Converting Metal Figures ? (1 Viewer)

[Denver]

I recently received a box of 28mm metal WW2 figures.
Since it contains some duplicates, I would like to make some conversions.
What tool is best to make cuts separating torsos and other parts ?
Thank you
Denver

 

[Toy Soldier Brigade]

Jewelers saw with a fine blade.

 

[Wraith]

I agree with Paul, a fine saw. Tamiya do a modellers saw (same principle) which is cheap enough. The only downside working with 28mm is that the cut will remove comparitively more material and potentially detail. Dependant on the softness of the metal, you could try using a sharp stanley knife or similar, using a firm rocking motion. Certainly worth atest cut to see if it will go through the metal.
Cheers,
Simon

 

[theBaron]

I use razor saws from X-Acto. I don't recommend using a knife; you'll have better control with a saw.

I agree with Simon that you'll wind up removing some detail in the cutting and converting work. But you can use putties to replace the detail and sculpt new--cartridge pouches, knapsacks, belts, but also limbs, in short, any detail you want to use. There are a number of choices for putty. I use Aves Apoxie Sculpt, and Miliput, which are both 2-part epoxy putties. You mix equal parts of the putty and a catalyst, kneading them till you have a consistent mix, and then sculpt. Both of those putties are air-drying and curing putties. I also use Sculpey products, which do not need to be mixed, but need to be heated to cure. The instructions direct you to bake the putty in the oven at about 110 degrees F, but I know some guys who use a hair dryer to cure it, especially when used with plastics or resins, which don't hold up too well to baking.

There are other putties, too, like Green Stuff, but I don't use those. Others here in the forum do, I think, and they'll be able to speak to those.

Do show us your work!

Prost!
Brad

 

[Fitzgibbon]

I agree with Paul, a fine saw. Tamiya do a modellers saw (same principle) which is cheap enough. The only downside working with 28mm is that the cut will remove comparitively more material and potentially detail. Dependant on the softness of the metal, you could try using a sharp stanley knife or similar, using a firm rocking motion. Certainly worth atest cut to see if it will go through the metal.
Cheers,
Simon

Stick with the saw. If you drill and pin to reassemble, it is no problem to add a small 'fill' of 'green stuff' to correct the proportion, and the pin will stabalise the whole until the mixture sets. The beauty of 28mm conversions is that some disproportion is intrinsic so mild distortion will pass most inspections. The mass of figures is the focus rather than individual 'perfect' pieces. Have fun.:salute::

 

[Mirof]

The variant in 28mm are counted in 10 of 1000nd pieces
Why going for a scratch build ? Almost everything in all position is existing in metal and in plastic, civilian and military, accessories, building ...
All period, all countries .

 

[Denver]

I bought an Exacto saw this afternoon.
Thank you for your suggestions.