I'd buy some
Painted as New Orleans Grays.
See Conte site , http://conteco.com/TheStore/Alamo/Metalsets.htm ALA 221 New Orleans Grays
You could leave the guy with the bandaged head the way he is, as far as headwear is concerned anyway.
Okay, that would be cool too. I was going to have him impaling somebody on the bayonet, but I'm flexible.
KV:
The Santa mold is great. I consists of 3 parts, Santa, bag of toys, and right arm. All pieces go together flawlessly. Throught trial and error, I've found the best way to paint him is by assembling body/arm and painting that, or at least his back and head, leaving a patch clear on his back around the slot where the toy sack fits. Paint the toys (presents, doll, stuffed bear, toy horn) and after, epoxy the pack to his back. Once the pack is installed, it's very difficult to reach the contents and one can do a better job (painting ribbons on the packages, the face on the doll and the Teddy bear) than if it's wholly assembled first then painted afterward.
Gneisenau
KV:
Here's a couple pics (I think they uploaded) I just took of the ARR I painted this spring
Gneisenau
KV:
The kneeling/firing figure also lends himself to being done as Alabama Red Rover. Do linen (or butter cream) for the pants, red for the coat, and ghost grey (or equiv...I like because it's not as harsh as white) for the trim along the cuffs, bottom of jacket, collar and facings, hat (along brim) and beneath.
This is a great source..Uniforms of the Alamo and the Texas Revolution and the Men Who Wore Them
Bruce Marshall
Gneisenau
Thanks Pat/Michael...
Always good to have a home. We know They Are Out There..fellow casters. The trick is to grope around and find them and bring them to here before one is arrested.... I hope to find other casters and hopefully get some sort of consensus. I'm on good relations with Rich Dutkn but sometimes proposing new molds can be difficult if he doesn't perceive a "demand" for the mold. Regardless of whether we think it's a good idea or not. Personally, unless the casting is so ridiculous as to wonder why I would buy the mold, I will paint anything and am more than willing to learn about any period to support my search for the "authentic historical look." Together, we can make suggestions for what *we* would like to see. From talking to Rich Campbell (new owner of Dunken Co.), I have learned that PA supports the 40 mm line because it's easier for beginners. While we're all beginners at one time (If I could relate some horror stories...!), we learn. But sometimes it seems as if the companies that supposedly cater to us, won't *listen* to us. It would be good to give real suggestions before we're stuck with more Napoleonic card game molds and the 95th Reloaders (Rifles). Toy soldiers work best at home cast when one can create the mass line of firing, marching, charging. Sure, reloading is great but don't *lead* with it!
On another note..was cleaning the Room today. I found the mold from Li'l Army's original ACW Union Infantry marching. He's a trifle small. Compared to Union Officer marching (LA-1032) it's as if the officer is leading the 35th Pygmy Regiment.
Gregg