Low melt solder etc. (1 Viewer)

[Wolfgang]

Hallo,

I finally got a hold of some very low melt solder. I am interested in soldering some troops together since I am not that happy with glueing parts together. After what I heard soldering will give the strongest bond. Now I have never mastered the art of soldiering sofar, I got the solder and I got a 15 Watt iron along with the flux.
Anybody out there who has experience/know how with soldering white metal parts together ?????
I would be most happy if somebody would take the trouble of explaining the "how to" on soldering. Some pics would be most welcome. Hopeing that this is of general interest and some willing collector is reading this and willing to help out.
Thank you in advance

regards
Wolfgang

 

[Harrytheheid]

Hallo,

I finally got a hold of some very low melt solder. I am interested in soldering some troops together since I am not that happy with glueing parts together. After what I heard soldering will give the strongest bond. Now I have never mastered the art of soldiering sofar, I got the solder and I got a 15 Watt iron along with the flux.
Anybody out there who has experience/know how with soldering white metal parts together ?????
I would be most happy if somebody would take the trouble of explaining the "how to" on soldering. Some pics would be most welcome. Hopeing that this is of general interest and some willing collector is reading this and willing to help out.
Thank you in advance

regards
Wolfgang

Ensure the parts to be joined are clean and bright Wolgang. Use a VERY fine grade of emery cloth to achieve this, 300-grit or finer. Suggest you use a Rosin-based flux which won't attack the metal parts. Remember to wash all solder joints in warm soapy water after soldering to get rid of any flux residue.

Hope this helps.

Cheers
H

 

[Njja]

This is a great topic, hope we get some photos!

njja

 

[kilted vampire]

I have yet to try this way of fixing figures but I should learn as this is the best way to attach pieces. Well strongest at least. Some delicate pieces perhaps not.

 

[theBaron]

I'm in the same boat, my soldering experience is rudimentary, and I'm wary of using the technique on some figures that I might have paid some good money for, lest I melt them. But I've attached pegged figures to bases that way (eg, Prins August castings).

Harry's earlier tip is an important one, you want to use an acid-free solder, the acid core will damage the metal of your figure.

Prost!
Brad

 

[Toy Soldier Brigade]

Have you tried epoxy ? I'm pretty sure that the metal in the figures has a lower melting point than any solder I know of

 

[Wolfgang]

Have you tried epoxy ? I'm pretty sure that the metal in the figures has a lower melting point than any solder I know of

Thank you all for your answers and interest. Yes there are some really low melt solders around - hard to get perhaps but they can be used with as little as 70 Degrees CELSIUS. That is the stuff I just gut plus the special white metal flux. Searched the internet for some time but really could not find any good how to if it comes to figure assembly. Epoxy is ok but as I stated before I am not really fond of glueing figures.
rgds
Wolfgang

 

[OzDigger]

I usually just cheat and hold the solder above the job rather than against it. Of course you sometimes get solder dropping onto your legs, but it doesn't hurt - for long

 

[skeeterbuck]

I can accross this kinda old thread and thought I post some update info.

I've been soldering white metal kits for several years now. I use this solder...

http://www.langleymodels.co.uk/acatalog/Online_Catalogue_Solder__Glue___Fillers_100.html

It's available from Langley Models in the UK. Also notice there is an acid flux that is used with the solder. I also use a variable temp soldering iron with a small tip. I adjust the iron so that it's hot enough to melt the solder but not too hot to melt the figure. I use an old small paintbrush to apply the liquid flux. Wherever you put the flux the solder will flow to when heated. I also just pick up a small amount of the solder on the hot soldering iron tip. It doesn't take much solder to do the job and any additional solder will have to be filed off later anyway, so why waste it.

I secure the main part usually in a vice or clamp of some sort and just hold the smaller part with my left hand (I'm right handed) and position the tip of the soldering iron at the junction of the parts. As soon as the parts become hot enough, the solder will flow from the tip to the seam between the parts filing the gap. Remove the iron still holding the parts secure. I usually am able to do one side of the part if for example I am attaching an arm to a torso. I them have to do the back side of the joint with another small application of solder. When the joint has cooled, I clean up any excess solder with a file and some fine steel wool.

After I finish all of my soldering, I wash the complete figure with warm water and dish soap, scrubbing with an old toothbrush to be sure to remove all of the acid flux. Then just prime and paint as normal.

Like what has been stated earlier, once you attach the part properly with solder, I not going to come loose or break later. The only down side to soldering is that you have to assemble the complete figure before painting.

I hope this all makes sense and is helpful to anyone wishing to try soldering. It's just another rather easily mastered skill. Give it a try.