How to make Balsa look like old wood. (1 Viewer)

Isandlwana

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I have cut strips of Balsa to turn into a fence but the effect I would like to give the finished article is an old dark weathered wood that has been left to the elements for a while. Like a dried driftwood colour I suppose.

Can anyone suggest a suitable coloured acrylic be it Vallejo, Revell, Tamiya or Humbrol that may provide the required results?
 
Vallejo 'old wood' colour does a great job.^&cool I've used it and its very good.

Rob
 
I use black paint with rubbing alcohol...dilute the alcohol/paint to the consistency of ink...paint it on...the alcohol dries quickly...
 
Hi Rob

Is that Vallejo 310? I do have some of that somewhere (it's part of the Panzer Aces range). Would you dilute it a bit first?

Mike

That's an interesting method. I think that be worth a try too. Is there a particular brand of rubbing alcohol you use. There is one over here by Benjamin's that seems easy to obtain.
 
Yes it is, I did water it but only with a very small drop, make it too weak and it will lose some of its colour. I very much like Vallejo paints, they are good to work with. Hope this helps

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Hi Rob

Is that Vallejo 310? I do have some of that somewhere (it's part of the Panzer Aces range). Would you dilute it a bit first?

Mike

That's an interesting method. I think that be worth a try too. Is there a particular brand of rubbing alcohol you use. There is one over here by Benjamin's that seems easy to obtain.
 
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there are many good wood sets out at the moment. Life colour do a very good set. I don't dilute the paint at all adding it straight from the bottle. I will then remove some with paper towel and, use a damp old brush to thin it down in places. The wood colours are really good but, its better to blend several colours together as a single plain colour sometimes may not give you the result you want or desire. I also use some of the washes and mig pigments to further add realism to the wood. This can be done whilst the paint is wet or, when dry. Both give different effects it just depends on what your after
Mitch
 
there are many good wood sets out at the moment. Life colour do a very good set. I don't dilute the paint at all adding it straight from the bottle. I will then remove some with paper towel and, use a damp old brush to thin it down in places. The wood colours are really good but, its better to blend several colours together as a single plain colour sometimes may not give you the result you want or desire. I also use some of the washes and mig pigments to further add realism to the wood. This can be done whilst the paint is wet or, when dry. Both give different effects it just depends on what your after
Mitch

Is the mig pigment range a textured paint?
 
Mike

That's an interesting method. I think that be worth a try too. Is there a particular brand of rubbing alcohol you use. There is one over here by Benjamin's that seems easy to obtain.

balsa is very soft and porous...any isopropyl alcolohol will do...if you don't have that...just dilute black paint with water to the consistency of ink...paint it on your balsa...then wipe it off...it will leave a nice weathered look...here's some pics of wood I did with just water diluted black paint...I like to etch lines in the wood before painting to resemble wood grain...the black pigment will settle in the grooves to highlight them and show some detail...just try it...it's really simple...
 
sorry...forgot to download...here's some pics...
 

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and don't try to be too neat and too perfect...it looks fake if you are...rough the wood up...glue in on a little crooked...break it up some...don't space it too evenly...if it's too nice...it doesn't look real...
 
That is a top piece of work Mike. I'm very impressed.

thanks...here's some with the wood done in a diluted brown...they look pretty good...just a different color....and here is a good example of a building done too perfect...it was one of the first buildings I did and I hate it...it's just too neat...try to be a little messy and it will look more realistic and weathered...

make the boards a little crooked...rough them up some...show some knot holes...gouge out some spots so they won't be so neat...don't try to hide the imperfections...let them show...it looks more realistic if you do...
 

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thanks...here's some with the wood done in a diluted brown...they look pretty good...just a different color....and here is a good example of a building done too perfect...it was one of the first buildings I did and I hate it...it's just too neat...try to be a little messy and it will look more realistic and weathered...

make the boards a little crooked...rough them up some...show some knot holes...gouge out some spots so they won't be so neat...don't try to hide the imperfections...let them show...it looks more realistic if you do...

Well, you can't be doing too bad when even the ones you don't like are superb! So, did you not use a base colour first, before using the ink mix?
 
I use black paint with rubbing alcohol...dilute the alcohol/paint to the consistency of ink...paint it on...the alcohol dries quickly...

That's a great tip, Mike, and it raises a further question--what is the look you're trying for? If it's untreated, weathered wood, it's good to bear in mind that such wood tends to weather to gray shades. Look at pieces of wood outside in your neighborhood, like untreated fence posts and rails, or unpainted siding. If you're trying to reproduce wood that has been treated and then exposed to the weather--think of a phone or telegraph pole--then you have to take the starting color into account.

Mike, I like your tip for its frugality, too. You don't have to buy a specific color from some maker's range. If you already have some black acrylic and some isopropyl (which a well-stocked paint box should), you can make a stain for ageing wood.

Prost!
Brad
 
the pigment range are in powder form which you can mix with paint, thinners, water etc or, use dry. They come in a variety of forms from mud through to industrial city dust check out the range. They are really an invaluable item to have if your dio building weathering items etc
Mitch

Is the mig pigment range a textured paint?
 
If we're talking pigments, I must chime in with the cheap, er, ah, frugal alternative, too, and that's to get yourself a set of artist's pastel chalks. Again, you can mix your own blends. Mig's pigments are just that, chalk pastels ground up, with some additional bonding agents.

I bought a set of artist's chalks a couple of years ago, a set of earth tones, from a brownish yellow through siena, browns and ending with a stick of black, it set me back about $10. I use my hobby knife to scrape from the chalk stick into a well on my palette or into a jar, and then apply them with a brush, for things like engine exhaust or blast staining, on an aircraft model. Here is an example on a 1/72 Italian fighter:

ItalieriRe2001_1_1.jpg


I used chalks for the engine exhaust along the wing root.

Or I'll add a drop or two of water, thinned white glue, or dishwashing liquid and mix a sludge, and apply this to replicate mud on a vehicle. I can also blend colors to make others, and I also use ground blackboard chalk for white. I don't have a photo of that, though, unfortunately.

Hope that helps show what's available to you, prosit!
Brad
 
okay...I'm going to show how stupid I am...

^&grin

I bought this for $8.00...

it's a great product...it really is...but it's just rubbing alcohol and pigment (paint or ink)...

cheap and easy to make...it works great...does the job...dries really quick...

I make my own now...any pigment you want...black...grey...brown...etc...mix with rubbing alcohol...

http://www.micromark.com/age-it-easy-gray-3-1and2-fl-oz,7567.html

Brad...nice job on the engine exhaust...very creative...thanks for sharing the tip...
 

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