TG Elephant (1 Viewer)

ccdc11

Sergeant First Class
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I had purchased a TG Roman elephant from a member on the forum and unfortunately it was damaged pretty heavily in shipping.
Not sure if I should mention his name, but he instantly sent me a refund before I even asked him to, then told me to try to bring it back to life.
I offered that, if its somewhat ok afterwards I can send him back some money and while he said not to bother, that's still the plan.
I was really excited to get this elephant so while I am bummed, I would like to try to repair it enough so it can be displayed.
I know I need to clean the damaged areas with alcohol prior to the superglue it but is there anything else that I need to do?
And while I am a horrible painter, I need to touch up a bunch of areas on the brown, what color and what brand should I use?

Chuck
 

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Personally I would use Two Part Epoxy (5 Minute version) rather than Superglue.
 
Chuck...

the broken off pieces should fit perfectly back in the area they fell off from...it's not like you're building something from scratch...

be patient when mixing your brown to match/repaint the damaged wood areas...
do a few swatches...letting them dry until you feel comfortable that you are as close as you can get on a match...
again...be patient...
let your samples dry as they will look different dry...than when wet...

I wouldn't touch it up until it's assembled and dry...

superglue should be fine...don't over use it...a little goes a long way...

it doesn't look that bad really...you're a talented modeler...you will do a good job on this...
 
If you’d like to have it professionally repaired, you might consider asking Mike De Marco to do it. Please see the Services section for references. If interested, please contact me.

Brad
 
Thanks Matt for the suggestion. I have a 12 pack of super glue here so...

Mike,
Yes there is very little gap and most pieces seem to fit back together well. One side will be a little ugly but I can live with it.
I cut a chunk of the hard foam it was packed in to fill the inside. Then rubber banded it Test fit, fits ok so I will proceed with the glueing.
Great tip on the paint in steps because I really have no knowledge of the basics and you just taught me a bunch.
And like always... with a pat on the back.:salute::

I don't trust my myself with colors as I age, any sugestions with paint brand and a few colors?
I own nothing but a old testers model paint set from 20 years ago.{eek3}

Thanks Brad,
That is likely the smart thing to do. So.. I am going to try to fix it myself, I want to get the seller back something after he gave it to and it makes it easier for many reasons.

Chuck
 
Mike,
I will buy some proper paint. That is why I want some direction in brands and color. I use the old model paint for my diorama bases only.
 
Thanks Matt for the suggestion. I have a 12 pack of super glue here so...

Mike,
Yes there is very little gap and most pieces seem to fit back together well. One side will be a little ugly but I can live with it.
I cut a chunk of the hard foam it was packed in to fill the inside. Then rubber banded it Test fit, fits ok so I will proceed with the glueing.
Great tip on the paint in steps because I really have no knowledge of the basics and you just taught me a bunch.
And like always... with a pat on the back.:salute::

I don't trust my myself with colors as I age, any sugestions with paint brand and a few colors?
I own nothing but a old testers model paint set from 20 years ago.{eek3}

Thanks Brad,
That is likely the smart thing to do. So.. I am going to try to fix it myself, I want to get the seller back something after he gave it to and it makes it easier for many reasons.

Chuck

I look forward to seeing the repaired Elephant ^&cool
 
I'm a bit surprised
The pieces were not soldered but glued !!!!!!!!


Strong glue, I have heavy pieces glued that way 40 years ago and moved along many time, it's a mix in fact
On both part simple "repair all" from Patex, on the 2 parts, let dry 1 minute , on 1 part add a drop of cyanolite, glue now and old the 2 pieces at least 2-3 minutes in place and tie them for a longer period with strong elastics .

Repairing painting on wood
1 Humbrol of any othe enamel matt snd colour, let's dry 24Hr
2 Oil burnt Sienna mixed with turbentine, let it flow in on the pieces to be repaired and directly add more not mixed Sienna, brushing in the wood grain direction only, don't worry if it flow more, the wait and let dry
 
It went back together pretty well. The front piece has a slight curve to it and I feared bending might create more paint loss.
I will have to live with a gap on the front due to that. I will apply some paint and no one will notice it but me.

There is a few other nicks but as I never intend to sell it, resale doesn't matter.
Now to get paint. Update to follow.

Thanks to all,

Chuck
 

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they sell gap filler and hobby putty especially for modeling...
I don't know the names of it or how it works...
but maybe somebody can chime in with details...

thanks for the pic update...
I think it's gonna look good with a touch up paint job...
 
they sell gap filler and hobby putty especially for modeling...
I don't know the names of it or how it works...
but maybe somebody can chime in with details...

thanks for the pic update...
I think it's gonna look good with a touch up paint job...

Half the battle with doing repairs - is plucking up enough courage to have a go at it. The repairs so far - look to be fine. IF you do get a small gap - the yes - there are products out there to fill them in - permanently.

I don't know what you have available there in the USA - but over here in the UK, I have always used a two-part epoxy resin putty called "Milliput". It works by mixing the two part putty in the pack together. Once mixed - it will begin hardening by chemical action. Just break off a small piece of both putties and work it together with your hands. You can also roll it out - to then fill any gaps. It can be smoothed out - and when dry - can be filed, drilled or worked just as the original metal. Once painted - it's hard to notice any difference to the original surface.

Perhaps an America hobbyist can chip in with what products similar to this UK product is available over there - but there is bound to be one.

Hope this helps - and well done so far. Rocket Science - it ain't - so good luck for the rest of the repair. jb
 
Milliput is available on Amazon. Probably at your local hobby store too if you have one.
 
I use green stuff...
but I concede to Johnny Bach...
as he does way more modeling than I do...
 
I use green stuff...
but I concede to Johnny Bach...
as he does way more modeling than I do...

Whatever is obtainable will be fine. Seen Green Stuff - but never used it. Does the same job - so if that's what's available - then I'm sure it will be fine.

there's nothing right or wrong with repairs - usually just common sense - and what's more important - practice. Like any skill - the more you do - the better - and easier it gets.

The only snag usually, with sending stuff off to be repaired by someone else - unless they are local to you - you have to rely on a carrier. Then - it's cross fingers time when it comes to receiving it back from the repairer - and opening up the package once again!!!

jb
 
I did not bother with filling in the small crack but I did take a shot at painting. I used a sand color then a burnt sienna, then a black dry brush to finish.
Not a horrible job and I can live with the end result. I do like this elephant. Thanks to all who helped me.
The suggestions were a elephant saver:p
 

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Great job on the repair!

Class move by the seller giving you a refund right away and equally class move by you offering to return some cash if the repair went well.

Best,
Jason
 

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