what paint do I use? (1 Viewer)

[craig1985taylor]

Hi guys was hopeing someone might be able to point me in the right direction, I've just bought some britains casts that I want to have a go at painting up what I'm wondering is what type of paint do I need to use? Which makes are the best & will be avalibleto buy in the uk?

Cheers Craig

 

[thebritfarmer]

I think Humbrol will be your best bet for glossies Craig, I also use these over here along with a few from Testors and have had good results with both.

 

[craig1985taylor]

Thanks Scott ill look them up see who sells them near me! I'm really looking forward to having a go at painting a soldier wish I'd gotten around to it sooner

Craig

 

[Mitch]

Revell, humbrol and Tamiya paints are all usable and easily found in the UK from craft and model shops. They are all good paints and will do a good job. They all do some nice primers also. Look forward to seeing some of your work
Mitch

 

[craig1985taylor]

Thanks Mitch, I've found out there's a Hobby Craft store in our local garden centre so I'm gona pop there the weekend & see if they sell any of those paints!!! & don't worry I plan on taking lots of photos even if my 1st attempt doesn't come out all to well.

Cheers Craig

 

[johnnybach]

Hey Craig - glad to see you are going to give it a go. I know you like glossies - so assume you're gonna give 'em a splash of gloss??

Assuming this is so - which Britains castings are you going to do? I might have done some myself (as I have done quite a few of them ) and give you some more ideas of the colours you might want to try to obtain. I don't disagree with any of the options some of the other guys have given you. Humbrol is probably the easiest range to source - but go for the colours you want (or can get hold of) - rather than get too hung up on the maker. Also note that when Matte paint gets varnished at the end - it shines just as well as gloss.

Another tip - start at the head and work down. Thats what I do (mostly) - and try to hold the base whilst painting. You will be less likely to smudge painted bits or wear it off by handling that way. If you do buy the Humbrol tinlets of varnish, number 35 is the shiny stuff - though you may have also seen my latest find (Thanks Guys) which is Tamiya Acrylic X-22 gloss finish - which is just magical stuff. If you can get some - DO - it's just great - and gives a lovely shine. But remember - that's the last thing you do - painting comes first. Have a look through past "painting" advice too - by some REAL experts like Jeff, Brad and Obee ( to name but three). There's some really good advice and tips there - which I have profited from since joining. I'll probably never be as good as some - but the important thing is - as long as they suit you when they are done - that's all that really matters.

Good luck - feel free to come back if you get stuck - but DO have a go. It is a delightful pastime BUT don't rush it. If you go wrong - don't worry - you can always remove it and try again - or even overpaint. The more you do - and experience you get - the better you'll get. johnnybach

 

[craig1985taylor]

Hi Johnny thank you for the advice I'm really looking forward to having a go! I'm not gona rush tho, just take my time & see what happens. At the moment I've picked up 3 lifeguards or blues & royals depending what colours I go for lol plus I got a mounted trumpeter that came with an added surprise when they turned up on my doorsteep of an extra beefeater figure with it! Just enought to have a play around with & see where I go from there.

Craig

 

[johnnybach]

Okay - so red or blue.

If you do Lifeguard - then a good solid red will do such as Humbrol 19 Bright Red Gloss - for the coat. If you want to tone it down a bit - put a "touch" of black alongside it and touch it in. I use it plain - love a bright splash of red. I use Flesh 61 Matte as a thin undercoat for red - makes it cover better and gives a nicer top-coat. You will also need flesh for the face anyway. Incidentaly, Brown 62 Leather Matte is good for shading with Flesh - and is good for leather reins etc. For the white - I actually prefer to use Ivory 41 (Trousers, gauntlets, eyes etc). Covers better - and isn't quite so harsh as pure white. Wite & Black make grey - so don't need to buy that.

Silver 11 and Gold 16 - are good to have for helmet/badge and breastplate. Black is good - I prefer to use Matte 33 mainly - though Gloss 85 is good for the boots. Paint the spurs first (silver) then go around them carefully with black - looks lovely if your careful. If you want a more "gunmetal look" for weapons/armour etc - a tiny touch of matte black with silver makes it darken a bit - specially good for gun-barrels I think.

Blues & R's - I use Matte 104 Oxford Blue - again with a touch of black to darken slightly for the coat.

So that would be sufficient basic colours to give you enough to do either HC type - if you use Humbrol - which the shop is probably more likely to have. Maybe buy a yellow too - if you are going to do bases in green - remeber yellow and blue make a green - though a tinlet of Green 102 Army Green - is always a good standby to have around - yellow will lighten that too.

Incidentally - I never dip brushes directly into the tin. Use a cocktail stick to put a drop or two of paint onto a marge tub lid (palette)Then a drop of the other paint near it - then use the brush to blend to the shade you want. ALWAYS put the lid straight back on the tin - it will last longer that way - or you risk it going hard - and throwing a half full tin of solid paint away. You can buy thinners - to thin thickening paint down - but I just use white spirit - as you need to clean your brushes every time - I use this with tissues to clean them thoroughly.

Good luck with them - and have fun - johnnybach^&grin

I have done both HC types using these colours - so that ought to get you going.

 

[johnnybach]

Almost forgot Craig - when you are in the shop - ask them for as many (free) paint colour brochures as they have. The Humbrol one shows all of their range AND conversion tables for other paints too ( e.g Revell No. 1 = Humbrol 35). So, for example, if they don't have a tin of one colour in Humbrol - you have an idea of another they may have which is similar. OK?? jb

 

[craig1985taylor]

Cheers Johnny that's helped a lot! Think I've got any idea what type of colours I'm gona need to start me off! Can't wait to give this a go now {sm3} {sm4}

Cheers Craig

 

[craig1985taylor]

Well after a disapointing trip to my local hobby craft (nothing in there!) I've took the plunge & bought some Humbrol paints off a uk website should be here middle of the week! Stay tuned for my 1st attempt lol

Craig

 

[DocB]

...Here is some advice from Shep Paine via his book. He started in oils, which required blending, but would now use the new acrylics. Easier to clean up the brushes and he can get the same effect as if he used oils.
You also have the question of how "lifelike" you want to make the figure. "Toy" style requires no blending whereas a museum piece will require subtle blending. You have to decide what you want your figure to look like.
Good luck and happy painting!
DocB