More Spartans (1 Viewer)

[kilted vampire]

Flat red tunic try to experiment here. Do not try to cover in between the pleats fully. It will add as shadow.

Mahogany sand or flat brown, used for scab board.

Light brown used for skin base
mahogany sand to the light brown for shadow
sunnyskin thinned for highlight.

Light brown for spear shaft
Gunmetal for spear tips.

Shield and armour.
Flat red for lambda and border
Brass for base
Brassy brass for depth (has a reddish tint) Doing this from memory here. There is another brass I use for highlighting and gouges in the shields. I will get this straightened out.

smokey ink Wash entire figure after clear coat.

I have a lot of detail to do on these figures including the eyes and sandals and the bases. I am starting to like painting them.

I am going to clear coat these and when dry, I will wash the figures with smokey ink.

As I continue to paint I experiment with colours and technique. Sometimes I come up with my own ideas . I did some things different here. I went with light brown on the spears I usually use flat brown. I am also doing more black-lining. I just got a technical pen .025 I think it is. Also clear coating before the wash and then after blacklining clearcoat again. Blacklining helps seperate colors and gives a little depth to the area. I will try to show the differences.

There are a lot of processes to painting here that I do not often think about. I just do it and learn along the way. I look at the metal or prototype figures and paint.

These will be available for sale @ $17.50 each or the three for $45.00

 

[mikemiller1955]

Michael,

They are beautiful and you work really fast too.

Thanks for the photos and the detailed explanations.

Thanks for the color code, I know you spent a lot of time entertaining and answering my questions.

They are very attractive and considering all the detail, your price is pretty cheap.

A few more questions and I'll leave you alone.

You clear coat in matte and then wash in ink and then clear coat once more, is that right?????

Do you find the finished pose and then glue to make stationary or leave the moveable parts unglued?????

If you glue stationary, when do you do it, once you have painted behind the hard to reach spots????

If you leave them moveable as opposed to gluing stationary, does the paint tend to chip or rub off around the joints where you can move them?

Thanks Michael, great job, really nice finished product.

How many do you have now?

 

[kilted vampire]

Michael,

They are beautiful and you work really fast too.

Thanks for the photos and the detailed explanations.

Thanks for the color code, I know you spent a lot of time entertaining and answering my questions.

They are very attractive and considering all the detail, your price is pretty cheap.

A few more questions and I'll leave you alone.

You clear coat in matte and then wash in ink and then clear coat once more, is that right?????

Do you find the finished pose and then glue to make stationary or leave the moveable parts unglued?????

If you glue stationary, when do you do it, once you have painted behind the hard to reach spots????

If you leave them moveable as opposed to gluing stationary, does the paint tend to chip or rub off around the joints where you can move them?

Thanks Michael, great job, really nice finished product.

How many do you have now?

If you think they look good now wait until I am done.
You are welcome Michael, but, I did this for you guys anyways.
I am going to clear coat then wash(this is different for me. Then I will clear coat again. The reason for this is to keep the paint from washing away and to see if it makes the black-lining easier. Then I will seal again.
I have always left them unglued. I think the paint may rub off. depends on the parts. The guys without helmets have hair that can rub against the shoulders.
These are the 7th and eighth boxes that I have painted. I have none of my own unless these do not sell. I thought the prices were reasonable

 

[kilted vampire]

So I bought some flat clear from "Michaels" right? I spray the pieces down and set to dry. Guess what? Yep, gloss. I am steamed. It is not the end of the world but I have to go back now. I did paint the bases and they look great.

 

[mikemiller1955]

Michael,

Thanks for the tutorial.

I finished a couple here, and while I don't think they are near as good as yours, I know I will do better on the second batch.

A couple of things I noticed.

Because of the closeness of the shield, weapons and body, I needed to primer them several times, moving parts to expose unprimed areas that I couldn't get the first spray.

The Conte's are so detailed, that following the lines with a paintbrush, was easier than others I have painted in the past.

The long spears can be somewhat fragile, I broke one and am trying to salvage it.

The poses are endless.................whatever you want.

It seems like I could get 20-30 poses per figure, slight changes albeit, but enough to differentiate each soldier as unique.

Swivel a head here or there, raise a shield or move the weapon, you get lots of alternatives on poses.

This is a great product, nice sculpt, variety on poses, great detail.

I can't paint well, but if somebody can, these are nice.

These are finished with a matte spray, but I don't think I got enogh shadow with the wash, so I will wash them again and matte spray them again.

I never got the Vallejo paints (about $175.00), I just used my Folk Art.

I'm getting some more.

Thanks for your help Michael.

 

[kilted vampire]

Mike , You will improve every time you paint a batch. I thought these looked rather good for a first effort. Vallejo paints can be bought seperately from hobby stores. About $3.00 per bottle. Good job!

i will be posting some more soon. Working on finding a good skin tone and process for carrying that out. One involves a darker brown to beginwith and the a wash.