King & Country Egyptian Pharaohs Chariot needing repair (1 Viewer)

Mike currently has some of my stuff for repair - I highly recommend him. I've used him a few times now
 
Ray...

bayonets are a hard fix...

especially to keep them from re-breaking...

yours look good...

Hi Mike,
your right about that, even in my best days trying to reattach a bayonet was impossible.
you might also keep in mind my pics are about dbl the size if the figs in real life.
Ray
 
Hi Mike,
your right about that, even in my best days trying to reattach a bayonet was impossible.
you might also keep in mind my pics are about dbl the size if the figs in real life.
Ray

Ray...

ooooh I know...

the piece is too small to pin...

I can glue them on...and as long as I don't touch them too much...they will hold...

but I have no idea how to fix one any better than that...
 
Ray...

ooooh I know...

the piece is too small to pin...

I can glue them on...and as long as I don't touch them too much...they will hold...

but I have no idea how to fix one any better than that...

Happy New Year Mike,
gotta admit I was curious just how stron they were and I don't know what technic he uses but they are MUCH stronger than the originals
Ray
 
You need to solder them on. Just gluing them on doesn't work.
 
You need to solder them on. Just gluing them on doesn't work.

Brad...

I have tried soldering lead with solder before...

I can't get it to adhere...

if this is what he is doing...

I wish you would get some specifics and post the material and procedure...

cause it has never worked for me...
 
Brad...

I have tried soldering lead with solder before...

I can't get it to adhere...

if this is what he is doing...

I wish you would get some specifics and post the material and procedure...

cause it has never worked for me...

well...

I just found this online...

maybe my technique has had flaws...

http://electronics.stackexchange.com/questions/3805/solder-wont-stick

A classic reason solder won't stick to something is because you're not getting it hot enough. My interns come to me with this problem all the time.

Make sure the tip of the iron is nice and shiny. Touch some solder on it, and it should melt almost instantly.

Put a nice little blob of solder on the tip of the iron.

Press the blob of solder into the metal to be soldered.

Initially the solder won't be too keen, but when the metal reaches the right temperature, the solder will suddenly be attracted to it, and you'll see it move slightly.

Now that the pad has reached temperature, you can touch the solder anywhere on the pad and it should melt almost instantly. I often add solder this way so I know I'm adding it to a nice hot pad.
 
There is definitely an art to this, I know the one time I tried to solder a flat about the time the solder got hot enough the flat liquified...I understand there is low heat solder available out there but I haven't given it a try.
Ray
 
Mike,

He told me that you have to take the iron off when it gets very hot but not too hot. There must be an art to it and I'm sure it takes trial and error. He uses liquid flux, if that makes sense.
 
Brad...

your guy must be very talented...

I just googled liquid soldering flux and the only thing that seems special about it...
is that it is lead free...

I use a spool of solder wire...

and have never had any success...

I consider myself better than average on repairs...
but broken bayonets are beyond my scope of expertise...

if a bayonet or sword breaks on me...
I usually sell it on Ebay...
at a reduced price...
and replace it with another...

hoping I never have to try this...
but I will buy some liquid soldering flux next time one breaks...
 
Mike

Next time send it to me. His rates are pretty reasonable, $15 for fixing a bayonet.

Brad
 
Mike

Next time send it to me. His rates are pretty reasonable, $15 for fixing a bayonet.

Brad

I appreciate the offer...that's cheaper than the loss I usually take on Ebay...but adding shipping...back and forth...would probably push it over the edge...
 

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