MarcT Pegasus Bridge Diorama (1 Viewer)

[panda1gen]

Steven,

You got me questioning myself there so I stuck my head in a few reference books.
The Sten Mk 5 with the wooden stock and pistol grip was introduced in 1944 (as an improvement on the 2 variations of the Mk2 - with metal stocks). There's a photo in there of 3 Ox and Bucks guys taken on the 5th June, one of them is carrying the Mk 5.

So they did have them, but probably only just! Probably doubled the production costs from 11 pence though.

Simon

About the same as an SA80 then......But more reliable?

 

[Wraith]

About the same as an SA80 then......But more reliable?

 

[Chuck Harris]

Re: Sturmtiger INFO / MarcT Pegasus Bridge Diorama

Sturmtigers saw combat mainly on the Western Front in the final defense of the Fatherland in 1945.

Only 18 Sturmtigers were produced, and they did not have any effect on the out-come of the war. In their limited use, Sturmtigers proved to be excellent defensive weapons but were slow and mechanically unreliable, and most were abandoned or destroyed by their crews after mechanical breakdown or because of fuel shortage. Their heavy armor protection forced the enemy to destroy them with heavy artillery bombardment or air attack. In January 1945, a single round from a PzStuMrKp 1001 Sturmtiger reportedly destroyed three American M-4 Sherman tanks located in a targeted village.

Today, a fully restored and operational Sturmtiger, captured by the US Army in early 1945, can be seen in the "Auto & Technik Museum" at Sinsheim, Germany. Another Sturmtiger, captured by the Red Army in the Elbe River area in 1945, can be seen at NIIBT Kubinka, outside Moscow, Russia.

Specifications
Weight: 65000kg
Crew: 5 men
Engine: Maybach HL 230 P 45 / 12-cylinder / 700hp
Speed: Road: 36-40km/h
Cross-Country: 12-24km/h
Range: Road: 100-120km
Cross-Country: 60-85km
Fuel Capacity: 540 litres
Lenght: 6.28m Width: 3.57m w/o side fenders
3.70m with side fenders
Height: 2.85m w/o the crane
3.46m with the crane
Armament: 380mm Stu M RW61 L/5.4 & 7.92mm MG34
Ammo: 380mm - 13-14 rounds
Armor (mm/angle): Front Superstructure: 150/45
Front Hull: 100/25 Side Superstructure: 80/30
Side Hull: 60/0 Rear Superstructure: 80/0
Rear Hull: 80/9
Top / Bottom Superstructure: 40-25/90 Top / Bottom Hull: 25/90

 

[Steven Chong]

O.K. here we go again, the bridge is sitting on the worktable. First question. From the front viewing side, do you want the large tall section of the bridge on the right or the left. My thought is to make the entire bridge support landscape in 3 sections. Right, left and the center water section seperated from the two land sections. That way you should have no problem with the glass doors opening being wide enough to get the landscape through. The bridge will then fit on top of it all on the shelf.
Someone do the math and see if the bridge itself will fit through the opening. ( 6 foot 6 inches long ) by ( 18 inches high ) by ( 16 inches wide ).

Dear Marcus,
In post #41 (in the Toy Soldier Chat thread), you mentioned the bridge model was 4' 6" in length, not 6' 6" -- I remember it as being the shorter length, which would fit through the opening. Comments on orientation in following post.

 

[Steven Chong]

This is the view that gives me the most to work from ... I can duplicate this picture rather well from both ends. I will also add the sandbags.

The model bridge that I have ends exactly with the last steel girder that supports the large motorized section. That means I will be adding from that point to the left. The sandbags on the right side here would be part of the added section and I could add as much as you wish. The six inches that you suggest on either side would just allow me to incorporate the sandbag concept and little more.

When you examine the other end of the bridge, the sandbags are located on the bridge itself. The model that I have extends all the way to the telephone pole where the two pencile lines cross. The six inch addition would be from that point and to the left. That addition would be out of site in this pictue but can be replacated from other pictures. Little more than an extension of the road and a overgrown brush area.
The cement support wall ends exactly where the telephone poll is or where the lines cross. From that point it is dirt and brush.

The building on the back side of the bridge would be dropped for the landscape so that we could use all 6 inches in width for the front side. In doing this, the bridge would be backed up against the shelf wall.
View attachment 2766

Dear Marcus,

I prefer the orientation show in this picture with the large motorized section on the right. I like your idea of making the bridge support landscape in three sections. As previously posted, the width of my display cabinet shelf is 9', so I can accomodate more than the 6" on either side of the bridge model that I previously suggested. Please go ahead and add 12" to either end of the diorama. The only limitation is the 23" depth of the shelf.

Because the depth of the shelf is only 23", I also like your idea of not doing the building on the backside of the bridge and using the available depth for the front side, so the bridge can be backed up against the shelf wall.

Regarding "the other end of the bridge" (opposite to the large motorized section), the sandbag emplacement is on the concrete footing and not on the actual bridge structure. I have attached Brad's photo with my notation showing where the bridge structure ends. I would like you to make a grove or seam in the base of the bridge model to replicate this feature.

Since you have done railroad layouts, I am sure you can also make a red and white traffic barrier pole that is shown in the pictures of the museum bridge model.

View attachment 2767

 

[Steven Chong]

If we build from this side, I would have to duplicate the building that is attached to the bridge as it did not come with the bridge. It also appears that there is a cement bunker in the lowere left. I would have to add at least 10 inches on this end of the bridge to add all this material in. That would include the sandbags on the other side as shown here.

To have the necessary space width wise to build all this, the bridge would have to flush up against the back wall.

On the right side, we can add the sandbags and some extension to the road. We can not see the area that I would expand the road, but the other pictures show that it is an extension of the cement wall that holds the bridge up and some dirt and brush. I can do all of this for you. From this side it would be a more compicated matter and additional work but certainly doable.
View attachment 2768

I answered these questions in the previous post.

 

[Steven Chong]

My preferance would be to add at least 1 foot to the right and left side, give us 28 inches in width for both sides of viewing and have plenty of room for expansion in the future. You would have a show piece that would be a knock out at the shows for the Figarti Company. We could then make additions to both ends of 18 inches for each side and have room for a German counter attack. And of course we could make room for a glidder or two floating over the entire set. Oh well, just a thought.

Dear Marcus,

Agree to add at least 1 foot to the right and left side. Your idea of future diorama additions like the German counter attack and gliders have given me something to think about. I am hoping Figarti will do a Holsa glider because I do not want to break the nose off of one of the maghogany airplanes.

 

[Steven Chong]

Several posts back and forth as I discover some design problems.

Yes I can add the crack between the bridge and the footing. The look that you want will be as pictured in number 46. The big structure on the right. Adding the 12 inches on either side will make a big difference in the overall look. Now it will be a landscape with a bridge attached.

How high is the distance between the shelves. The height is 18 inches now and we will be adding another 4 or 5 with the cement footings. so you have the room?

In your post you say right and then you show the picture of the big section on the left. Your correct about the sandbag placement. It is on the footing as pictured here. I will place it as we see here.

Dear Marcus,

I was using the picture to show the crack or seam in the roadway -- sorry for the confusion. The big section should be on the right as show in the photo that also has the man with glasses looking at the camera.

Yes I can add the crack between the bridge and the footing. The look that you want will be as pictured in number 46. The big structure on the right. Adding the 12 inches on either side will make a big difference in the overall look. Now it will be a landscape with a bridge attached.

With 12" on either side of the 4'6" bridge model, I will still have room to add 2.5 feet left on the 9' shelf for an add on piece.

OK I have the idea. I will post pictures as we go along. Notice that the road on the one side goes off at an angle. With the extra couple inches we can do that. I was worried before. Now this is getting excieting, maybe a building or two on the attachment. First things first though.

... How high is the distance between the shelves. The height is 18 inches now and we will be adding another 4 or 5 with the cement footings. so you have the room?

Thank you for pointing this out. The largest height between the various shelf levels in my display cabinet is 20". I have to consider the option that I mentioned in an earlier post i.e. placing the bridge diorama on its own covered display table. If you had more depth to work with, how deep do you visualize the diorama?

Bridge height is 18 inches and you wanted at least 3 inches for under bridge for figures and add 2 or 3 inches for a solid base foundation. So we are talking 24 inches minimun. If you place any figures on top of the bridge, add to that count.

With 20 inches to work with and only 2 inches to work with would not allow any height for the foundation. Which in the pictures look like 3 or 4 inches about the waterline. Just enough to hang a figure under the bridge but to much for the 20 inch restriction. For 20 inches to work would require the bridge itself to only be 2 inches high off the water.

Bridge height is 18 inches and you wanted at least 3 inches for under bridge for figures and add 2 or 3 inches for a solid base foundation. So we are talking 24 inches minimun. If you place any figures on top of the bridge, add to that count.

Dear Marcus,

I already know the maximum height between shelfs in my display cabinet will not accomodate the height of this diorama. I will just place it on its own covered display table. Since we are no longer constrained by the 23" deep shelves of my display cabinet, do you envision making the diorama deeper from front to back?

Are you shelves adjustable?

20" is actually the maximum adjustable height.

 

[Steven Chong]

More planning.

I just ran downstairs and did some quick measureing, 24 inches would JUST do if I forshorten that building on the back side a little. It would be tight but we can try.

Since we are no longer constrained by the shelf depth of 23", we need not worry about a tight fit. If you need more depth, you can go up to 28" or 30". Let's say the maximum depth of the diorama should be 30" to make transportation easier.

I will use this as a starting point and see where we end up. Keep in mind that if we build any additions to the lenght such as a two footer for building or something It can be added on at your discretion or for a show demo. Anyway we can deal with that latter. I will go with 30 inches, no back buildings and 12 inches or so on each end. sound like a plan

OK on the 30 inches depth. we can do that.

 

[Steven Chong]

The first pictures of the Pegasus Bridge diorama!!!

Here is a broad prospective of the bridge and the landscape possibilities.

View attachment 2813

 

[Steven Chong]

From a different angle.

For those of you who have not seen the bridge before it is impressive to look at. For the preview at the bridge in Chicago, it was to bad that the proposed landscape was not finished. Then it would truely would have been inpressive.

View attachment 2814

 

[Steven Chong]

Lets take a look at this end first. Follow along as I outline some possibilities.
First, upon comparison of all the pictures it can get confussing as to what goes where. The case in point here is the wall where the bridge sits on. In the model in the musuem, the wall ends under the last vertical support post. (refer to post number 46 picture.) Which is where I drew a dark arrow as a location poit. In reality the end of the support wall came out to the end of the styrofoam or the light colored arrow.

Next the ladder is left out of the model bridge completely. On the real bridge it is on the side of the sandbags. where I have it here.

Next I propose to move the line between the water and the dirt back to the left to give us more land surface to work with. Lets split the difference for artistic sake. This will also provide me with more working area for landscape. As of now if you notice the water will take up 75 percent of the total landscape. The water area is of no use for figure placement. We need all the land we can get for the sandbages and attacking soldiers.
View attachment 2815

Dear Marcus,
The placement of the stairway is fine. I agree with your proposal to increase the land surface by moving the line half the distance to the left. The Germans had slightly zig-zagging trenches topped with sandbags and barbed wire which paralleled the canel -- starting where you have written the word "dirt" in the lower right portion and going south. Can you add a portion on this side of the bridge and more (descripted in next post) on the other side?

 

[desk11desk12]

Gees,

When is this going to be built already, the suspense is killing me. LOL

Carlos

 

[Steven Chong]

On this side the water eats up most of the landscape on the front side of the bridge. Here I propose to move the water line between the water and the dirt all the wayto the right where the doted line is. For the same reasons as the other side. More land space.

Next, notice where the landscape ends at the 1 foot mark. I propose that we extend it back all the way to the end of the styroafoam. Where I have criss-crossed it off. The styrafoam shown here is two inches high. I will increase it to 4 inches high to make the bridge high enough to figures under it. That would be simiular to the model bridge as shown in post 46.

Any extensions can be added later if you chose to do them from either side.
View attachment 2822

Dear Marcus,
I agree, move the water line to the right where the dotted line is and add the criss-crossed section. On this side, please add a trench topped with sandbags and barbed wire starting just to the right of the word "Road" and following the faint line in the foam down and above the sandbag emplacement to the right of the word "Dirt." The trenches should be deep enough where the shoulders of a 1/32 figure are even with the top of the sandbags. Figarti only had masters of their British glider troops at the Chicago show, so I do not have any figures you can place on the diorama to satisfy the Admin person.

 

[Al Hardman]

Hi Steve
Great model
have you eny plans or know where i can get some?

Regards Al

keep up the good work

 

[Steven Chong]

Hi Steve
Great model
have you eny plans or know where i can get some?

Regards Al

keep up the good work

Dear Al,

Welcome to the forum! I do not have any plans. The Pegasus Bridge model was a prototype made by Figarti. They plan to make the bridge available for collectors. As for the work, I am just the client. Marcus Thosen is the person making the diorama. He posts the step-by-step program of his commissions on the Toy Soldier Chat forum and gave me permission to post them here on Treefrog.

 

[Steven Chong]

More design issues.

I was not two well connected yesterday, I got distracted. Here are the changes that I think that you want. I left the bridge in the basement for safety sake. If you compare pictures of post number 74, I think that you can see the changes.

I moved the water line to the left for the addition of more dirt and have added the trench. The sandbags position will be facing the right side of the trench as seen here protecting the land approach. The seperation between the water and the dirt will run through the E in the word water. In 20 minutes I'll be hard at work on it. I am in hopes that the soldiers sitting on the sandbag count for three soldiers. to satisfy the admin person.
View attachment 2824

 

[Steven Chong]

Starting to cut into the foam.

Here is my proposal for the right side. The bridge fits into the recess. The cut away section is the water and I propose to make the trench L shaped with a step up towards the bridge. Do you want a continuation of the trench on the other side of the road? Notice that I drew in a garbage dump that sits on the hill side for barrels, boxes and whatever that ends up in the river. A artistic ploy that we can use. The hill can not be used for soldiers anyway.

Do I slope the dirt area towards the viewer or do you want a straight edge as shown here. I suggest the sloped edge or it will look like it has been cut off at the edge. You can see how I did Bills Landscape from the front. It gives it a finished look.

As per the actural picture of the area there is a road side curb along the road. The dirt area is mostly flat with no trees. If you wish we can add several of soldiers covering material. The fence row between the gliders and the bridge is to far away to be featured here.
View attachment 2825

Dear Marcus,
I would like the trench to be more diagonal, and more to the left as shown by the comments that I added to your picture. I also do not like the garbage dump idea -- its location detracts from the bridge. I would like to keep a straight end on the edge of the diorama so future diorama pieces can be added. In addition, the sandbag emplacement should be circular as shown by the photos in the next two posts (You can only display one photo per post in Toy Soldier Chat). I think they were intended to protect against attacks from both the land side and from the other side of the bridge. These photos also seem to show that the trenches had sandbags on both the water and land side.
View attachment 2826
The following two posts are pictures of a 1/72 diorama that I found on the internet. Notice the stairway was not modeled. I think there are sandbags on both sides of the trench and the sandbag emplacement is circular. There is also an entrenched German anti-tank gun which I will want in a future add-on piece.
View attachment 2827
View attachment 2828

 

[Steven Chong]

Now for the left side.

This is the left side without the bridge. I moved the water, dirt line to the right and added the trench system. Notice that the trench will appear on both sides of the road. Is the position of the trench correct. The sandbags will be positioned on the right side of the trench protecting the water approach.
View attachment 2829

As for the left side, I want some separation between the sandbag emplacement (circular) and the trench, so I want to delete the upper trench. The position of the lower trench looks O.K., but I need to see the position of the recess of the bridge before I can make a final decision -- just do the recess first. Again, sandbags on both sides of the trench.
View attachment 2830

 

[Steven Chong]

Marcus is back to work.

The weather is crumby out side so inside pictures. This is the front section of the right hand side with the ladder.

View attachment 3459