Triple Leg Transplant-Skinner's Horse (1 Viewer)

[Whistlinghen]

Here's a bit of work I'm proud of- I had to transplant three legs from a junk Lifeguard to get this horse back on her feet. I used a bit of #10 copper wire, a pin vise drill, and plumber's solder. It beats the heck out of actually doing something useful.

 

[aujj65]

Emily, it seems you are rather talented and not just with a paint brush - well done

Jeff

 

[glossman]

Here's a bit of work I'm proud of- I had to transplant three legs from a junk Lifeguard to get this horse back on her feet. I used a bit of #10 copper wire, a pin vise drill, and plumber's solder. It beats the heck out of actually doing something useful.

Hi Emily,

This a fantastic piece of work !!

Superb !!

Best, Raymond.

 

[thebritfarmer]

Yes indeed, a lady of many talents.

 

[4th Hussar]

I am impreseed.................do you take commissions ?

 

[DMNamiot]

Hi Emily,

That was really well done! I have made some leg repairs to the older ones too but my method was JB Quickweld and then paint.

Very good looking work!

Dave

 

[theBaron]

Yes, excellent job! Good to see another builder among us

When you say you used the solder, did you use is strictly as a material, or did you actually do some soldering on your joins or seams? And if you did, was it touchy working with the original material, did you have to take extra care not to melt it?

Prost!
Brad

 

[Leadmen]

Nice work on repairing old figures. I enjoy fixing up old Britains and repairing figures. I have a supply to fix up but have not worked on any this year. I get my parts from London Bridge and use to get some from Soldier-Pac before they closed. There is enjoyment in restoring old figures.

 

[beating retreat]

Nicely done old broken Britains should always be restored or recycled never thrown away well done

Regards John

 

[Whistlinghen]

Yes, excellent job! Good to see another builder among us

When you say you used the solder, did you use is strictly as a material, or did you actually do some soldering on your joins or seams? And if you did, was it touchy working with the original material, did you have to take extra care not to melt it?

Prost!
Brad

At a certain point it's hard to tell if actual melding on a molecular level is going on or not, but I used it primarily as a filling material, and dragged out a very thin skin of solder for reinforcement, filing, then finishing with emery cloth (I did test the joints for strength). I didn't use the "approved" method of getting the solder to flow by heating the original material, so I suppose I would get a "cold" joint if it were an electronic connection (I used to be in the music business and had to solder stuff). I currently have the world's worst soldering iron but am saving up for a temperature controlled one. I've not had much success with the "approved method" for hollow cast lead-I'd guess it was because any difference in melting temperature was overridden by the tendency of the thinner original lead to absorb the heat more quickly and melt. The big thing I learned was to file the end of my soldering iron frequently down to the copper (I've read that the tips need to be replaced frequently, but who can afford that?). Thanks for all the praise lads- I'm still blushing! I think I just got lucky-my mum used to say, "Even a blind pig gets an acorn once in a while, Emily.". Cheers, Emily P.S. I'm working on a "Lancer turned in the saddle" who was missing his head from the shoulders up, so I'm having to build him a new neck (who can afford one in good condition?), so I haven't had a chance to post much-an it may put me in the looney bin, where I'll be found muttering, "Death or Glory, Death or Glory, Death or...".

 

[Njja]

Really nice job of saving a beautiful figure!

 

[1879fanatic]

At a certain point it's hard to tell if actual melding on a molecular level is going on or not, but I used it primarily as a filling material, and dragged out a very thin skin of solder for reinforcement, filing, then finishing with emery cloth (I did test the joints for strength). I didn't use the "approved" method of getting the solder to flow by heating the original material, so I suppose I would get a "cold" joint if it were an electronic connection (I used to be in the music business and had to solder stuff). I currently have the world's worst soldering iron but am saving up for a temperature controlled one. I've not had much success with the "approved method" for hollow cast lead-I'd guess it was because any difference in melting temperature was overridden by the tendency of the thinner original lead to absorb the heat more quickly and melt. The big thing I learned was to file the end of my soldering iron frequently down to the copper (I've read that the tips need to be replaced frequently, but who can afford that?). Thanks for all the praise lads- I'm still blushing! I think I just got lucky-my mum used to say, "Even a blind pig gets an acorn once in a while, Emily.". Cheers, Emily P.S. I'm working on a "Lancer turned in the saddle" who was missing his head from the shoulders up, so I'm having to build him a new neck (who can afford one in good condition?), so I haven't had a chance to post much-an it may put me in the looney bin, where I'll be found muttering, "Death or Glory, Death or Glory, Death or...".

17th Lancers? My Fave!!!

Great stuff, Emily....What a great idea to use solder as filler. I used to use solder for the connections and to put the parts together, but someone invented something that could keep a hardhat on an I beam
And the Skinner came out great!!!
Mike

 

[jazzeum]

Great looking job Emily I had a similar situation with an old K & C horse whose front leg was broken. The person who did it for me soldered on the leg and repainted it and you can't tell the difference between the good ones (I have a couple) and the repaired one.