Terrain putty question (2 Viewers)

[Spitfrnd]

Having recently acquired a Conte KR Rorke's Drift set I am interesting in how I can fill in the figure placement holes in the base of the set without permently damaging it. I was thinking there must be some putty or similar product that would serve that purpose but I thought someone here would know better what might be best for that purpose. Any suggestions are appreciated.

 

[theBaron]

How about Miliput? I don't think it would react with the material that makes up the base.

I've also used-believe it or not-Elmer's Wood Putty as a filler with various materials, like metal, resin and styrene plastic. It takes paint, can be shaped or sanded as necessary.

Maybe even just white glue, too, if the holes aren't too big or deep.

Prost!
Bradley

 

[Spitfrnd]

How about Miliput? I don't think it would react with the material that makes up the base.

I've also used-believe it or not-Elmer's Wood Putty as a filler with various materials, like metal, resin and styrene plastic. It takes paint, can be shaped or sanded as necessary.

Maybe even just white glue, too, if the holes aren't too big or deep.

Prost!
Bradley

Thanks Brad. Can all those be removed without damage to base and do they all dry to some non tacky consistency?

 

[thebritfarmer]

You could also try modelling clay (I think it is called Fimo and you bake it in the oven) colours can be mixed together to get the desired colour. I would probably line the holes with saran wrap first to protect the item.

 

[theBaron]

Hmm...good question about permanence. I wasn't thinking about removing the plugs at some point.

Miliput would be more or less permanent, as would the wood putty. That is, if you wanted to open the holes up again in the future, you'd have to dig out plugs made of either material.

White glue would not be permanent, however, because you can use hot water to dissolve it again. In modeling, there are modelers who use white glue to mask aircraft canopies for painting, because it's relatively non-reactive with the plastic material, and can be relatively easily removed.

You might not be able to immerse your scenic pieces in water, but if it won't damage them, you could drip the hot water onto the white glue plug to soften it, and use a pin or a sewing needle to insert into it and pull it out.

I don't know if that helps, this is a good technical question.

Prosit!
Bradley

 

[theBaron]

britfarmer's idea is a good one, too, to line the holes with plastic wrap, if you need to pull the plugs out in the future.

It all depends on whether you can leave the plugs in or not, and how visible they should or shouldn't be.

Here's a thought, too-depending on where the holes are in your scene, maybe you could stick scenic pieces in them, like trees or brush, fence posts, and so on. Even tall grass, they'd look like clumps of grass.

Prost, beianand!
Bradley

 

[Wraith]

How about some plasticine / kids modelling dough (not sure of the US equivilant ). You could then colour match the exposed area and dab a bit of acrylic paint on it. Should also be a piece of cake to get back out again.

 

[Spitfrnd]

How about some plasticine / kids modelling dough (not sure of the US equivilant ). You could then colour match the exposed area and dab a bit of acrylic paint on it. Should also be a piece of cake to get back out again.

That sounds hopeful, anyone know the US equivalent?

 

[1879fanatic]

It's called PLAYDOUGH!. Trust me, it'll work after you paint it.
What happened to the figures that are supposed to be in the depressions? Mike

 

[plasmapulse]

Won't playdough air harden making it tougher to remove?

You might try the plasticine (not Fimo) or perhaps wax. Kneadable wax used for woodwork restoration or sculpting should work fine. Both can be removed easily. To get rid of the sticky surface, you can seal it using shellac, which in turn you can paint with acrylics.

 

[Tony Neville]

My suggestion (if you not wanting a permenant fix)

Rub onto the are you want to cover either white candle wax or vasaline (pertrolium jelly) This creates a barrier.

Then any of the above suggestions would work but not fix to the base. Wood land scenics do a putty but it drys hard. However if you screen the item first you can chip the putty away and then wipe the base clean.

I have done this with a K&C SP14 it worked well need it winterised for a display then changed it after the photos.

Tony

 

[Spitfrnd]

It's called PLAYDOUGH!. Trust me, it'll work after you paint it.
What happened to the figures that are supposed to be in the depressions? Mike

Good suggestions all. I think I will try the playdough with the vasaline barrier. The figures are fine, the point of this change is to allow their placement on the base at different locations and positions than available if they were simply placed in the cutouts created for their respective bases. I will post some shots when I do this. Thanks to all for your ideas.

 

[1879fanatic]

Hey Sptfrnd,

Interested in how it comes out! Please don't hurt your poor little Zulu diorama, It could be worth beaucoup $ in the future. Let us know and good luck. Mike

 

[Captain]

I dont have a clue if it would react with the base but, how about kids modeling clay? It doesnt really ever harden and can be dug back out if you ever want to use the holes again.

 

[kilted vampire]

One could always use the fimo clay/ polymer clay and then bake it after you got the shape down right,

 

[Tony Neville]

Kilted

Good idea and then you could use scatter to close the small hair line gap that would be between the building and the clay.

tony

 

[Spitfrnd]

Kilted

Good idea and then you could use scatter to close the small hair line gap that would be between the building and the clay.

tony

Ok, what is scatter and where can you find Fimo? I assume it comes with instructions on how to bake it?

 

[Tony Neville]

Scatter is what you call the loose colour pigmented material that you can use for grass, dirt and sand, snow.

All model shops sell it and you just buy the blend of colour that you want / need for your dio.

If you bake the putty as Kilted said after you have moulded it to the base and taken it away you will get some moisture shrinkage. So when you line it back up you will have a slite hair line gap. The scatter effect will blend this away.

FIMO not sure as iam based in UK. We have similar stuff again in model shops sometimes the model aircraft or model racing cars are good places for these kind of putties as they need to repair thier models a lot

Tony

 

[Spitfrnd]

Thanks Tony for the information Tony, also thanks for letting me get by the 666 count.

 

[thebritfarmer]

Thanks Tony for the information Tony, also thanks for letting me get by the 666 count.

The product is polymer clay but comes under many different brand names (Fimo, Sculpey) I believe Wal-Mart sells it if not definately Michaels.