Missing Bayonet How can it be repaired (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Deitz
- Start date
Louis Badolato
Lieutenant General
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2005
- Messages
- 17,277
I can vouch for the gentleman who does repairs for Brad, he did a fantastic job with some Lezinski castings for me. I liked his work so much I sent him a damaged Toy Army Workshop vehicle I won in an ebay auction a few months back, and look forward to seeing what he could do with it.:wink2:
Louis Badolato
Lieutenant General
- Joined
- Apr 25, 2005
- Messages
- 17,277
That's great, no rush.:smile2:
johnnybach
Major General
- Joined
- Nov 24, 2010
- Messages
- 13,663
It can be tricky to replace such a small part - at the end of another small part of a figure - such as a bayonet on the end of a rifle. In my experience, the easiest way to tackle this repair - is to either re-cast - or purchase a replacement part rifle end with bayonet attached - and remove the rifle end as far as you can, until you meet up with a part thick enough that you can drill into with a small drill ( I use a 1.5mm drill bit). Then you simply drill into that (about 2.5mm minimum - and do the same with the rifle end - and pin together with a 2mm pin - using epoxy resin glue. Once set - repaint using Humbrol Enamel paints ( as originally used by Trophy).
Okay - that's the "How". I have never done this with a Trophy piece myself, as these figures are difficult and/or expensive to find on my side of the pond. However, I have done it with many old easier to find hollowcast pieces such as Britains, Timpo and Johillco ( to name three off the top of my head). In principle, there is little difference between these and Trophy - except for the prices that these figures can go for ( IF you can find them!). Once completed and painted - it is difficult - if not impossible to spot the joint.
However, given the prices that these pieces now often go for - then maybe you might prefer to go with a professional repairer who has done this before with these figures. Sounds like he may have the recast parts to hand - or know where to obtain them?
If you don't fancy it - or you can't find a suitable spare part to use - then maybe go for a professional repair. But that's how I would do it - for myself, of course, as I don't do it for others. jb
ucla1967
Major
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 6,752
Interesting information. Brad: What does it cost to either make a new bayonet or reattached a broken bayonet using your repairman? BTW, this would have been more appropriate to have been posted under the "How-To" section under repairs. I almost missed it.
jazzeum
Four Star General
- Joined
- Apr 23, 2005
- Messages
- 38,432
Deitz
Command Sergeant Major
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,434
ucla1967
Major
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 6,752
ucla1967
Major
- Joined
- Jan 28, 2006
- Messages
- 6,752
I received your PM Brad, thanks for the information. I have a couple of broken Trophy bayonets, broken Imperial Productions drum sticks, and one or more missing Imperial bayonets. I may have more packed away in my garage. When I get a chance, I'll check to see what else I have to send. I also have a King & Country mahogany Spitfire whose wing detached from the fuselage. Would you please be so kind as to ask him if he can repair it? Thanks.
Mike
Mike
kogu
2nd Lieutenant
- Joined
- Mar 1, 2007
- Messages
- 3,635
I have a number of K&C Crimean War Highlanders that need their bayonets replaced, and found a way to do it.
What I used is electronics solder wire.
Cut it to length and use a file to bring it to shape.
Then I used superglue to attach it to the rifle.
Make sure you have a flat surface on both sides, the bayonet and the rifle.
I was very pleased with the result and I know now that I can fix the remaining ones as time permits.
Below are a few pics.
On the first pic, the trooper in the back has the replacement bayonet.
On the second pic, the trooper in the front has the replacement bayonet.
Third pic shows the material needed.
Make sure, the solder has no flux core.
While it is a rather soft material, on the short length of a bayonet in this scale, it is as rigid as any of the white metal alloy kits material supplied by numerous mfrs.
Cheers.
Konrad
What I used is electronics solder wire.
Cut it to length and use a file to bring it to shape.
Then I used superglue to attach it to the rifle.
Make sure you have a flat surface on both sides, the bayonet and the rifle.
I was very pleased with the result and I know now that I can fix the remaining ones as time permits.
Below are a few pics.
On the first pic, the trooper in the back has the replacement bayonet.
On the second pic, the trooper in the front has the replacement bayonet.
Third pic shows the material needed.
Make sure, the solder has no flux core.
While it is a rather soft material, on the short length of a bayonet in this scale, it is as rigid as any of the white metal alloy kits material supplied by numerous mfrs.
Cheers.
Konrad
Attachments
Deitz
Command Sergeant Major
- Joined
- Jun 29, 2008
- Messages
- 2,434
ROUGH RIDER
Specialist
- Joined
- Aug 7, 2009
- Messages
- 398
I have the same problem with the same figures. The lesson is greatly appreciated.
