Paint for K&C ? (1 Viewer)

Hi, Ron, I'd like to interject, if I may, I use Tamiya paints, too, and they work pretty well.

I think someone further up in this thread mentioned this, but if you go on in painting, you may wind up creating a tool kit with paints by different manufacturers. For example, I have Tamiya, but also Testor's in my paint kit, Gunze-Sangyo, and some Polly-S.

You might also wind up finding that you prefer one medium over another. For example, you might like working with water-based acrylics, like the Vallejo or Andrea colors, over enamels like some of Testor's and Tamiya's lines. Different media have their application, and advantages and disadvantages. Different solvents, too. Enamels and oils will require paint thinners like turpentine or mineral spirits, while water-based enamels can be thinned with water (duh!) or isopropyl.

If you go for Tamiya colors, make sure you choose colors with the XF numbers, those are their flat colors. The other code they use is their gloss code.

Welcome to the ranks of the painters, prosit!
Brad
 
Thanks Guys these posts are extremely helpful - hope others are getting something out of this conversation as well.

Who knows after my repair work - I might take on finding and painting a NAPOLEONIC General myself :eek:
 
My personal preference is Vallejo over Tamiya, but I appreciate it's a personal choice. My understanding, and I don't know if Andy will chip (sorry :eek:) in here to confirm, is that K&C used to use Tamiya but moved over to Vallejo some time ago.

With regards to brushes, the advice has already been given, but, I would try and see the brushes in person at a Model shop or craft shop, simply because one manufacturers 5/0 is anothers 0. I think it's far more important to have a look / feel of the brushes first.

For touch ups, I wouldn't have thought more than 2 or 3 brushes would be needed, and if thouroughly cleaned afterwards, for this type of work, they should last you years.

Simon
 
With the Vallejo (or Andrea) acrylics, you can use the washing technique to build up colors very easily. Tamiya's enamels don't lend themselves as readily to that, even the water-based ones. I think many modelers who use them may tend to use them with an airbrush.

I tend to use the enamels for my base colors, and then use acrylic or oil washes over that.

That's another advantage of using both-if you do your basic colors with enamels, and wash acrylics over them, the solvents used to carry the pigment in an acrylic paint-like water-don't attack the enamel layer below. If I'm painting a plastic figure, using enamels, I'll seal the first layer with a lacquer, like DullCote, if I'm using an oil wash over that layer.

This can become quite complex. See what you started, Ron? :D
 
Ron,
All of these hints and helps are probably confusing to you, but in short;

1.) Tamiya paint works best on older K & C figures
2.) Vallejo works best on newer K & C figures
3.) you don't need to buy 9,000 colors, just buy the basic colors like black, white, brown, red, blue, etc, etc and work from there. To darken a color, add black paint to it on the pallet, to lighten a color, add white paint to it, pretty simple. You can buy either paint type at wargaming shows, ie, Cold Wars, Historicon, Fall In, you've attended these in the past if I recall.
4.) For brushes, go to Michaels or AC Moore and you will see the brushes, the smaller the better as it sounds like you are doing just touch ups.
5.) Any questions, PM me as I've touched up more than my fair share of figures, free advice from me, a Yankee to boot.......:p
 
One set I find invaluable is Andrea flesh tone set, 6 shades of skin tones and mixing and matching is a snap.
 
Warrior said:
... To darken a color, add black paint to it on the pallet, to lighten a color, add white paint to it, pretty simple...
Click to expand...

When you mix your colors, do you find you have to be mindful of the medium, like avoiding mixing acrylics and enamels, or mixing paints from different manufacturers? Or have you found that it hasn't made a difference?

So far, any mixing I've done has been only with oils, and once, with Tamiya enamels, so any differences weren't really a factor.

Prost!
Brad

Prost!
Brad
 
The only thing I do is keep oil & water based paints seperate. Other than that I have mixed different manufacturers paint together.
 
I forgot to mention Ron if you have a dollar store nearby they sell bottles of acrylic paint and usually have a good selection of colours. Maybe just get the basics and give it a go. Most you have lost then is a couple of $$. Walmart also sells arcylic bottles of craft paint.

These are the brands I use but I am not touching up and exsisting paint job. If you look at my albums you can see (under the farm collection) the animals I have painted using the above mentioned paints.
 
theBaron said:
Hi, Ron, I'd like to interject, if I may, I use Tamiya paints, too, and they work pretty well.
Click to expand...

I have had horrible experiences using Tamiya with a brush. It seems to me like they are meant for an airbrush & spaying large surfaces. What's your secret to brushing Tamiya?
 
Blowtorch said:
I have had horrible experiences using Tamiya with a brush. It seems to me like they are meant for an airbrush & spaying large surfaces. What's your secret to brushing Tamiya?
Click to expand...

Me too that's why I only use them for airbrushing. I guess they would be ok for really minor touch ups.
 
OK

Who has bought VALLEJO ? :confused:

I am looking at buying the Vallejo Model Military Color Suitcase (72 paint colors) - Is that the best way to go - or should I buy the smaller sets ??

Here is the pic on the suitcase:
 

Attachments

  • usacomicbooks_2038_575658639.gif
    usacomicbooks_2038_575658639.gif
    44.2 KB · Views: 279
I use Vallejo, the pigments are a lot finer than some of the economy acryllics. The reason is that Vallejo is used for very small miniatures with even smaller detail that can be obscured by the other acryllics' pigments. One thing to think about on larger scales of figures is that different types of paints are used for different textures. Oil base paints for skin tones. Acryllics are used for fabric and hair.

BTW I have more than 72 colors. At $3.00 a crack it is an investment. If those colors work for you that is great. I Have at least 8 or 9 different types of blue and green. One has to learn to mix colors so a paint wheel might be a good idea too.
 
Right Ron

This is what you do..............

You get the big case of Vallejo paints. They are a very good base to start. Then you will find as you go on that you get used to the colours you need to add more shades. you will also use a lot of some and most likely not use some of them

I, like KV have many shades of all colours. i started with the big case then i have since bought all the ranges and then loads of individuals. I think all in i have 200 paints. with skin tones adding up for about 20 of them!

Warrior is right tamiya works well with glossy and older K&C and the Vallejo for sure are the way to go. Ask Tom McCall what he thought of the touch ups that i did for him before Christmas.

Also witha chip it is sometimes easier to scrape away with a stanley or fine blade a bigger area to work on. easier to blend in etc. Brushes for touch ups you will need very fine upto a medium. only about 4 brushes i again have 20 or so brushes but tend to bounce around the same 5 or 6!

trust me Ron like George i have repaired and touched up my fair share of K&C. When i joind K&C UK one of my first jobs was to touch up 60 plus K&C Voligure Buglers that were not packed that well by the factory. this gave me a good experience of colour mixing etc.

Also you can get the VALLEJO spray varnish in MATT and Gloos so when you do repairs you then spray the varnish over to seal th work. They also do a paint on version of the matt and gloss. this is good for doing areas like shiny boots helmets etc.

Tony
 
Hi Guys

I paint all my figures from scratch, mainly metal and have found valejo to be the best even compared with Andrea colour. I use humbrol matt enamels for base coats prior to painting with acrylic or oil paints, I also find games workshop paints are usefull especially their metalics they have a good range I especially like Tin Bitz for a base to gold and brass it give a good metalic shine and depth to these colours.

To protect matt paints I find a coat of Rowney acrylic matt varnish is excellent its none yellowing and gives a fantastic matt protection to the figure. If I want a gloss finish I use an acrylic gloss varnish which I hasten to add is none yellowing.

On horses I use a matt enamel undercoat depending on the colour of the horse, I use a selection of browns, grey or white, I then use oil paints for the horses main colour usually brushing off the main oil coat until the undercoat shows through this gives the horse highlights, then I use a darker shade for shadow, oils are great for horses because they give a nice rich tone and with oils you can paint wet on wet or wet on dry and still blend the colours. I undercoat all my soldier figures in Humbrol matt white as I think it allows the top colours to show off there tones well and I dont need to put as many coats on like you would with a grey primer. The one exception to this is khaki when I use a lt tan undercoat.

When it comes to Tamiya paints I dont use them apart from one exception that is Tamiya acrylic smoke varnish this is a gloss varnish and is brilliant for plate armour, I always burnish the armour first usually with a knitting needle to a mirror shine (yes it is boring ) but once finished with a coat or two of smoke varnish it is well worth the work, I think better than paint.

I think it best when first starting out to get a basic colour pallet red black white blue yellow and a selection of flesh colours and metalics. I think KV said to use white to highlight and black to shadow this is Ok with most colours but green and red need yellow to lighten otherwise red will go pink and green will loose its intensity. I use a selection of brushes for those in UK the ones from Historex agents are excellent they vary from 000 - 3 and finally I find the best type of brush for dry brushing is the artists flat ended type they come in all sizes and you do not have to buy expensive ones because dry brushing ruins brushes so cheap is good.

Regards John
 
Guys this is all very helpful - Thank You.

But, we need to have a decision on what I should buy to start in the Vallejo Collection ? :confused:

Do I get :

1) Model Military 72 Paint Set ?

2) Model Game Color 72 Paint Set ?

Which one is the best for touch up jobs for King & Country - looking to fix WWII figures and Napoleonics.

Most of the chipping problems are with rifles (brown & black) - faces (flesh) - backpacks/shovels (green) in the WWII DD figures.

Napoleonics have flag poles (brown) - flags (red) - rifles (brown)
 
Ron

Option 1

if you went for 2 you get some weird and wonderful colours that are designed for fantasy stuff

Tony
 
I vote Option 1 too. I bought the 72 "model" colors without the case and I like them a lot. The "game" color is for fantasy wargaming miniatures.
 
What colors are in the cases? You should probably consider the military one. There is Napoleonic set too.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Users who are viewing this thread

Total: 2 (members: 0, guests: 2)
Community platform by XenForo® © 2010-2024 XenForo Ltd.
Back
Top