Mounting Toy & Model Soldiers for Painting (1 Viewer)

Wilsonedward

Memoriam Member
Joined
Jan 20, 2009
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Hello lads,

I've had a few emails from collectors asking me to clarify exactly how I mount my soldiers for painting. As you can clearly see in the three pics below I glue them with Superglue (the rapid setting stuff that probably has a hundred different names worldwide) to empty Humbrol Enamel paint tins. I apply two small blobs of Superglue to each side of the tin lid and apply the figure. The tin acts as just the right sized handle for me to grip while painting the figure (and I have big hands!) and avoids oily or dirty fingers touching the paint before the varnish is applied. When painting is finished the figure is easily prised from the tin lid with a screwdriver or blunt knife. I then turn the figure upside down and gently scrape off any dried glue residue with a sharp craft knife before painting the underside of the base and the figure is ready for varnishing. It's a simple method that works wonders for me and you could use a variety of things to mount the figures on, including small off cuts or blocks of timber or cotton reels which are an old favourite. The mounting method also works for mounted figures too (horses, camels & motorcycles) but artillery is a different story!

Craig Pearse
Wilson Edward Toy Soldiers
www.wilsonedward.blogspot.com
 

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Craig,
thanks for the tip on painting.....

I have only done that sort of thing for painting smaller figures, 40mm or even 25mm, but never with 54mm.

I may try that, as I have lots of empty HUMBROL tins... Who say you can't teach and 'old dog' a new trick? :) :)

john
 
John and Craig,
You two blokes are going to have heaps to talk about when you get together at the Dinner in Melbourne on the June weekend. Poor old Andy won't get a word in.^&grin^&grin Two of Aussies best TS painters. I salute you both.
Cheers Howard{sm4}
 
Interesting...I use the Mk. 1 thumb and forefinger and hold by the base, though for scale model figures, I with either drill a small hole in the figure's foot and use a toothpick (cocktail stick, I think you in the Commonwealth call 'em) as a holder, or even use a small blob of white glue to fix the figure to the stick. In that case, I brush on hot water till the glue dissolves. I've also used spring-loaded clothespins as holders.

Your Officer Ponch looks great! I can't wait to see him when his bike is finished.

Prost!
Brad
 
Thanks Brad, here's a couple of pics of the finished model as requested (in two versions).

Regards,

Craig
WETS

Interesting...I use the Mk. 1 thumb and forefinger and hold by the base, though for scale model figures, I with either drill a small hole in the figure's foot and use a toothpick (cocktail stick, I think you in the Commonwealth call 'em) as a holder, or even use a small blob of white glue to fix the figure to the stick. In that case, I brush on hot water till the glue dissolves. I've also used spring-loaded clothespins as holders.

Your Officer Ponch looks great! I can't wait to see him when his bike is finished.

Prost!
Brad
 

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Another pic of the handy little Humbrol tins in action ... they work wonders!

Craig :smile2:
WETS
 

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A good tip recycling those old paint tins Craig and it is nice to see the painting in progress.

I notice that you use Vallejo paints there- may I ask which colour you use for the A.I.F woollen tunics and pants? If its not a trade secret!

That is one colour I always struggle with finding the correct match.

Scott
 
Hi Scott,

Not a trade secret at all mate and thanks for asking. The Vallejo colours I use for WWI Aussie Uniform Tunics & Slouch Hats are: 921 English Uniform (newer uniform) & 873 US Field Drab (weathered uniform), pants: 988 Khaki and puttees: 874 Tan Earth.

I've used Vallejo Acrylic paint for years now and I believe it is far superior and much more user friendly than enamels (IMO) and the colour range is endless. Why wash your brushes with thinners and breath in all those nasty fumes when you can use good old water!

Cheers :smile2:

Craig
WETS


A good tip recycling those old paint tins Craig and it is nice to see the painting in progress.

I notice that you use Vallejo paints there- may I ask which colour you use for the A.I.F woollen tunics and pants? If its not a trade secret!

That is one colour I always struggle with finding the correct match.

Scott
 
Craig,

Thank you very much for those paint colour numbers. I will chase those colours up.

Scott
 
The WETS assembly, painting and finishing guide

This is the method we use when painting our toy & model soldiers

INITIAL PREPARATION
The first job after receiving the metal figure casting is to trim or scrape off the mould lines and any unwanted metal left by the casting process, including the underside of the base. A good quality sharp modelling knife is ideal for this job, or alternatively, a file or sandpaper can be used. Sometimes, a small drill will be needed to re-drill arm or other holes that have closed over a little in the moulding process so a good quality hobby or handyman drill with an assortment of drill bits is a handy asset to the tool box. After the bare casting is clean and smooth, the next step is to wash the figure in warm water with a little dish washing liquid soap added to remove any traces of the mould release agent (an invisible powder) that is left on the surface of the casting after it comes out of the mould. The washed figure should be left for at least a few hours to air dry before the next step which is assembly.

ASSEMBLY
To assemble the figure, we use and recommend a two part epoxy resin based glue called “Selly's Araldite 5 minute everyday epoxy”, available throughout Australia at any hardware store and most supermarkets. This is a resin based two part glue which achieves a very strong bond when the two parts are mixed together and will no doubt be available worldwide under different names and brands. The bonus is that it can also be used as a filler to hide small gaps in parts that don't match exactly. For a quick or instant bond, Superglue (made in many varieties and names worldwide) can also be used for assembly, however, this product eventually weakens and in a few years time the arms may start falling off your soldiers! If you are an advanced modeller, a soldering iron can be used but this method requires experience and care to avoid accidentally melting the casting!

UNDERCOATING
The next step is to undercoat the figure and we use and recommend a good quality spray can metal primer called “Dulux grey metal primer” which is available at hardware stores throughout Australia. There are many brands and types of spray can metal primers on the market but make sure you buy a good quality brand and not a cheap and nasty type which may not give a smooth or even coverage. Remember that any spraying needs to be done outside and not on a windy day for obvious reasons. Just make sure the can is well shaken before you apply the primer in short sharp bursts. The other alternative is to brush on the undercoat and a light grey or white acrylic or enamel paint is good for this. A couple of thinned down even coats are best to ensure any detail on the figure is not obscured.

MOUNTING FIGURES FOR PAINTING
The next step is to mount the figure for painting and this is a very important part of the process and one that a lot of figure painters overlook and end up doing endless re-touching jobs after they keep smearing paint off their figures by direct handling. Constantly touching of the figure secretes a layer of human grease from the hand/fingers which does nothing at all for the model and eventually causes paint to flake off. After a lot of trial and error, we now use empty Humbrol enamel paint tins. Have a look at page 2. of the catalogue and you'll see these little fellows in action! These little gems are a perfect size and weight to accommodate a 54mm figure for painting. The figure is mounted or attached to the tin by putting two small drops of Superglue on either side of the lid and attaching the primed figure by simply sitting him there and waiting a few minutes for the glue to set. This gives you something to hold while the painting is being done and ensures no contamination or repainting due to smudging. When all the painting is finished, use an old blunt kitchen knife, a screwdriver or similar implement to gently prise the figure from the tin and you’ll find he just pops off! Use a sharp hobby knife to gently scrape away the small amount of Superglue from the underside of the base of the figure and also from the lid of the Humbrol tin and presto! You can then paint the underside of the figures base and lay him on his side on something soft until the base is dry.

PAINTING
We use and recommend Vallejo and Games Workshop Acrylic paint for our models. Enamels (Humbrol, Testors, Tamiya etc.) are still very popular and can also be used but our preference is for acrylics due to their quick drying time, their huge range of colours and the fact that they don’t emit any horrible odours which can result in headaches after prolonged use. In relation to the actual painting process, two of the most important things are to ensure your paint is well mixed (or shaken) and that you use good quality brushes. Cheap brushes result in poor results! We always start painting our figures with the flesh first, IE: the face and hands, followed by the upper body of the figure, then the legs, shoes and base. We then tackle webbing, belts, head wear and finally weapons before adding fine details like eyes and buttons. It’s a personal preference where you start painting your figure but this method works well for us. We don’t waste too much time during the initial stages trying to be too careful when applying the colours as it's always easier to cut back in and clean up lines and blemishes a little later and the acrylic paint dries so fast it's usually only a few seconds after each colour is applied before you can do this. Ensure all the main parts of the figure receives at least two nice clean even coats and then you can start worrying about tidying up and applying small details like badges, buttons, shoulder flashes and rank chevrons etc. To be a good painter takes time and practice makes perfect so don’t be deterred or put off by your early results as you will improve with each figure! If you are completely disappointed with early results, the figure can easily be stripped using a good quality liquid paint stripper and re-painted. Obtaining good reference material when painting is also advisable to ensure you are painting your figure in the correct uniform colours. The internet is a great resource for this and there is an endless variety of uniform reference books available like the renowned “Osprey series”, available from book sellers worldwide. Remember to take your time and enjoy the process of watching your bare metal casting come alive as each colour and detail is applied.

FINISHING
When the figure is completely finished (don't forget to paint the underside of the base) it’s time to apply some protection. This is the varnishing process and we use and recommend a spray can product called “Testors Dullcote” which is available from hobby outlets worldwide. This is an excellent product that provides a tough protective finish and does not yellow with age like many varnishes on the market. It's also available in gloss you like your figures shiny! The spraying needs to be done outside and not on a windy day and ensure the can is very well shaken (we shake it 50 times) before you apply it in short sharp bursts. We give our figures two even coats and then let them air dry for a few hours before handling them. And don’t forget to varnish the underside of the base! Varnish can also be brushed on and we recommend Humbrol matt and gloss varnish which comes in a clear glass bottle or container and is a good quality product that does not yellow with age. Once again, don’t forget to mix or shake the container very well before applying the varnish or the results will be streaky and unpredictable. It’s a personal preference, but some collectors like to initial and even date the underside of the base of their finished figures so they can reflect on all their hard work in years to come.

DISPLAY
There are many ways to display your painted figures and the way you go about this is also very much a personal preference. Some people like to purchase purpose built glass display cabinets with elaborate internal lighting which can be considered the ultimate way to display your collection and can be a real eye catcher and a talking point for visitors. Retail outlets like IKEA produce some lovely and very cost effective display options and as far as we know they have stores in every major country in the world. Some enthusiasts like to incorporate their figures into small scenes or dioramas with scenic backdrops or model buildings which can really bring your little men to life. There is an almost endless selection of ready made scenic items and accessories available on the market today making collectors extremely spoiled with variety and choice. Another way of displaying your figures is to incorporate them in or amongst a nice selection of military books or militaria, including hats, uniforms, ammunition or even musical instruments. Figures can also be displayed near military prints or paintings or simply lined up on shelves, sideboards, cupboards, cabinets or the like for visitors (and you) to see and admire. Have fun, enjoy your modelling and remember the words of the founder of the oldest toy soldier company in the world, William Britain, who once said … “Inside every man, there is a small boy who wants to come out and play.”
 
Craig,

I just finished my first Wilson Edward kit and thought I might post some pics here. Painted as per your instructions in the previous post and finished in gloss.

The foreign Legionnaire at Gallipoli.

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A nice kit. I like the facial details on this figure.

Scott.
 
G'day Scott and thanks for the great pics mate.

Fantastic painting effort and a lovely 'smooth' looking GLOSS finish.

If you lived in Australia I'd sign you up as a full time WETS painter tomorrow :smile2:

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Craig Pearse
WETS
wilsonedward.blogspot.com



Craig,

I just finished my first Wilson Edward kit and thought I might post some pics here. Painted as per your instructions in the previous post and finished in gloss.

The foreign Legionnaire at Gallipoli.

View attachment 68170View attachment 68171

A nice kit. I like the facial details on this figure.

Scott.
 
Sorry Scott,

I just checked your profile and you are an "Aussie" :smile2:

Check out my new BLOG mate, I've posted your great pics there for other WETS collectors to see: wilsonedward.blogspot.com
Cheers,

Craig


G'day Scott and thanks for the great pics mate.

Fantastic painting effort and a lovely 'smooth' looking GLOSS finish.

If you lived in Australia I'd sign you up as a full time WETS painter tomorrow :smile2:

Keep up the great work!

Regards,

Craig Pearse
WETS
wilsonedward.blogspot.com
 
Craig,

Thanks for the encouragement and it was nice to see the photos of the figure on the blog.

The gloss I use is White Knight crystal clear acrylic available from the local hardware. I've been surpirsed how glossy the figures become after two coats, almost porcelain and think I could get away with one coat.

Will contact you for a catalog via your blog site. I have been wanting to buy and paint the Lancashire Fusilier figure at Gallipoli you make for a while.

Scott
 
Cheers Scott,

White Knight acrylic does a great job and I must admit I haven't tried it. I'll pop down to the local hardware store and pick up a can or two and give it a try as your results clearly speak for themselves!

Post a few more pics of your painting when you can mate as that's what this forum topic is all about and it's always great to see other Aussies posting as we are the minority on here .

Regards,

Craig
WETS

PS ... Below is a pic of WETS WE-GAL-14 British Lancashire Fusilier @ Gallipoli.


Craig,

Thanks for the encouragement and it was nice to see the photos of the figure on the blog.

The gloss I use is White Knight crystal clear acrylic available from the local hardware. I've been surpirsed how glossy the figures become after two coats, almost porcelain and think I could get away with one coat.

Will contact you for a catalog via your blog site. I have been wanting to buy and paint the Lancashire Fusilier figure at Gallipoli you make for a while.

Scott
 

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