Ink washes (1 Viewer)

Carnahan

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Jul 26, 2009
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I want to do a wash for 1/32 figure faces. I know a bit about using paint, but am in the dark about ink. Is there a specific type that is better, and do you dilute it as you would with paint?
 
i would look at mig and vallejo washes as these products are very good. I also use windsor and newton products which also give very good results.

I have used diluted acrylic paint but, I have not tried inks per se with all the other products that have now hit the market. There are also skin tone sets from Andrea miniatures, mig productions and Vallejo which have all the shades and tones you will need
Mitch
 
Hi, Carnahan, I've never used printer's inks, so I can't speak from experience. But here are a couple of threads over at PlanetFigure, that discuss some specifics about using inks:

http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=40437

http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=29608

http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37011

http://www.planetfigure.com/forums/showthread.php?t=36886

You should be able to access these, without being a registered member.

As far as the question goes, of which are better than others, you'll probably find the same situation, as with any other medium and brand. There are probably as many favorites as there are painters.

I hope that helps!

Prost!
Brad
 
Seems there's confusion about whether the question is about printer's inks for metalics or acrylic inks for non-metalics. Which do you mean?

Non-metalic Inks are basically pre-mixed washes that can be used to shade or to fill in low areas - just as you'd use a wash. Some may leave a gloss finish.

See Brad's post for info on printers' inks. Personally, I've not had good luck with them, but others swear by them.
 
I've been doing more lately with acrylic washes, using the cheap bottles available at the craft stores. For 99 cents, or sometimes even less, they can't be beat, and a little bit goes a long way.

Prost!
Brad
 
I've been doing more lately with acrylic washes, using the cheap bottles available at the craft stores. For 99 cents, or sometimes even less, they can't be beat, and a little bit goes a long way.

Prost!
Brad

I think it's all about marketing, profits (!) and conveninece, Brad. With some minor effort and a little "magic wash", we can easily duplicate any pre-mixed colors out there. If you can't mix a simple wash, then ...... step away from the brush, Sir; step away from the brush. {sm4}
 
I think it's all about marketing, profits (!) and conveninece, Brad. With some minor effort and a little "magic wash", we can easily duplicate any pre-mixed colors out there. If you can't mix a simple wash, then ...... step away from the brush, Sir; step away from the brush. {sm4}

Very true, Pat! That's why I refuse to buy Mig-anything. All he's done is to take things that are available on the market and combine and slap a label on it. Weathering chalks? Ha! I got myself a set of pastel chalks in earth tones at a local art store, a dozen colors from ochre to black, for $10, and they'll last me for years. Rust colors? Try real rust, grind it fine, or use a piece of sandpaper to grind it. Mix it with a drop or two of water and Elmer's glue--wait, no! I'm so Dutchy, I save the little bottles of white glue that come with some pre-fab furniture, I use that--mix with a toothpick and apply.

As the Frug used to say, "Frugal does not mean cheap--it means you don't waste anything!"

Prost!
Brad
 
I've been doing more lately with acrylic washes, using the cheap bottles available at the craft stores. For 99 cents, or sometimes even less, they can't be beat, and a little bit goes a long way.

Prost!
Brad

What brand do you use? I've been to Hobby Lobby and Michael's recently but can't find any.
 
Very true, Pat! That's why I refuse to buy Mig-anything. All he's done is to take things that are available on the market and combine and slap a label on it. Weathering chalks? Ha! I got myself a set of pastel chalks in earth tones at a local art store, a dozen colors from ochre to black, for $10, and they'll last me for years. Rust colors? Try real rust, grind it fine, or use a piece of sandpaper to grind it. Mix it with a drop or two of water and Elmer's glue--wait, no! I'm so Dutchy, I save the little bottles of white glue that come with some pre-fab furniture, I use that--mix with a toothpick and apply.

As the Frug used to say, "Frugal does not mean cheap--it means you don't waste anything!"

Prost!
Brad

REAL RUST!?! Never thought of that one. ^&confuse

I like your approach - less money spent on paint, supplies etc. leaves more money for things to paint!

I do admit I have a "collection" of oil pants - many of which I realized over the years I don't need. But, they fill out my workbench and give me a "serious painter" look. {sm0}
 
@Carnahan-sure thing, two of the brands are Americana and Folk Art. They retail for around a dollar, but at Michael's, there's a more or less permanent 40% sale, and those paints are often discounted down to 89 cents. I think they have some other brands, too. These acrylics are in the craft paint aisle in the stores around here, while the water colors and oils for more "serious" painters are in another aisle, along with brushes, canvas and stretchers, etc.

@Pat-I outfitted my toolbox with some oils years ago, Schminke/Mussinis from Dick Blick. I was going to learn to paint flats the traditional way. Ten years later, I still haven't mastered painting flats like the Germans, but I have found the oils useful in other areas, especially in scale modeling. I've used them for washes and for filtering to weather my aircraft models. I got some basic colors, with an eye towards learning to mix the other colors. But I'll probably have those tubes buried with me when I go ;)

Prost!
Brad
 
You may want to check out the series of YOU TUBE painting videos by Dave Youngquist on the MICH TOY channel - http://bitly.com/ozDnr. They feature detailed explanations on painting techniques, choosing brushes, groundwork etc....
Hope you like them!
 

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