Digital Image Editing (1 Viewer)

Let's finish this segment with a dust demo. I'll start by opening the Sd.Kfz.232 we worked on earlier.

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Ideally the dust should be the same color as the "dirt" in our scenic. Rather than using the color picker that we used during the smoke demo we will use the Eyedropper Tool located on the toolbar. What this tool does is sample the color of any spot you click in the image. In this way we are able to quickly match the color we want.

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If you remember during the smoke demo we want to get two different shades of the same color for the best results. In the smoke demo I used two dark greys. Notice how the "dirt" in the scenic has darker and lighter areas. We are going to use the Eyedropper Tool to sample a dark and a light area to give us the two shades we are after. The first color I select is the darker shade. Look how the foreground color in the Color Picker changes to the color I just sampled. Click on area indicated with the red arrow to switch the foreground and background colors.

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See how the color I selected is now the background color.

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Next use the Eyedropper Tool to sample a lighter area. See how the color picker has two shades of a color that matches the "dirt" in the scenic.

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Now that we have selected colors to match "dirt" in the scenic we will use the same techniques described in the smoke tutorial. Select the Lasso Tool and choose an appropriate amount of feathering. This picture is 4000 pixels across so I have selected 200 pixels of feathering.

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Draw a shape over the wheels that makes sense from a dust kicked up by movement perspective. Keep in mind that where the shape is wider the dust will be heavier.

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When you have completed the shape and you release the left mouse button the feathering will automatically kick in and the shape will appear to change shape. This is normal as the dotted line indicates the area of heaviest coverage.

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Select Render\Clouds from the Filter menu.

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There is the base layer of wheel dust.

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The next shape I draw is layered over top of the base layer and fills in the area behind the vehicle.

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Select Render\Clouds from the Filter menu.

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It's getting there.

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I'll draw one more shape along the top of the vehicle which represents dust kicked up on the near and far side of the vehicle. I use this shape to increase the size of the dust cloud behind the vehicle.

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...and there it is.

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A few things to note here.

I used multiple layers of smaller shapes with lots of feathering. This ensured that we can see through the cloud and it doesn't appear too thick. In order to increase the amount of dust add more layers rather than trying to do it in a single pass with a large shape. Experiment, don't forget about the undo command (Ctrl-Z key).

I was lazy in this demo and skipped using layers like I did with the smoke tutorial. Ideally you want to be able to bleed the dust past the edge of the picture which requires the background layer. In this case there was enough feathering to disguise the problem.

More dust implys more speed. Make sure everything else in the picture makes sense for the motion you want to portray.
 
I'm reading with interest. Thank you for this remarkable presentation.
 
I've had a few inquiries about how I digitally hide figure bases so I thought I'd share the technique I use.

The current version of Photoshop Elements (PSE) I am using is 9.0.

As I've mentioned a few times my first preference in regards to figure bases is to hide them. This can take numerous forms including placing the figure behind a low foreground object, placing rubble elements strategically in front of the base, covering the base with rubble, snow, sand, forest litter etc..The main reason for this is it's a lot less work. In some circumstances, however, hiding the base can't be done convincingly. A few examples of this include streets/sidewalks (non rubble covered), open dirt areas and dirt tracks, grass (from higher angles).

If digital removal of the bases is the technique chosen a few things should be kept in mind. First and foremost it isn't always possible to digitally remove bases. Every picture is different and what the figure is standing on, what is near the base, how close the figure is to background items and perspective all play a role in determining the feasibility of the process being successful. Keeping this in mind during the setup of the scene and during the photography session can reduce problems in post production. Second, lower perspectives can often be more challenging to remove than higher perspectives. This stems from the fact that the figure base has thickness. Removal of the base can leave the figure suspended above the ground in an unrealistic position. This problem is very apparent when the figure is close to a background object (i.e. building).

OK, enough talking lets remove a base. In PSE open the picture and select the "Clone Stamp" tool from the tool bar on the left (red arrow). The toolbar along the top of the program changes to provide information related to the "Clone Stamp" tool's settings (red arrows). The "Clone Stamp" tool works by sampling an area you specify and cloning it to another part of the image. To use the tool press and hold the "Alt" key. the mouse pointer will change from the brush to a crosshair. Move the crosshair to the area you want to sample and left click. Continue to hold the "Alt" key and move the cross hair to place you want to paint over (i.e. figure base). Let go of the "Alt" key. The mouse pointer changes back to a brush. Left click hold and drag the mouse and you will begin to paint using the sampled area as a source. The original spot you marked to sample will move relative to the brush which allows you to pick up patterns.

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I'm going to remove the base of the figure on the right side of the picture. Zoom in so you can see what you are doing. Select an appropriate brush. This can be done from the toolbar along the top of the program but my preference is to to right click on the picture. A box containing all the available brushes appears. The two types of standard brush are solid and feathered. In almost every circumstances I select a feathered brush as this allows a nice blend between painted areas and the original picture and avoids harsh edges. Select an appropriately sized brush to start. In this sample I will start with a 45 pixel feathered brush.

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This picture has a pattern on the ground (cobblestones) which we have to factor into the process. I start by pressing and holding the "Alt" key which changes my brush pointer into a crosshair. I move this crosshair close to the figure base and select a start point to sample from. In a situation such as this where there is a regular pattern I like to select a join where 3 cobbles meet. Click this spot and continue to hold the "Alt" key. Move the crosshair to the edge of the figure base and try to line the crosshair up with the approximate point where 3 cobbles should meet. Let go of the "Alt" key. The mouse pointer now changes to the brush. Start painting by holding down the left button and dragging the mouse.

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Don't forget you can undo (Ctrl-Z) anything you do so if it doesn't look good try again. You may need to move your sample point numerous times to avoid sampling things you don't want to clone (i.e. rubble, bricks). I also like to avoid sampling cloned areas so if you get carried away painting the figure base you could potentially be sampling the spot you just painted. Remember that the sample point moves with the brush and remains the same relative distance and angle from the brush. I also like to avoid cloning any feature that is easily recognized. For instance if one of the cobbles was extra large cloning this can look weird as the same unusual feature appears repeatedly.

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Don't paint too close to the feet of the figure or the feathering will start to paint the feet. When you get close switch to a smaller brush and apply the principles outlined above. in this case I've selected a 17 pixel brush.

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You can now get much closer to the feet without "over spraying".

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Once the front is finished I move around to the back and select a 35 pixel brush. Notice how we have to maintain the shadow in this case. This means we need to sample a point already in shade behind the figure.

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The last thing we need to do is finish the smaller areas where the the larger brushes don't fit. I used a 9 and 5 pixel brush to finish these areas.

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The finished figure

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Here is what the finished figure (far right) looks like compared figures that still have their bases.

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This takes a lot of practice, particularly the shadows and patterns, so don't get discouraged. Also, keep in mind that the final picture you will post will have far lower resolution than the one you are working on so small errors won't be seen in the final picture.
 
Excellent tutorial Frank on how to cover bases. Now all I have to do is get the software and practice . . .
:smile2: Mike
 
A very interesting and informative thread. I'd often wondered how some of the forum members put together such great pics. Thanks for taking the time to share.

Adrian
 

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