Building an authentic looking Wigwam for under $5.00 (2 Viewers)

Questions and Answers #2

Question: What is this Raffia and where can I get it?
Answer: Raffia is a straw-like material that comes from 20 species of palm trees and is used in many different craft projects. It is an inexpensive product that can be found in any craft store like AC Moore, Hobby Town, Michaels or whatever is near you. It is cheap but can be a bugger to work with. I will discuss more later on this Raffia material. Do a web search to get more information that you would ever want to know ...:rolleyes:

Question: How long do I need to keep the "sticks" curled up before I can use them?
Answer: Depending on the type of bush or tree that you get them from, generally 3 to 4 days should be fine, but the longer the better as they dry they tend to keep the curved shape better.

Question: On the Frame Wigwam what is the material that is scattered about, in and around the wigwam?
Answer: That material is three different kinds of TEA! Yep plain old-fashion tea. I am going to show a lot more on this but there are dozens of different color "TEAs" that are available. After you finish drinking the tea, dry the bag and pour it out. There are dozens of shades of green, yellows, browns, blacks and even reds. Once again in keeping with my "frugal nature", it is really FREE and makes a fantastic ground cover; the right scale and the right texture. More later.

Question: Are your wigwams larger or smaller than the Jenkins or other third party kits?
Answer: The 6 that I have made so far range from almost the same size to about maybe 20% :confused: larger. I scaled my dimensions from books and other documentation that talked about the construction and how the Indians lived inside. BUT ... remember there is NO right or wrong size as I discovered every size imaginable when doing some research.

Let me know if there are any other questions....

--- Larry
 
So lets finish off this style and see how I did the frame.

When we left off, the Wigwam was covered with one type of material ... in this first tutorial we saw the White Cedar Shingles.


Now we need to apply the outside frame that would hold the "real-life" bark in place and also give a stability to the structure.

Remember the branches that I had you go out and get and then curl into curves and circles ..^&confuse ... so now we will use them.
Hopefully, they are dry and there are a few different diameters. Take three or four of them and paint them various shades of browns, greys and blacks (or any color) until you are satisfied with the look. Later we will dry brush some more texture, but mostly we want to get them 90% of the way complete and not have to worry about getting paint on the Wigwam.


I'll wait while you paint them and it dries ... <yawn> <sniffle> Okay good your back ...

Carefully unravel three or four of the branches and measure the diameter of a location on the Wigwam, then move up a bit and do it again and then again. Cut the branches with the snips and test fit. It is always better to make it a bit larger and trim down to fit nicely. Maybe you might have to move it up or down a few millimeters or so. If it is not perfectly round ... WONDERFUL since you don't want it to perfect anyway. See the photo below.





--- Larry
 
Notice that I had to cut away where the horizontal band crosses the door. At this location you might want to glue or tack it in place until we get the rest of the frame established. I used a very small brad or nail that will be hidden as we proceed.

Now will be a good time to work in the smoke hole cover. I just used a small piece of bark and washed it a few times with BLACK paint. You can install it as you wish. I propped this one up with a stick, as you can see in the photos..

I tried three or four different smoke hole covers based on photographs of the period. The Indians had numerous ways of opening and closing the cover and I did a few if you study the final Wigwams. Your choice or make up a new way.....{sm4}

<><><><><>

Now here comes the tricky part. Well not really tricky, it just requires a wee bit-o-planning.

Take a few of the painted sticks and cut them to various lengths that matches some of the "VERTICAL" curvature on the Wigwam. Place them around the Wigwam (VERTICALLY) at places to your liking. Carefully mark where these vertical pieces touch the horizontal bands that we just placed. Now take some string or Raffia and tie a "decent" knot at that locations .... leaving enough string/Raffia on each end to also tie around the vertical stick ... which we will do in a few moments. Proceed around the Wigwam to tie all the knots on the bands.

When satisfied.. place the vertical pieces back and tie them to the horizontal bands.

Now take some more vertical pieces and place them in other locations around the Wigwam and see where they touch the horizontal bands (AND POSSIBLY) other vertical sticks we just installed. Again, Tie the first knot leaving enough on each end and the replace the second group of sticks and tie those.


[REPEAT going around the Wigwam Until happy]

See photo below.





 
Guess what ... ^&confuse ... we are almost done ...{sm3} Just a few more items and you will have built your first Wigwam. :salute::

All the tough part is done.

To finish up we will need to secure the knots on the Frame we just tied. The Indians use to get tree sap (almost 99% Spruce Sap as it turns into a very hard coating) and sometime a STRAW/MUD mix to coat the knots.

I could have actually used Spruce, but I wimped-out and used a white glue or tacky glue. This gives the proper appearance and will (REALLY) hold the knots forever..

I placed a small amount on a toothpick or large sewing needle and went from knot-to-knot and sealed them ..... yea' a bit crazy but it looks good when done.

Finally place a few sticks around the door opening (and wherever it looks like it would be needed in real life) and glue into place. Paint to match the surrounding frame and weather up a bit.

For the door use you imagination.. :rolleyes: ...you'll see in the photo I raided my wife's fabric chest and found a wonderful woven material with fringe. I dyed it in tea for a day to darken it up. You can install the door material with pins or a small wire that is a bit wider than the door opening.





To FINISH ..... all we need to do is to weather the structure. I used a dry brushing technique with various shades of grey, green and silver and very lightly go over the frame and highlights of the Wigwam. This is your Wigwam so do it as you like and how it will fit into the Diorama. Make it old, like it has been there a while, add snow for a winter diorama, or whatever.


I hope that this has been as much fun for you to read and try, as it has been for me to present.

Please, please let me see what you guys are doing and what results you come up with. I suspect they will be superior to my humble efforts and that will be a reward for me. If you find any neat tricks please pass them on.

If you wish, I will start on the next one in a day or so.
They will be much shorter as many of the techniques are the same but some very different methods.

LKM and good collecting (and building)

--- Larry
 
Great SBS, Larry! I agree with the others, your wigwams look like they've been produced by a commercial shop, well done! You really could sell these, I am certain.

On the matter of building a lodge, have you thought about salvaging the styrofoam packaging from appliances? I save that kind of styrofoam to make contoured ground for dioramas. I would take a piece from a refrigerator carton, for example, and cut a block to the rough dimensions, then carve it to shape for the core.

Prost!
Brad
 
theBaron said:
Great SBS, Larry! I agree with the others, your wigwams look like they've been produced by a commercial shop, well done! You really could sell these, I am certain.

On the matter of building a lodge, have you thought about salvaging the styrofoam packaging from appliances? I save that kind of styrofoam to make contoured ground for dioramas. I would take a piece from a refrigerator carton, for example, and cut a block to the rough dimensions, then carve it to shape for the core.

Prost!
Brad
Click to expand...

Hello Brad and thank you.
I haven't give much thought to making and selling. That, I guess, is why I am giving away all my secrets ..{sm4}. Well, almost all! ..:rolleyes:

Yes, I do save Styrofoam, when I get it, but most of the pieces are smaller. If you look at the beginning of this tutorial you see that I used two different thicknesses of flat Styrofoam to give the Wigwam a bit of height and volume.

Plus I am trying to find a method that will allow forks to build a lodge / longhouse with fairly easy to obtain items that are free or (low cost)
For some reason, cylinder foam is very hard to find ... especially in the right dimensions. But I believe that I have found one solution.

We'll see if it works out.

--- Larry
 
Happy weekend folks. I'll just post a few tonight since it is a day of "rest" ..{sm4}

*** The second type of Wigwam using White Cedar Shingles can be built in a different fashion.

The first was a ONE pass, slow and deliberate buildup of the covering.

In this second approach you make multiple passes from the bottom to the top and then all over the Wigwam until it looks right. You decide which is the best method for you. They both take about the same time and both come out looking like the real thing.

The first steps are the same as the previous so I will not repeat them here. We will start at the point where the foam sphere has been cut and sealed and the shingles are in small tiles ready to apply.

As before start at the bottom and circle around the Wigwam with a "fairly" neat layer. Use the Rubber Bands to hold secure until they dry. See photo for example.

This one I sealed and painted white so "I COULD SEE" the area below that I miss on the different passes. One again I used a figure for scale.

Now is a good time to cut the door opening ... any size and any shape that you wish.



*** After the first layer, I moved to the top to keep the shape in the future. IN this Wigwam I decided to show it with the Smoke Hole closed but I did add the feature to show that it exists (seen later)

Don't worry about getting them to look good on the first pass .... consider it like the "primer coat" when you paint. ..:rolleyes2:




*** Continue to add tiles until you have covered the Wigwam.








*** When you get to the door opening be sure to place the tiles right up against the opening so the frame will sit right later on.





*** Finish covering the structure on the first pass.






*** After you feel confident that the tiles have dried ... remove all the rubber bands and check out the first pass.

No it won't look to good at this point. ...{sm2} ... but we will make some more passes so don't fret!!

--- Larry
 
Here is the finished first pass ....




Now would be a good time to paint the inside of the door opening black.

Okay folks, set aside for tonight and we'll pick up later.

See ya'

--- Larry
 
Good Evening ... at least here in Maine.

*** At the last post we had just finished PASS ONE.

You now need to take a SECOND pass by going around the Wigwam covering all the spots where there white sphere is showing thru and possibly a THIRD pass to add .... Character!!! As always it is a matter of you being happy with the look of the Wigwam.

Since it is no different than what you have been doing I won't go much deeper here.

At the end of pass TWO and the CHARACTER pass then remember to give it a good going over by scoring and grooving the tiles, as before. Also remember to rough up the ends so they do not look smooth or like they had a saw taken to them.

the Wigwam should look like this ......




*** Then, as before you need to paint or stain the Wigwam using any shades that you like.

TIP: A suggestion is to try to be a bit different in the color selection than another as they were probably built at different times, maybe different wood and such. Plus your village will look more authentic if they all don't look exactly the same.




*** After it has dried thoroughly it is time to start to apply the outside structure.

Here is where we will be different than the first Wigwam we built. That one had only a few long structural pieces to hold the tiles in place and act as a structural element. This one will be small pieces that were meant to only secure the bark to the internal frame.

In the photo below, notice that the outside structure is made up of many pieces tied together and holding the bark in place. You can also peer thru the door to see the internal frame on the inside of the Wigwam. Please take note of the smoke hole cover as this is an interesting addition which I did on one of mine.



*** Now it is time to start making up the sticks that held the bark. This is very easy ... BUT ... it does require a BIT of planning and a step-by-step appraisal of how the Wigwam looks after each stick is applied and where to put the next.

There are FOUR different pieces that you will work with.

Below are the four types of stick we will use.


1 - a piece with three knots tied on it, one at each end and one <someplace> in the middle
2 - a piece with two knots tied on it, one at each end
3 - a piece with one knot tied on it, generally in the middle, but ...?
4 - a piece with NO knot

See below




***IMPORTANT: There are three items that you should remember when tying the knots.

First, as you wrap the Raffia or string around the stick, do so in a "X" fashion. I mean (holding one end up as you wrap), with the other end go to the left and the next pass go to the right of the piece that you are holding.

Second make sure that the top of the knots are always facing up

Third make sure you leave enough of the Raffia or sting to wrap and tie another piece that will cross it as you build.

If anyone has trouble understanding this PLEASE give me an email or call (PM for my telephone number)
If I get a call from Australia then I know you guys are desperate .{sm2} {sm2}

--- Larry
 
*** Now lets place the stick with (or without) knots on the Wigwam.

First I would frame around the doorway .... at least most of the frame. You can add a piece at the end if needed.

Then, start to radiate out from the door and the bottom around the Wigwam. Here is what it should end up looking like midway thru.

I always started with a few of the three knot pieces an then started to fill in where it looks appropriate. Make sure that all the pieces are of different lengths and sizes to give is a more realistic look. Overlap stick with no knots or one knot just a bit past the pre-tied knot on the bottom piece so you will have enough space to tie the second knot.

.





*** Below are some pictures of mid and final construction of various Wigwams so you can get the idea.











 
*** To finish up we will do the same weathering and customizing here as in the first one.

Choose any color that works for your diorama and apply many (light) washes and dry brushing applications as needed. Once again, pay special attention to the smoke hole on the top with black; around the door should be dirty, the bottom should show some mud and maybe mold.

Later when you add these to your diorama you can apply more weathering and special material.

NOTICE a special feature ... on mine I added the rope that they would have used to open / shut the smoke hole cover. Little things these can go a long way to make yours unique and special.

Finally, I constructed the door cloth with a simple piece of blue fabric and a quick needle point fabric to give a hint of design.





As before please post any questions on something that wasn't clear or PM me if you would like.


Unless any one has any objections I will switch gears a bit and do the:
WIGWAM FRAME next


--- Larry
 
First ... HAPPY JULY 4th to all my Treefrog friends ..... {sm4} {sm4}

Okay, so let's start to build the FRAME Wigwam.
It is actually the easiest of the bunch, but it will take a few enjoyable hours tying knots ..??.. {sm2} ... OR NOT! But first things first.

*** (1) To begin you need to select a base that you are going to build the Frame Wigwam on.

I tried corrugated cardboard, thin Styrofoam and 12" X 12" Cork Tiles. You can leave it on the base after construction or remove it .. "CAREFULLY". All three worked but I prefer the Cork Tiles since they will be easy to trim and fit into my diorama and the brown looks pretty good to start with for dirt.


*** (2) Next we need to figure out how big to make it.
As is always the case nothing is right or wrong. I chose to make it about the same size as the other Wigwams that I constructed ... but that is just my like.

So, lets get the dimensions. NOTE: that I used a 6" sphere so the dimensions that I give are based on that. If you use a larger or smaller than you will need to adjust "my" numbers to fit. ALSO, there are a lot of flexibility to these numbers so a high degree of accuracy isn't necessary.

First, get a Styrofoam sphere .... mark the very top tip of the sphere. (See photo)

Second, measure out a distance to the left and right of the point. I chose 7/8" on each side or 1 3/4" total since that works for my 6" sphere for equidistant frame members. (See photo) .... We will call these North/South lines

Third, rotate the sphere 90 degrees and again measure out a distance to the left and right of the point. I used the same numbers. (See photo) .... We will call these East/West line.

Fourth, Now carefully trace the North/South lines in an ARC to the base of the sphere.

Fifth, Now carefully trace the East/West lines in an ARC to the base of the sphere.

When finished you should have something that looks like my photos.





 
*** (3) Get the base that you will use, a drawing compass if you have one, a pen or marker and a X-Acto knife.

TIP: YOU might want to double up on the thickness of the Cork or the Cardboard base to make sure we will have enough depth for later building. I used TWO Cork tiles for mine.

Find the center of the base you are using.

Place the sphere in the center and trace around the entire sphere.

Use the compass to make a second "farther" diameter line around the first one about 1/4" further out.

Do the exact same measurements on the base as you did on the sphere. In my case 1 3/4" N/S and E/W.
After you are done it should look like my photo below. The inside circle is the diameter of the sphere and the outside is 1/4" larger.

Chose one of the four points where the 1 3/4" wide opening intersects the circles and color that to indicate that "THIS IS MY DOOR OPENING".

Again, see the photo below.







*** (4) Now measure the ARC for the North/South on the spehere. (See Photo). If you are using a 6" sphere it is about 8 7/8" inches. Remember these numbers will be somewhat fudged so don't fret over a great degree of accuracy.





*** (5) Go get some of those PRE-BENT sticks or branches that I mentioned a while ago. Note: If you do not have any then you really need to stop and wait a couple of days before trying this, so they are dried in the curve position. To try to do one with a new, springy branch is not going to work without a lot of rubber bands and <cuss words>.






*** (6) Get one of the pre-bent stick and a tape measure. We will cut the length to be --- 8 7/8" + 2/8" + 2/8" + 3/8" = 9 3/4"

The reason is 8 7/8" for the ARC + 2/8" to insert in the base on each side + 3/8" safety. Really if you cut in 10" that is okay but we will have to remove more (extra). Then cut a second one "EXACTLY" the same size. These are our North / South Arcs framing members.

*** (7) Now we will cut the East/West ARCs.
The length of these is equal to the [length of the final N/W PLUS 1/2" since it is going over the top of the North/South ARCs. (About 10 1/4")




*** (8) At this point you have one base with the lines drawn and 4 pre-bent sticks; 2 cut to the N/S length and 2 cut to the E/W length.

Now with an X-Acto knife bore out EIGHT small holes in the base where we will insert the ends of the 4 ARCs we just cut. BE SURE to cut the holes within the two circles so we can maintain a consistent build all around. (See photo)

Pretest the N/S frame members by placing the ends into the holes you make. CAREFULLY MEASURE to see that they are the same height at all points. Nibble away at the longer one until they are exact ....or really close enough.

When satisfied ... glue the Two N/S ARCs into the base and make sure that you have inserted the stick deep enough into the base to hold. A rubber band might help to prevent it from springing out. I used a small stick to hold a troublesome one ... see the back of the photo.

Again, pretest the E/W frame members to make sure they just touch the tops of the N/S and fit nicely into the base. When satisfied glue them into the base.




Put aside for a while to dry ... go have a hamburger, hot dog and some grilled chicken and a nice COLD beer!
When dry, TIE four knots where the N/S intersect with the E/W using Raffia or string, seal with a bit of glue ..... and call it a night........



Happy 4th guys.

--- Larry

More later on .. but the hard part is done.
 
Answers to Questions #3

Hello folks ... hope everyone in the US had a great July 4th. Heavy thunderstorms and rain here in Mid-coast Maine so I just stayed inside, ate a lot of food, knocked back a bunch of Seagram's Escapes summer coolers; visited with friends and had a good day.

Here are the answers to the questions that I received.

Question: Can I put a Styrofoam sphere in the center and then just wrap the sticks around the sphere and avoid all the measuring?
Answer: Well ... for the first two (the North/South) framing members, yes you can. However, after that you cut and install the East/West framing members, but now you can't remove the sphere any longer .... without cutting up the Styrofoam sphere into tiny bits to get it out. That is a lot more work that a few simple measurement. {sm4}

Question: Why can't I just cut two sticks any length to begin and go from there?
Answer: You sure can. I wanted my Wigwam frame to be the same (relative) size as the Wigwams that I was building, so I measured the frame to be the size of those. You can just dive right in and I am sure it will be great. {sm4}

Question: You said that you used TEA as a covering under the frame? Is that right? What tea did you use?
Answer: Yep' TEA leaves are wonderful and FREE..... Well, you have to buy the tea and enjoy a nice cup ... but after that most people generally throw away the tea bag or the grounds. (some folks use them as plant food I understand ..^&confuse). I have 25 - 30 DIFFERENT bottles of used tea leaves that I will be spreading around as ground cover. That is saying that is 25-30 different colors and textures, but that is just what I drink. Generally I have Bigelow Tea; some Salada, or Twinings. Within each of those brands there a dozens of different flavors (i.e. colors)

I will do a tread on the use of TEA as a FREE ground cover is anyone is interested, just ask.

NOTE: Any input from our tea drinking British forum members of the types and colors of tea.

Question: Did you use Stain or Paint on the wood pieces on the first wigwam?
Answer: I used Paint. I found that Paint allows me to build up the layers and texture of shades and color at a much more controlled pace as opposed to stain. Paint is easier and cleaner to work with and there a 1000's of shades of browns, greens, grays, blacks, yellows and such. I was also a bit worried what stain might do the Styrofoam below but when I tried a bit it didn't seem to have any effect .... so???

--- Larry
 
**** (4) Let's add some additional framing members

After the knots have dried from a bit of glue it is time to start to add some more structural members. Like I have said many times before, there is no right or wrong to this. I just looked at all the drawings, pictures and such of Wigwam frames and copied the most common.

So to start, first we will add FOUR more structural members. On each side of the North/South members roughly divide the space in half, make a rough measurement and cut TWO more pieces of sticks.

IMPORTANT -- These will be placed in the INSIDE like the original N/S members.
(SEE PHOTO before you start to measure and cut)

Test measure where they will go on the existing frame and, as before, make FOUR holes in the base to hold the ends. Keep test fitting until the two inside member fit nicely against the existing frame and are (somewhat) equally spaced the whole length. When satisfied glue in place and then tie off with Raffia or string.

Next do the same thing with the open space along the East/ West members. Divide the space in half and measure the length for the two new sticks.

IMPORTANT -- These will be placed in the OUTSIDE like the original E/W members.
(SEE PHOTO before you start to measure and cut)

Test measure where they will go on the existing frame and, as before, make FOUR holes in the base to hold the ends. Keep test fitting until the two inside member fit nicely against the existing frame and are (somewhat) equally spaced the whole length. When satisfied glue in place and then tie off with Raffia or string.

When done it should look like the picture below (we haven't top the smoke hole opening yet ... that's next)





To finish this step .. lets start the smoke hole opening. Simply cut two short length sticks (that still have the same arc to them) and place them at the top of the Wigwam. Put a dab of glue to hold them in place for a bit. They should run in the E/W direction ... on top of the N/S.

While it is drying go back to all the new places where the members we just added are touching the existing members and tie off with Raffia or string. Then tie off the smoke hole opening members.

Finally place glue on all the knots and set aside for a bit to dry.

Here is the photo again and how it should look when we have completed this step.



So, is everybody understanding this or am I making it to confusing???


--- Larry
 
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**** (5) Now we will add the final two "main" structural members and then start the horizontal banding.

On the North / South axis we will add two small arcs. As before, roughly divide the space in half. Follow all the steps as before, measure, test, cut and glue the two arcs in place. One will be where the door will be, the other, obviously at the other end.

TIP: When you are measuring and cutting, remember that this is a door so make the height appropriate for a door opening.

(See Photo below for an picture of what I am saying.)

We will NOT be doing this for the other TWO sides (East/West).
When dried enough, tie your knots as before .. but don't apply glue to the knots just yet.

Now for the "HORIZONTAL" bands.

(SEE PHOTO before you start to measure and tie knots)


Note that on the photo the door opening is now marked with a TRIANGLE shape, at the back.

When ready, get a long pre-bent stick and measure to see if it nicely fits "AROUND" the base of the Wigwam. When you have found one, cut it slightly less (1/2") than the circumference of the base so there is no overlap. Position the horizontal band so that there is now a slight opening where the door will be placed but leave enough for tying it off in a moment.

Mark a point on ALL the structural members at a location a short way up from the bottom ...where we will place the horizontal band.

At these points tie a series of knots ... LEAVING enough string on the ends to tie the horizontal band in the next step.

Sorry the photo is a bit blurry




After all the firsts knots are tied, start to tie the horizontal band to the frame ... starting at the door ... and go around the Wigwam one knot at a time. I did half and then glued them ... waited for those to dry and then did the second half ... but I am a coward. When dried, cut away the horizontal band at the door opening ... just a bit passed the frame structural member.

See Below





--- Larry
 
**** (5) Now we will add the final two "main" structural members and then start the horizontal banding.

On the North / South axis we will add two small arcs. As before, roughly divide the space in half. Follow all the steps as before, measure, test, cut and glue the two arcs in place. One will be where the door will be, the other, obviously at the other end.

TIP: When you are measuring and cutting, remember that this is a door so make the height appropriate for a door opening.

(See Photo below for an picture of what I am saying.)

We will NOT be doing this for the other TWO sides (East/West).
When dried enough, tie your knots as before .. but don't apply glue to the knots just yet.

Now for the "HORIZONTAL" bands.

(SEE PHOTO before you start to measure and tie knots)


Note that on the photo the door opening is now marked with a TRIANGLE shape, at the back.

When ready, get a long pre-bent stick and measure to see if it nicely fits "AROUND" the base of the Wigwam. When you have found one, cut it slightly less (1/2") than the circumference of the base so there is no overlap. Position the horizontal band so that there is now a slight opening where the door will be placed but leave enough for tying it off in a moment.

Mark a point on ALL the structural members at a location a short way up from the bottom ...where we will place the horizontal band.

At these points tie a series of knots ... LEAVING enough string on the ends to tie the horizontal band in the next step.

Sorry the photo is a bit blurry




After all the firsts knots are tied, start to tie the horizontal band to the frame ... starting at the door ... and go around the Wigwam one knot at a time. I did half and then glued them ... waited for those to dry and then did the second half ... but I am a coward.

When dried, cut away the horizontal band at the door opening just a bit passed the frame structural member.

See Below





--- Larry
 
**** (6) So we did one horizontal band; simply do another a short ways up from the first.
I chose to place it just above the door arc opening .. but place yours where you would like to.

Measure up and mark all around; tie the first set of knots leaving enough for the second knot; measure and place the second band and tie it in place. Finally seal the knots.


See Photo below. Note the door opening and what I left for the first band.





Rather than do a third horizontal band, I choose to start to do shorter arcs for the next level up. Simply choose a position half away or so, measure and cut / tie into place. However if you like the look of a third one ... be my guest.

Also at this point I added a few smaller pieces for the smoke hole opening.

See Photo




**** (7)

The next four photos show my particular preference for adding the final small framing pieces. The approach that I took was to keep dividing the large open spaces into two smaller spaces all around the Wigwam. During my research I found that the construction was pretty similar up to this point and then varied greatly according to (maybe) the rush to finish do to weather or possibly the intended occupant only was going to use this for a short time and didn't want to make a very strong structure. Carefully look at where and HOW I placed the members.









NOTE: At this point I gave the cork base a covering of brown paint. It probably would have been easier to do so a few steps back when there were less sticks in the way but ..... oh well. If you intend to remove the base at a future point you might want to skip this step.






One more step and we are DONE ....{sm4} {sm4} {sm4}
 
**** (8) Finish the Frame Wigwam

We are almost done; the rest being somewhat optional.

I wanted to place a ground cover in the Wigwam for future use and it seemed like a good time to do it, so.....

As I mentioned I use tea leaves. They are always ... after ... I have enjoyed a relaxing cup, mostly while building a Wigwam ...{sm3}

I first spread a layer of White Glue and Water mix or a Landscaping Mixture off the shelf. I let it set up for a bit and then give a second coat before applying the tea leaves. When I am ready I just spoon in a mixture of a few of the 25 - 30 different colors and textures that you can get from various kinds of tea.

Here are the pictures:




I also sprinkled in a bit of tiny wood chips and other "woodland" floor covering like ground up pine needles or tiny bits of bark.




Add in a John Jenkins or King and Country or possibly a Frontline Indian or two and you are DONE.









I would like to hear back from someone who is trying this to see if they come up with some better ideas or if they are having any issues.
Have fun.

NEXT the Cedar Bark Wigwam

--- Larry
 
**** BUILDING A BIRCH BARK WIGWAM

I was going to do the Cedar Bark for this post, but the Birch Bark is easier and is much quicker to build. The Cedar is the hardest of the lot so we will save that until the end ... AND ... you have experience building a few ...???? :rolleyes:

Here is what we will build .....

In these pictures .... Look closely at the "smoke hole opening" and the stick to open/close it; see the knots and framing as well as the framing around the door and the weathering. All these can be made to what you like but these are examples.

A quick tip here. When we are applying the birch bark DO NOT try to make all the ends lay flat. From the real photos (as in real life) Birch bark will tend to curl so that is what we want.










***** As before I will not go step-by-step of the beginning steps. See the first few posts.

However as a brief review.......

Get the Styrofoam sphere, carefully mark and cut into two piece. If you are going to add some height also cut a Styrofoam base to whatever size works. Seal the Styrofoam with white glue or whatever you would like. Paint white or brown.... for Birch bark I would choose white.

Get a supply of outside framing sticks and pre-bend for later use ... a few straight ones at the same time. Ready your tools and lets go.

Also cut a door opening to the desired size and paint the inside black.


<><><><><><><><><><><><>

***** First we need to get some Birch Bark. I simply walk out into my acreage and pick up a box full.

If you live in an area that doesn't have Birch Trees ... you can send me a "Self Addressed" and "Pre-Stamped" envelope and I will send you some.

REMEMBER ... DO NOT peel the bark off of a live tree. It will hurt or kill the tree. Birch trees shed the bark all the time so there is always a ton to pick up off the ground or fallen braches.

For this Wigwam you only need a handful size amount. Try to get some white and ALSO some of the brownish color.


Here is a box that I got just outside my door. Not the various shades and textures.




***** Grab a few large pieces and RIP them into different sizes. Do not cut as it will look to uniform and unreal.
The sizes should range from about the size of a postage stamp to something like the palm of you hand.

Get the supply of push pins ready. I prefer the ones that are folks stick into maps......

Apply white glue to the back of a piece of Birch Bark and apply to the sphere. Fix with a few pins. The holes are good as they will represent the stitching that the Indians did to secure the bark to the inside frame AND give some texture. Do this for a few pieces.

It should look something like this.






***** After the glue has dried, remove the pins and examine your work .



 
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