Soldier-Pac Closes Shop (1 Viewer)

Did anyone ever find out why SoldierPac closed their doors and what happened to their stock and molds? Such a pity . . . they filled a gap where others did not follow. Wonder if the advent of the new breed (i.e., King & Country, etc) had a impact that they couldn't overcome?

Al
 
Al Fisher said:
Did anyone ever find out why SoldierPac closed their doors and what happened to their stock and molds? Such a pity . . . they filled a gap where others did not follow. Wonder if the advent of the new breed (i.e., King & Country, etc) had a impact that they couldn't overcome?

Al
Click to expand...

They have only stopped their recast side of the business, the other ranges are still available.

Jeff
 
Vamp.

What do you use as a mold release?
Grafite works great for casting but makes painting a pain:mad:
Mica powder works very well.
 
soldier01 said:
Vamp.

What do you use as a mold release?
Grafite works great for casting but makes painting a pain:mad:
Mica powder works very well.
Click to expand...


So far I have been smoking the molds. Not tried either graphite or mica powder. Where does one find that stuff?
 
I have graphite powder but I found that it's biggest sin is that it's the very devil around the basement. It gets everywhere...and I mean...*everywhere*. I switched back to talcum powder. Regardless, use an old toothbrush and dish detergent to scrub the figures prior to priming. I actually wash first, then prime because it shows any mold part lines better. After scraping with the back of an X-acto knife, I scrub with the toothbrush and soap again and re-prime lightly to cover any bare metal.
 
Vamp,

For a large amount you can Google "conquest Industries".
For small amounts Google "Mold Powder, Casting" you will find it under "casting Talc" etc.
The best way to apply the powder is to put a small pile in the center of a shop rag, then pull that four corners up and put a rubber band around the center. Kind of like making a ghost for Halloween.
Pat the molds with the ghost and slap the powder off leaving a thin film on the molds.

Good luck,

P.S. this will help the metal flow and make the mold last much longer.
 
soldier01 said:
Vamp,

For a large amount you can Google "conquest Industries".
For small amounts Google "Mold Powder, Casting" you will find it under "casting Talc" etc.
The best way to apply the powder is to put a small pile in the center of a shop rag, then pull that four corners up and put a rubber band around the center. Kind of like making a ghost for Halloween.
Pat the molds with the ghost and slap the powder off leaving a thin film on the molds.

Good luck,

P.S. this will help the metal flow and make the mold last much longer.
Click to expand...

You can do this with metal molds?
 
Vamp,

I have done this with RTV and Vulcanized (spelling?) spin casting molds.
I have no experance with metal molds, however the concept would be the same.
 
Vamp,

You may have tried this, so forgive me if I'm stating the obvious.
Try warming the mold before pouring.
Also, if you can vibrate the mold while pouring the metal it can be a big big help.
If you have something like a bench grinder, run the machine on the bench next to the mold.
 
Vamp,

Just looked at "tips for casting" post so I see you are warming the molds.
Do give the vibrating a try.
 
on the talc...I found that a women's cosmetic brush works great. It costs about 4 bucks and has massive surface area. That does great. Clap them together tho like he said...I've had talc block the entrance to shovel handles and spikes on picklehaub helmets. I make my molds 'vibrate' by almost generating a palsy in my hand that holds the clamp as I pour. Not for the weak of heart but he's right...it makes the difference. Esp. on side to side motion. Sometimes the faces of LA molds can be a struggle.
 
I also stopped using graphite and went back to talc as I found that the former contaminated the molten metal when reintroduced to the melting pot.

Al
 
Gregg, I use the brush deal myself. I have seen the hanky method described in the literature that comes with the molds.

Soldier 01 Would love to try the vibrating method if I could figure out something to work over the stove:eek:
 
Vamp,

You can go to wal-Mart of a drug store. Look in for a vibrating pillow. (yes I know, sounds strange) Buy a cheap one that takes a couple of D batteries.
Take the guts out of the pillow. On the one I have there is a plastic battery holder and the motor attached to a small piece of plywood.
You my need to get creative and screw another piece of wood to the thing.
Most of them have a little switch that when pressed down on the vibrator goes on.
Be careful. It really does work.
 
One more thing.
Gun shops sell some small electric melting pots for casting bullets.
They are great, and you can move out of the kitchen.
 
soldier01 said:
One more thing.
Gun shops sell some small electric melting pots for casting bullets.
They are great, and you can move out of the kitchen.
Click to expand...


I have one of those melting pots. I have no garage. I used to have one of those pillows. That might work. Worried about molten lead though.
 
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