Resin Kits (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Terp152
- Start date
I use JB Weld. Use the regular one. It hardens like steel. Don't use the quick dry one. Takes 24 hours to fully cure
theBaron
Major
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Super glue, or more technically, cyanoacrylate (CA) glue, is a common adhesive for assembling resin kits. But there's a little more that you can do than just applying glue.
Are the parts keyed in any way, or is the join a simple butt-joint of two flat surfaces? If it is a butt-joint, it is a good idea to pin the joint, by drilling holes in both pieces and then using a piece of wire to fit the two parts. This provides strength to the join, as well as increasing the surface area of the glued surface.
CA glue should be sufficient for most of the glueing that you'll have to do with a kit. However, the glue can become brittle over time and susceptible to breaking. You can get a stronger joint with a two-part epoxy. I use a 5-minute epoxy cement. That means it sets in 5 minutes. That gives me time to make adjustments as the glue sets. I still pin joints as appropriate, to strengthen them.
Hope that helps!
Prost!
Brad
ivanmoe
Command Sergeant Major
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Saw Chris’ post and want to ask a question that’s at least tangentially related...
Resin kits invariably have a significant number of relatively small parts that are attached to pour-blocks and have to be cut or sawed free. In the process of separating the parts, dust is generated which is frequently described as being “highly toxic,” so much so that it’s apparently killed a modeler or two. My question, then, is exactly how dangerous is this whole cleanup business? What do you modelers do to mitigate against the dust and all?
Resin kits have apparently improved with time and I’d like to try my hand at a couple. Just don’t want to do any damage to my eyes or lungs in the process
-Moe
Resin kits invariably have a significant number of relatively small parts that are attached to pour-blocks and have to be cut or sawed free. In the process of separating the parts, dust is generated which is frequently described as being “highly toxic,” so much so that it’s apparently killed a modeler or two. My question, then, is exactly how dangerous is this whole cleanup business? What do you modelers do to mitigate against the dust and all?
Resin kits have apparently improved with time and I’d like to try my hand at a couple. Just don’t want to do any damage to my eyes or lungs in the process
-Moe
theBaron
Major
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- Mar 27, 2008
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- 10,327
Re: Resin Kits-safety precautions.
Carefully evaluate what you hear or read.
Yes, resin dust can be harmful, over the long run. But it's not plutonium. You won't drop dead from contact with it.
As Mirof notes, many modelers will wear a dust mask when cutting or sanding. The paper masks, with an elastic strap and a little band of metal to form it to the bridge of your nose, sold in hardware stores, will do just fine.
When sanding, there are those who use the wet-sanding technique to keep the dust down.
Also, work in a well-ventilated area. But that's generally true, if you build models or assemble figures. The solvents and glues we use, the paints, casting resins, mold-making compounds, melted metals, all give off fumes of various intensities, which are not good for you, in the long run.
Hope that helps de-mystify working with resin.
Prost!
Brad
Carefully evaluate what you hear or read.
Yes, resin dust can be harmful, over the long run. But it's not plutonium. You won't drop dead from contact with it.
As Mirof notes, many modelers will wear a dust mask when cutting or sanding. The paper masks, with an elastic strap and a little band of metal to form it to the bridge of your nose, sold in hardware stores, will do just fine.
When sanding, there are those who use the wet-sanding technique to keep the dust down.
Also, work in a well-ventilated area. But that's generally true, if you build models or assemble figures. The solvents and glues we use, the paints, casting resins, mold-making compounds, melted metals, all give off fumes of various intensities, which are not good for you, in the long run.
Hope that helps de-mystify working with resin.
Prost!
Brad