Making a Horse and Rider, start to Finish (2 Viewers)

[johnnybach]

This is SO interesting and informative ( and messy)....

I love it - keep it going Cap'n - looking forward to the next bit! Lego eh! what a good idea - and baby powder too!

Ooooh luverly stuff ....... You're all giving me ideas..........johnnybach

 

[Captkronos]

I had read the Lego's tip some time ago somewhere, and ventured out to WalMart, where I soon discovered they've gone up at apparently the same rate as gold since my childhood. I still look for them at garage sales though.

 

[Captkronos]

Okay, here goes nothin'...Free your mold from the makeshift box, then carefully pull it apart. I sometimes use a black marker along the edge of the first half to better know where to start pulling them, but I forgot on this one obviously. Once it is apart, remove your original. Then I clean off as much of the lubricant as I can. I use a utility knife or modeling knife to cut some sprues. I will be pouring this guy through his feet, though with a nice flat fez I could have cut the sprue into that side and it would have worked for the pour, maybe even better come to think of it...too late!

 

[Captkronos]

At this point I actually start getting anxious to pour it and see if my mold is going to cooperate with my mind. I clean off the lubricant, then put baby powder over the mold, supposedly this aids the flow of metal. Then I put the mold back together, put mold boards along each side and wrap with rubber bands. The boards will help the mold hold its shape when the hot metal gets in there and tries to expand it. Plug in ye olde hotpot and toss in my special mixture (usually solder wire).

 

[Captkronos]

Next, time to find out if this is going to work...pour the metal, and if all goes well, the metal should be visible in the hole I'm pouring in, and come out the one I'm using for air flow. Let it cool about 15 minutes, open 'er up, and have a look-see. What you don't see here is my first pour which was not complete, part of the sword was missing, in fact, he had more of a light saber in the "off" position. I tilted my mold just a bit and tried again, second time was the charm in this case. That's all I got for tonight...

 

[Captkronos]

Time to remove those sprues from his feet..."Hold still soldier, my eyesight ain't what it used to be"...Then it is a matter of filing and sanding. Sometimes I use a Dremel, but mostly some little files and wire brushes. Then some primer. I use gray, white, black, whatever I have enough of at the time. **Caution** I lay no claim to any painting skill, so I won't go into any super-secret techniques of stuff I don't know about. I won't actually paint him until the horse is at the same point in the process..

 

[Captkronos]

Next I see a man about a horse. Same process as before, notice I build a pretty substantial frame with Play-doh around the horse. You really only need about 1/2" of silicon around the model, so there is no sense in wasting all that rubber. Also, with a four leggy creature, it becomes very important to make sure you take the time to visualize the flow of the silicon. You want to make sure it will "work" as a two part mold. This is my first try at a horse with reins that hang down into open space. In the past I had them conveniently run along the jaw and neck of the animal. So my biggest area of concern on this mold is that space right under the horse's jaw to the reins.

 

[johnnybach]

Still just as interesting watching you at work Cap'n . Most castings of horses that I buy nowadays, have the reins cast separately - for the assembler to add on when assembling. Have you thought about doing that - sounds like it might make your casting process easier?

Same for the sword of the rider too. Most weapons that come with castings are add ons too. Would that be easier??

Just some thoughts - as I've never cast so much as a fishing line Your fascinated friend - johnnybach

 

[Captkronos]

I'm assuming they do the separate little castings because they use spin-casting, and the rubber they use is probably much harder than this stuff which necessitates pieces fit easily into a two part mold for easy extraction (lay flat in some way). So far I've been pretty amazed at what I can get away with as far as undercuts and such with this silicon. Also, I just like to sculpt it, cast it, and move on to the next one. If I spent the time to cast separate horse reins or swords and all that I wouldn't get much done. Patience is a virtue...but one I lack.

 

[johnnybach]

I was thinking, maybe - that the professionals do that - so that once they have a set of reins - they never have to sculpt them again on a new piece. Same for weapons too. However, I can imagine you are just enjoying doing it the way you do it. I certainly don't have a problem with that - just full of admiration for you having a go at something that I would find daunting. Looking forward to the next parts.

I have seen a centrifuge spinning out new castings - and it IS just a magical thing to see - but can also imagine how it feels to open up a mold YOUR way.

Well done indeed - you have my full attention - wish I was twenty years younger - then I WOULD be tempted to have a go. jb

 

[Captkronos]

Oh yeah, I would LOVE to have the set up these manufacturers have! And you are right about weapons and all that. I do the same thing with my skeleton figures basically. If I ever make a gun worth copying, you'd better believe I'll mold it separately! {sm2}

 

[Captkronos]

Si, Senor, it can be done! (okay, true confessions...it took me four pours, some tiny air vent cuts, and tilting the mold while pouring it).

 

[maddadicus]

Si, Senor, it can be done! (okay, true confessions...it took me four pours, some tiny air vent cuts, and tilting the mold while pouring it).

Looks great, but can you do 4 horses ( for me down the road ) without doing 16 pours That is the trick..Looking for Egyptian cavalry..Michael

 

[johnnybach]

Hey senor - lok on zee bright side - the reins are intact too! johnnybach

 

[Captkronos]

Well, this ride has come to an end. I never promised perfection, only completion {sm2} The first pic is what is left of my originals after extracting them from their molds. Then the completed figure. Thanks for following along everyone.

www.toyboxarmy.com

 

[maddadicus]

I love toy soldiers when they look like toy soldiers in all their glossy and primitive glory. I actually appreciate the style and also your talent for making stuff from scratch..Michael

 

[johnnybach]

And I will go along with Michael on that score Cap'n K! There's plenty of us around who like 'em Glossy - and in Classic Toy Soldier style - and that's just what you have there - and ALL made from your own hands - which came out of an idea in your head.

Well done indeed chum - I take my hat off to you - he's a beauty - and just think - you can make as many of him as you like now!

If I see any old lego at a car boot sale - I'll pick it up - and let you know. johnnybach

 

[Captkronos]

Thanks guys. I just love makin' 'em {sm4}

 

[Naps...just Naps]

Once I have my clay or Play-doh built up to the right spots, I cut the Play-doh to make a nice rectangle. This is when I cut down two small pieces of cardboard to make the other two walls of my mold box. I secure them at the corner with just enough Play-doh to hold long enough while I spray my insulation. Make sure you get plenty where the cardboard comes together. This stuff is the absolute best way to prevent all your expensive silicon from running out of your mold box...but if you miss a spot, the rubber will quickly find it. As a side note, I get every last bit of my money out of these cans. The stuff hardens in the nozzle-tube, but if you buy some brass rod, it works perfectly to run it through to clean out the nozzle so it can be reused.

Hi,
I have been watching your progress and it's been fascinating. I understand that you are mixing your own mold mixture.
I'm interested to know what it is you are mixing and what the ratios are. I have made a couple of experimental molds myself using silicone rubber which comes readymade in a tin with a bottle of hardener. It is very expensive and I would like to know if there are cheaper alternatives. I have used plaster of Paris for flat shapes with no undercut and they work fine and are cheap. But I want to cast detailed soldiers and weapons without it costing the earth.
Your home made mix looks like it could be the answer.
Thanks
Paul

 

[Captkronos]

hi Naps, I use Mold Star 15:

http://www.smooth-on.com/a76/A-New-'Beginner'-Silicone---Mold-Star=-15/article_info.html

It is a very simple 1:1 mix by volume, no scales needed. From there I add my own iron oxide powder just to give more heat resistance to the mold. It isn't cheap, as you can find out at that site. Do this for a while and you get a clear understanding why all the stuff is made in China now ($$$). The day I figure out how to make my own silicon is the day I quit my real job.