1/30 Tiger I Comparison (1 Viewer)

Thanks. Will take a look. Too bad the Tiger Gallery Thread she posted here doesn't have the photos any longer.
 
Brad; Ana had a problem posting on that thread and her posts did not start to show up until page 11 of the Treefrog Tigers gallery thread.
 
The main accuracy error is the turret being set too far forward obstructing the hull hatches from opening as can be seen in the great photos posted by Brad of his Winter Tiger. The turret may be over size; but this seems unlikely as it looks proportionate? Most of the errors in the CS and K & C Tiger I's are not as obvious. regards
I see, thanks.
 
A great discussion to date; what problems have collectors identified with the CS and K & C 1/30 Tiger I models?
 
Katana...

With you raising the point about the HB Tiger 1 mantlet I noticed its the same on the K&C Kursk Tiger 1.
Mitch
 
I just compared the KC Kursk Tiger with the CS Wittmann Tiger and the mantlet-hatch clearence appears the same. Now, the CS hatches operate, while the KC hatches do not but there appears to be room for them to open, although it is real close. The Kursk Tiger mantlet does not obstruct the hatches. I have no idea what scale clearence would be correct but there is some clearence. -- Al
 
The K&C Tunisian Tiger has the front hatches open and the corners of the gun mantlet just barely miss passing over the open hatches when rotating the turret. I suspect the clearance on the actual Tiger may be so small that it is very difficult to model in polystone.

Terry
 
The K&C Tunisian Tiger has the front hatches open and the corners of the gun mantlet just barely miss passing over the open hatches when rotating the turret. I suspect the clearance on the actual Tiger may be so small that it is very difficult to model in polystone.

Terry

Terry; the old 1/32 Wittmann 007 K & C Tiger I has the turret mantlet overhanging the hatches substantially. Obviously K & C recognized the problem when designing the Tunisian Tiger and corrected or minimized the overhang.
The CS Tiger I turret mantlet is well clear of the hatches; which open without interference on my example. Given the shrinkage of Polystone and mold wear no two samples are going to be the same!
I hope the New K & C Winter Tiger has the sprockets cut out as both the CS and Honor Bound Tigers have; rather than painted black or no paint at all as on the Kursk Tiger. It cannot be that difficult to do and it greatly improves realism IMHO! Regards
 
Katana...

The problems may be caused by the moulds and this shrinking as four kursk tigers I have been able to see all have the front hatches obstructed by the mantlet. Its not a world problem just something that seems apparent on some and not on others. I would say from all the pictures of the new SL tiger that its looks more like the sprockets have been painted black to resemble real sprockets than actually carved out. Just what it looks like to me.
Mitch

Terry; the old 1/32 Wittmann 007 K & C Tiger I has the turret mantlet overhanging the hatches substantially. Obviously K & C recognized the problem when designing the Tunisian Tiger and corrected or minimized the overhang.
The CS Tiger I turret mantlet is well clear of the hatches; which open without interference on my example. Given the shrinkage of Polystone and mold wear no two samples are going to be the same!
I hope the New K & C Winter Tiger has the sprockets cut out as both the CS and Honor Bound Tigers have; rather than painted black or no paint at all as on the Kursk Tiger. It cannot be that difficult to do and it greatly improves realism IMHO! Regards
 
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Mitch; I just received a Figarti Jagdpanzer IV from Treefrog. The track, sprockets and idlers are all molded as you would find on a 1/35 scale polystyrene model by Tamiya or Dragon. I cannot understand why K & C persists with the obsolete methods when their competition has adopted new and better techniques? It cannot be cost as all the 1/30 scale Armor manufacturers are about the same price point except First Legion. Figarti is the equal of First Legion in Armor quality and detail; so I cannot see the justification for the price difference! I also think the Collectors Showcase Stug III G is equal to the First Legion Stug III F and has more features. The interior detail is very nice. Regards
 
Katana...

Have no idea why but, I would see a change raising the price again. I think there are price variations in the market and CS seems to be the best priced 1/30th scale manufacturer at the moment for what you get in terms of detail and quantity in the box. Looking at the current prices for their AFV's. FL, Figarti and K&C are quite close to each other in costings.

I don't have the FL stug but have the CS winter one and agree with you on its quality though, I was initially wary of the interior detail but, it is remarkable.
Mitch
 
Katana...

Have no idea why but, I would see a change raising the price again. I think there are price variations in the market and CS seems to be the best priced 1/30th scale manufacturer at the moment for what you get in terms of detail and quantity in the box. Looking at the current prices for their AFV's. FL, Figarti and K&C are quite close to each other in costings.

I don't have the FL stug but have the CS winter one and agree with you on its quality though, I was initially wary of the interior detail but, it is remarkable.
Mitch

I got the CS winter stug because it shows the interior so well and it is reasonably priced for a model with interior detail. What I don't like about it is the whitewash letting the underlying colour show through giving the tank a minty fresh pink tinge. It really need heavier and more weathered whitewash IMO.

Terry
 
Mitch; I agree the CS Stug is very innovative. Innovative products with advanced features will lead a market over time as the features are exciting and attract attention if well executed. The CS damaged track and engine detail on their Panther set new standards for product features in 1/30 scale; that other manufacturers will need to offer or exceed IMO. Regards
 
Phantom Warrior...

No arguments about winter weathering and, its a hard thing to get right. Its either to ''white'' or, not ''white'' enough. I gave the CS Stug another brush over to get it more to my liking but, I find many do not do it right (whatever that is) especially, when they winter a base yellow german AFV.
Mitch
 
Phantom Warrior...

No arguments about winter weathering and, its a hard thing to get right. Its either to ''white'' or, not ''white'' enough. I gave the CS Stug another brush over to get it more to my liking but, I find many do not do it right (whatever that is) especially, when they winter a base yellow german AFV.
Mitch

Can you describe what you did in the brush over?

Terry
 
The only problem I have found with the CS Stug is that it is oversize for 1/30 scale. A Stug III G is 2950 MM wide. The CS Stug is 105 MM wide without the schurtzen. 2950/105=28 or 1/28 scale. I think the reason for this is to work with K & C figures which tend to average about 65 MM tall from soles of feet to top of head; which is about 1/28 not 1/30 scale. The CS Panther and CS Panzerkampfwagen IV are larger than the Honor Bound Panther and the Figarti Panzerkampfwagen IV when compared in side by side photos on the forum. Again they seem to be about 1/28 scale the same as the Stug III G measures.
My Stug III G is the Arnhem version. I like the camouflage pattern and the Zimmerit is very nicely done. Most winter camouflage was done on the eastern front. When the Battle of the Bulge started it was not snowing and armor was mostly in factory applied ambush pattern camouflage. Any white wash was rare and applied under battle conditions. I read several debates here on the forum about how prevalent white wash was during the BOB and the consensus opinion with supporting photos was that it was not prevalent. I understand that when it was used on the eastern front it was water based and easily washed off.
 
Terry...

When I get back from hols I will post a pic or two. However, it was just a case of a light repianting of off white paint and allowing to dry before giving it a good dry brushing white and then weathering it up to how I like it personally.
Mitch

Can you describe what you did in the brush over?

Terry
 
Terry; A good method to whitewash a model and later remove it if desired is to rub on powdered chalk. I recall in discussions on the Collectors Showcase thread about the whitewash being too light on the Panther tank. Brian offered to repaint any customers tank who was dissatisfied. You cannot ask for better customer service than that:)
 

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