inert than wood.

With all glass display cabinets, the effects of sunlight (indirect) on figures would need to be factored in. I have had my IKEA cabinets decoloured on the window side, even when placed well clear of direct sunlight.

Do you have any advice on the effects of air conditioners and the condensate that forms when units are switched off ?

Best Wishes, Raymond.

Hi Raymond,

On RH, I can only quote best practices as recommended by the EPA on Indoor Air quality:

"http://www.thermastor.com/information/Relative-Humidity-And-Your-Home.aspx

Indoor Air Quality

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) lists indoor air quality among its top environmental health threats.

There are three key components to healthy air. It must be fresh, clean, and have the proper humidity (less than 50% relative humidity). Fresh outside air is rich in oxygen and flushes your home of stale air, which is full of harmful airborne pollutants.

Yet, outside air is not necessarily clean air. In order to have clean air, it must be filtered to remove particles, airborne allergens, and other biologicals.

Maintaining relative humidity below 50% prevents dust mite infestations, mold and mildew growth, and inhibits bacteria. This lower relative humidity also reduces the out-gassing of VOCs. In colder climates, wintertime humidity levels must be even lower—generally 30-40%—to prevent condensation on windows and other surfaces.

Relative Humidity and Your Home

Unless you live in an arid climate, periods of high humidity create a myriad of problems for structures and people. Symptoms of high humidity would include:
• A musty odor in your home, and/or basement and crawl space
• Allergic reactions to mold and/or dust mites
• Visible mold growth in your home, basement, and/or crawl space
• Cupped wood floors
• Feeling "sticky" or "muggy"
• Visible condensation/water stains
• Peeling wallpaper/blistering paint
What should my relative humidity be?

Every homeowner should own a hygrometer that measures temperature and relative humidity (RH). The ideal relative humidity for health and comfort is about 40-50%. In the winter months, it may have to be lower than 40% RH to avoid condensation on the windows."

However, in our clime, condensation may not build up due to the higher temp.

Glass is definitely more inert than wood. Ikea uses a lot of MDF and wood chips, so formaldehyde fumes cannot be ruled out.

Note also not to put coloured toy soldiers in direct sunlight...

Rgds Vic

 

[glossman]

Hi Raymond,

On RH, I can only quote best practices as recommended by the EPA on Indoor Air quality:

"http://www.thermastor.com/information/Relative-Humidity-And-Your-Home.aspx

Indoor Air Quality

The Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) lists indoor air quality among its top environmental health threats.

There are three key components to healthy air. It must be fresh, clean, and have the proper humidity (less than 50% relative humidity). Fresh outside air is rich in oxygen and flushes your home of stale air, which is full of harmful airborne pollutants.

Yet, outside air is not necessarily clean air. In order to have clean air, it must be filtered to remove particles, airborne allergens, and other biologicals.

Maintaining relative humidity below 50% prevents dust mite infestations, mold and mildew growth, and inhibits bacteria. This lower relative humidity also reduces the out-gassing of VOCs. In colder climates, wintertime humidity levels must be even lower—generally 30-40%—to prevent condensation on windows and other surfaces.

Relative Humidity and Your Home

Unless you live in an arid climate, periods of high humidity create a myriad of problems for structures and people. Symptoms of high humidity would include:
• A musty odor in your home, and/or basement and crawl space
• Allergic reactions to mold and/or dust mites
• Visible mold growth in your home, basement, and/or crawl space
• Cupped wood floors
• Feeling "sticky" or "muggy"
• Visible condensation/water stains
• Peeling wallpaper/blistering paint
What should my relative humidity be?

Every homeowner should own a hygrometer that measures temperature and relative humidity (RH). The ideal relative humidity for health and comfort is about 40-50%. In the winter months, it may have to be lower than 40% RH to avoid condensation on the windows."

However, in our clime, condensation may not build up due to the higher temp.

Glass is definitely more inert than wood. Ikea uses a lot of MDF and wood chips, so formaldehyde fumes cannot be ruled out.

Note also not to put coloured toy soldiers in direct sunlight...

Rgds Vic

Hi Victor,

Thanks very much for the EPA Guidelines on Indoor Air Quality.

I managed to find some local data from the NEA.

http://app2.nea.gov.sg/airquality_indoor_guidelines.aspx

Section 4 encapsulates it all.

To control RH and excessive moisture, the Therma-Stor website recommends a residential dehumidifier.

Thanks, Raymond.