Standerdizing Your 1:32 * World War 2 (1 Viewer)

[Plastic General]

I share the opinion expressed by some of the other collectors on this forum who dislike of the current trend of oversized, mountainous bases.
I believe that a toy soldier's base should be as natural as possible, so that it does not limit its versatility, like standing upon a tank or standing within a building.
I never liked the metal bases of BRITANS DEETAIL, or the over the top bases of 21st CENT TOYS,
even the bases of TSSD can be far too overbearing, giving "unnecessary height" to a figure that should match up better with the rest of your 1:32 collection.
Here's a solution that I've been applying to all my WWII figures that suffer from this problem.
Check out the photos and ask some questions?

http://s1291.photobucket.com/user/Christian_Aldo/library/STANDARIZING BASES

Plastic General

 

[Oldallamerican]

What was the glue you were using, I couldn't make it out from the pix. Always looking for a better plastic glue for my figures and hadn't seen this.

 

[Plastic General]

The name of the glue is:
MAXI-CURE - Extra Thick (Super Glue)
You can pick it up at hobby stores, (in Canada) absolutely fantastic!
It's changed my hobby in so many ways, nothing but possibilities!
Now that I have Photo-Bucket, I can show all my new conversions of the classic WWII sets!

Plastic General

 

[Propane & Propane acs.]

Interesting I always shy'd away from maxi cure and other liquid super glues due to the residue left upon drying. If you don't like the residue I use locktite super glue gel (there are two types either works) to get the same results without the white residue upon drying.

 

[Propane & Propane acs.]

Also where do you get the particular basses you use? I personally go the opposite rout and cast larger scenic basses for my figures to match Conte, ONTC, Britains basses but your method seems much simpler.

 

[Plastic General]

Interesting I always shy'd away from maxi cure and other liquid super glues due to the residue left upon drying. If you don't like the residue I use locktite super glue gel (there are two types either works) to get the same results without the white residue upon drying.

I use RUBBING ALCOHOL and a Q-TIP to remove the white foggy residue.

 

[Plastic General]

Also where do you get the particular basses you use? I personally go the opposite rout and cast larger scenic basses for my figures to match Conte, ONTC, Britains basses but your method seems much simpler.

At the hobby shops, they sell 3mm thick, square black sheets, of the "model kit plastic".
*I then cut and grind the big ugly bases off of the figure.
*Cut a rectangular base to fit the figure.
*Grind it into an oval shape.
*Glue (MAXI-CURE) the figures feet unto the new flat. black base.

Plastic General

 

[Propane & Propane acs.]

Ah not as simple as I thought, I was under the assumption you were buying pre-cut bases not cutting them yourself from plasticard. I cast my own sculpted bases so instead of lowering them like you do I raise them to the height of Conte figures sounds like a similar amount of work haha.

 

[Plastic General]

Ah not as simple as I thought, I was under the assumption you were buying pre-cut bases not cutting them yourself from plasticard. I cast my own sculpted bases so instead of lowering them like you do I raise them to the height of Conte figures sounds like a similar amount of work haha.

Na, my process takes 60 seconds!
Also, once the figure is glued its base, it's unbreakable.
Besides, a figure base from the manufacturer, should be as neutral as possible so that it does not limit a figures versatility.
How would your figures now, stand upon a tank or in the middle of a room or street?
You know what I'm saying.
I'll post a short video demonstration soon.

Plastic General

 

[Propane & Propane acs.]

Valid point but I wargame so coming from that background I prefer the semi scenic bases (certain kneeling figures I don't base). Locktite doesn't break either I think it might be cheaper than maxi cure if you can find it.

 

[Plastic General]

Valid point but I wargame so coming from that background I prefer the semi scenic bases (certain kneeling figures I don't base). Locktite doesn't break either I think it might be cheaper than maxi cure if you can find it.

MAXI-CURE is only about $5.
What are you saving, 50 cents??
If you are war gaming, wouldn't 1:72nd scale be more practical?
I war game too, I find when I play by myself, I always WIN!!

Plastic General

 

[Propane & Propane acs.]

I like the greater level of detail in 54mm-60mm and many wargame rule sets like bolt action (which I use) are designed for larger size miniatures. I collected 1/32 for many years now so its more practical to work with the scale my collection is. Locktite is $3.

 

[Plastic General]

LOCKTITE? I'll try it.

 

[Oldallamerican]

PG, ordered a couple bottles (cheaper in bulk postage-wise) used it on a couple guys whose arms keep falling off and am impressed at the bond. So far they've held better than before. I have tried numerous epoxies and Loctite plastic gel with unsatisfactory results. Mixing an epoxy is too often smelly, messy, and wasteful for me - particularly when I'm working in volume. Thanks for the tip.

 

[Plastic General]

What figures were you unsuccessfully trying to glue?
Curious what type of plastic?
A good old fashioned plug is sometimes the best answer, but it can be really tricky.

Plastic General